How do you prefer your bevels for use?

How do you use your Busse?

  • As it comes from the factory

    Votes: 7 16.7%

  • Sharpen the secondary bevel

    Votes: 2 4.8%

  • Knock the shoulders back and sharpen the secondary bevel

    Votes: 16 38.1%

  • Re-profile primary and secondary bevels

    Votes: 17 40.5%
  • Total voters
    42
xxwarderxx

xxwarderxx

Joined
Mar 27, 2015
Messages
3,025
I thought it would be interesting to see how many modify their Busse's after receiving them regarding the primary and secondary bevels.

Not concerned with finish. Coated, stripped, satin. Just want to get feedback on how many owners are okay with the stout, tough factory bevels compared to re-working to some degree to improve cutting performance.

Applies to Busses meant for use only and not to look pretty on a shelf (nothing wrong with that, but focusing on what edge owners deem acceptable for use)


Note - Wasn't sure if I should separate knocking the shoulders back from re-profiling, so I'll separate the categories to consider re-profiling more in depth work over knocking the shoulders back on the secondary bevel.
 
I was initially doing just a convex grind on the secondary bevels, but since I read about the illustrious Ban Tang's method, I have been doing full height convex reprofiling. Recently did my SR101 Boss Jack that way and came out awesome! Really happy with this now, almost (not quite, but close 2nd) better than my BRKT Bravo 1.5.
 
I could only vote for the Busse I find useful. It's a wonder. The early ones I bought -Satin Jack; Badger Attack - need to be sharpened and removal of the tick coating if they are to be useful.
 
I voted reprofile the primary and secondary, but I have 'kin in all four states. Most are at least reprofiled though.
 
resinguy said:
Where is Ban's method described? Would like to read it.
Click to expand...

Use the search feature-

I emailed it to myself- so I have it saved-

"
Rick,

One of these days I will do a sharpening video or maybe a photo essay. I have taught my technique to a few people including Jeremy Horton, Mrpink, Norcalblacktail, and few others.

The process is quite easy if you are adept with a belt grinder.

Things you will need

120 grit belt
220 grit belt
Coarse Scotchbrite belt
Fine Scothbrite belt
Leather Belt and Green Compound.

Sharpen a V edge using the 120 grit then follow it with a 220 grit belt and knock off majority of the shoulder.

Use the coarse scotchbrite to continue knocking off the shoulder and slowly form the convex. A coarse scotchbrite is good for this because it cuts fairly decently and also naturally convex the edge because it is unstructured. Try doing a true V edge with one and you will see that it has the tendency to round the edges. Keep at it with the coarse scotchbrite until you are satisfied with the convex geometry which will vary from large knives to smaller knives.

NOTE: Be careful with this part because a decent amount of heat can be generated from this portion of the sharpening. Start off slow to get the hang of it and have some water handy to cool the blade. This is the slowest and also the most important step.

Follow the above process with the fine scotcbrite.

Finally, strop the hell out of it with the leather belt using green compound and it should pop hair like nobody's business. I start off using alot of pressure to do the majority of the polishing. Then I slowly finesse the alternating strokes towards to the end to prevent myself from increasing the angle and rolling over the edge.

It takes me on average of 20-30mins to sharpen a knife this way initially. But once set it in... I usually just have to hit it with the leather belt for a few seconds to retouch the blade.

Hope this helps.
Last edited by Ban; 12-24-2010 at 01:50 AM."
 
Well --- when you truly reprofile the edge (meaning you reduce the edge angle and the thickness), you're essentially moving from the secondary to the primary.

When I sharpen and reprofile, my edge angles are always 19 degrees (I find it to be a really solid angle for tough use and without needing constant honing/maintenance). The 19 degree angle creates a new bevel with greater bevel height. The reason why the height increases is due to the primary having "too much" metal behind it to support a more acute edge angle.

Busse Edges from the factory are nowadays much much better than before. They're solid.

I personally prefer to fully reprofile to get a more aggressive/acute edge and to unearth the virgin steel that hasn't been belt grinded.
 
Rob_Mob said:
Well --- when you truly reprofile the edge (meaning you reduce the edge angle and the thickness), you're essentially moving from the secondary to the primary.
Click to expand...

Right. Please read as: "Re-profile affecting primary and secondary bevels."

It does not seem like I am able to edit the actual wording of the poll choices.
 
I usually first give a full on sharpen with the factory edge geometry. The bevel is bigger than I like, so it's easier to keep consistent with plates and stones.

Then I knock the crap off of the secondary bevel.
 
I've only had a few, but the work sharp has had to come out on all of them except the AMS. Someone else had already hit that one. I liked my ASHBM, more than my NMFBM, but the grinds from the factory on both were nothing short of abysmal.
 
I've reprofiled the edge of all of my keepers to 20 per side on the KME. Then I use the Work Sharp or 1x30 to blend the primary and secondary bevels together a bit. Mostly just rounding the shoulder off. I don't go too dramatic, just a scotch-brite then leather belt when I use the 1x30, the 6k grit (I think, the blue belt) on the Work Sharp. Not convexing really, just softening the transition.
 
The vast majority of the my Busse knives have come razor sharp and not over thick behind the edge and the O2W knives have been pretty darn good. I'll use the work sharp on larger blades, if needed.
 
I always give new Infi a similar treatment: Like Rob above, I have found 19 or 20 dps to be durable and sharp. I can chop wood but also prepare food if I choose. Edc type stuff like cardboard and tape are no prob. either.

Mainly these days I use either a freehand setup w/ 3m wetordry (and a paper cutout of the preferred angle for guidance) or the WSKO w/ the blade grinder attachment. Both methods give fine results. I used to go for an extremely high shine finish--8k or better-- but these days stopping the sharpening progression at 600 grit followed by a careful stropping on balsa w/ 1micron CBN or diamond spray give a very nice edge with a little bite. On the WS I stop at the x22 belt and then do a hand strop on balsa.
 
With the exception of my BT6 I have had all of my Busse knives completely reground.
 
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