How do you prep your balsa strop?

flatblackcapo · Apr 18, 2018

I just picked up my first balsa strop and noticed that it is not as smooth as I expected it to be. Should I sand it to smooth out the cross cut pattern ? How do you guys go about getting you balsa strops ready for service?

I hope you can see what I am talking about. It is dark out so this is the best I could do for tonight.

Obsessed with Edges · Apr 18, 2018

If the balsa is thin, as is the case with many hobbyist-shop samples of it, I'd not worry too much about trying to sand it or otherwise removing surface material to smooth it out; you'll quickly remove too much of it's thickness.

On the other hand, if it's thick enough to surrender some surface material, a block plane can be used to very quickly smooth it out. If you're not a woodworking hobbyist, this may not be an option (planes are tedious to tune up for cleanly shaving wood, in novice hands; that includes mine).

Barring all else though, a wood block with some medium/coarse-grit sandpaper (for wood) wrapped around it can be the easiest solution. Something in the 100 - 220 grit range would work for that. Balsa isn't very tight-grained, so it won't necessarily get real smooth, no matter how much you sand it. But the rip-sawn marks across the grain can be removed easily, by sanding with a block.

flatblackcapo · Apr 18, 2018

Obsessed with Edges said:
If the balsa is thin, as is the case with many hobbyist-shop samples of it, I'd not worry too much about trying to sand it or otherwise removing surface material to smooth it out; you'll quickly remove too much of it's thickness.

On the other hand, if it's thick enough to surrender some surface material, a block plane can be used to very quickly smooth it out. If you're not a woodworking hobbyist, this may not be an option (planes are tedious to tune up for cleanly shaving wood, in novice hands; that includes mine).

Barring all else though, a wood block with some medium/coarse-grit sandpaper (for wood) wrapped around it can be the easiest solution. Something in the 100 - 220 grit range would work for that. Balsa isn't very tight-grained, so it won't necessarily get real smooth, no matter how much you sand it. But the cross-cut saw marks at least can be removed easily by sanding with a block.

Thanks, this strop is 1/2" thick so I have enough to smooth it out. I was just concerned that leaving it rough would effect my edge quality.

basetta70 · Apr 18, 2018

Go 220 light passes Then with a wet sponge make couple of passes, dry it naturale and finish with a 600 light.

ToddS · Apr 18, 2018

basetta70 said:
Go 220 light passes Then with a wet sponge make couple of passes, dry it naturale and finish with a 600 light.

In my experience this produces a very ineffectual strop. The loose fibers on the surface are critical. For the same reason you shouldn't plaster the surface, just make dots or lines of abrasive.

HeavyHanded · Apr 18, 2018

I'd use a jack plane to flatten it and then scuff it up with a piece of hacksaw blade - irregular circular pattern or lengthwise scratches, but not deep.

flatblackcapo · Apr 19, 2018

ToddS said:
In my experience this produces a very ineffectual strop. The loose fibers on the surface are critical. For the same reason you shouldn't plaster the surface, just make dots or lines of abrasive.

HeavyHanded said:
I'd use a jack plane to flatten it and then scuff it up with a piece of hacksaw blade - irregular circular pattern or lengthwise scratches, but not deep.

So, it should be slightly fury ? Is this just to hold the compound or is there another reason?

ToddS are you saying not to put a thin even coat of abrasive and instead to apply a interrupted pattern?

ToddS · Apr 19, 2018

The surface shouldn't be furry like rough cut pine but definitely not glassy. After you flatten it you can just sand across the grain with 180 grit or so. I can imagine that scratching with a hacksaw blade would also be fine.

If you were using a paste then covering 1/3 of the surface is ample. A spray isn't so critical because the water raises the grain anyway.

flatblackcapo · Apr 19, 2018

ToddS said:
The surface shouldn't be furry like rough cut pine but definitely not glassy. After you flatten it you can just sand across the grain with 180 grit or so. I can imagine that scratching with a hacksaw blade would also be fine.

If you were using a paste then covering 1/3 of the surface is ample. A spray isn't so critical because the water raises the grain anyway.

Thank you.

Wowbagger · Apr 19, 2018

Sand paper ? ? ?
What's that ? ? ?

One shaving is ~ .001 inch to .002"

No finish . . . bare wood (the second one is end grain) :

Wowbagger · Apr 19, 2018

Oh now you want it ALL !?
smooth, flat but textured
sheeeze
(that's easy) Link >>>>>> Toothing plane blade.

Wowbagger · Apr 19, 2018

Any of these planes would do it (no need for a Jack which is huge and unwieldy for such a small piece of wood).
Just for the sake of those who are interested; the first plane I showed above (the all wooden one) is a hand made plane worth about $800 US made by a national treasure craftsman here in the US (he is no longer taking orders so I was lucky to get it). At the time I bought it he had at least a five year back log.
I don't have any knives worth that much but you can see where my money goes. I didn't pay that much for it (bought directly from him though and I'm the only owner of it). The value skyrocketed when he stopped taking orders.

These are all much more readily available and more appropriated for the size of work. Price varies from one to two hundred dollars . . . except for the rusty one I found in my parents attic after they passed . . . that one can be had from Home Depot for ~$50 . . . maybe less.

flatblackcapo · Apr 19, 2018

Wowbagger said:
Sand paper ? ? ?
What's that ? ? ?

One shaving is ~ .001 inch to .002"
View attachment 890936

No finish . . . bare wood (the second one is end grain) :
View attachment 890940
View attachment 890942

Wowbagger said:
Oh now you want it ALL !?
smooth, flat but textured
sheeeze
(that's easy) Link >>>>>> Toothing plane blade.

Wowbagger said:
Any of these planes would do it (no need for a Jack which is huge and unwieldy for such a small piece of wood).
Just for the sake of those who are interested; the first plane I showed above (the all wooden one) is a hand made plane worth about $800 US made by a national treasure craftsman here in the US (he is no longer taking orders so I was lucky to get it). At the time I bought it he had at least a five year back log.
I don't have any knives worth that much but you can see where my money goes. I didn't pay that much for it (bought directly from him though and I'm the only owner of it). The value skyrocketed when he stopped taking orders.

These are all much more readily available and more appropriated for the size of work. Price varies from one to two hundred dollars . . . except for the rusty one I found in my parents attic after they passed . . . that one can be had from Home Depot for ~$50 . . . maybe less.

View attachment 890957

Wowbagger, you craaaaazy, dog!

Thanks for the info.

Wowbagger · Apr 20, 2018

flatblackcapo said:
Wowbagger, you craaaaazy, dog!

sorry . . . I'm all happy with my latest purchase . . . Para2 Camo DLC. . . . so I may be over doing things a bit.
It turned out to be the best out of the box Para2 of the four I have.

And since it is S30V it looks like I may be buying a balsa strop for my Edge Pro to put some of my Diamond paste on. It may be the best way to touch up this daily work knife.

Looks like I need to learn about balsa strops. I've had one in my save for later shopping cart all winter.
I've not spent any significant time with S30V so I don't have much practical working knowledge of it; just what I have read here.