How do you profile your blades - and what steel?

M

Michael Bennett

Joined
Mar 2, 1999
Messages
666
Do you use:

hacksaw by hand
file by hand
band saw
disc grinder (such as a angle grinder)
belt grinder
water/laser/plasma cutter
torch
dremel
hot cut on a forge

or what?

I'm currently profiling my 1095 blades with a Makita angle grinder with a 4 1/2" x 1/16" disc. I was using a dremel for the first few with a fiber reinforced disc. I'm working by hand, as opposed to using a cutoff saw type jig. It works, but lacks precision or I lack precision. 8)

I tried a hacksaw and it didn't work at all.

I'm curious what most use and what gives the performance.

Mike
 
I have an el-cheapo Jet metal cutting bandsaw that I cut the big pieces away with, and then I profile to the scribe lines with a Burr King variable speed 2X72 belt grinder.

I can do the whole thing with the belt grinder, but cutting first keeps the steel cooler and creates less dust.

I use mostly ATS-34, but also steel like 3V.

For $170 (+ $17 for a really good metal cutting blade) you can get one of these band-saws and it would really save you some time.

My Jet was $250 on sale, but Harbor Freight and Enco sell the same saw, and have both sold it for $170. I know an EC Blackstone bi-metal bandsaw blade will cut 1095 just fine.

Just something to think about.

Personally, when it's stock removal, getting the rough stages of the profiling done is USUALLY very dull, rudimentary work, so speeding that up is worth the money to me.
smile.gif


Nick

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 01-22-2001).]
 
For my first few, I cut away the big pieces with a hacksaw and then filed to the lines by hand. I also hand filed the bevels. When the carpal tunnel syndrome got annoying enough, I broke down. Now blades get rough profiled on the metal cutting bandsaw (same cheap one as everyone else) and then down to the scribe lines with the 2 x 72 Bee Variable. I'm using mostly either ATS34 or 440C.

Rob!
 
I still use a hacksaw to cut steel to size, and then profile with 40 grit 3M 977. lots of time and heat. i need to get a metal cutting bandsaw.
 
I am using the Harbor Freight el cheapo. I used to use the hacksaw to cut to length, but that is rough on belts and a waste of time. I use ATS-34, BG 42, S90V, and even some D2 that I picked up cheap.

Brett
 
I use mostly recycled materials like leaf springs (5160)and files (w-1) But I do use 1095 sometimes. All of these I forge to shape. Most of the time I use a 6" wheel grinder to profile, although I have been known just to file to shape after the forged piece is annealed. I have hacksawed 1095 before. The steel is tough but it is possible.
 
I am a brute. I use a metal cutting blade on an old Rockwell circular saw with the guard removed. I bring it close to the scribe line with a Harbor Freight disc grinder and bring it to final shape on a 4X36 belt grinder.
 
I used use a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Now the Habor Freight bandsaw.

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INDIAN GEORGE
http://indiangeorge.tripod.com/index.htm

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=261337
 
I started with hacksaws, then for $20 I got an angle grinder that did an hour of work in around 30 seconds. Now I use a combination of things. The forge, a Milwaukee portable metal cutting bandsaw, just does straight cuts, the angle grinder, my Craftsman 6" wheel grinder, and for ultimate precision (for me, that is), the 6" disk on the side of my 4"x36" Craftsman with a high grit disk.
I use 1095, 5160, 52100, ATS-34, D2, and occasionally copper for blades. I'm working on damascus mixes.
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Oz

"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/

[This message has been edited by Osbourn (edited 01-23-2001).]
 
Metal cutting bandsaw for the larger chunks then the 8" wheel on my 2x72" belt sander I also use a 1" drum sander in the drill press for finger notches and guards.
 
Oz,

I first bought a $20 grinder. It worked once and died, and the on switch snapped off, on the second blade. Very poor quality, in my case. I bought the Makita - much more expensive, but I hope it'll last in the end. I hope yours serves you better.
 
I seem to be really lucky with cheap tools. Mine is Chicago Tools, serious POS. The ground prong in the plug was cosmetic, came right out. It's served me well for around 4 years now of fairly regular use. I'm thinking of getting a good one and using this one as the locomotion unit for a Battlebot.

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Oz

"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Osbourn:
...occasionally copper for blades</font>
Click to expand...

Oz

Copper sounds cool, though I presume not too functional. Tell us more. Got any pics?

By the way - I would like to nominate your tag line as "Best in the Universe!"

Rob!



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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
I use the metal cutting blades for a skilsaw. Mount one on by bench grinder, put on canvas shirt, leather apron, safety glasses, respirator, hard hat with safety shield, & do the rough cutting. Finish on the 2 X 72. I haven't had one blow up yet, but it does produce a lot of dust.
 
My blades have always been done with a cutting wheel(4" disc) at my job. We use them for cutting mufflers off and such. My last knife I did not want to run to town on a sunday so I drilled a series of holes around my pattern on annealed 1080 carbon and then grabbed my steel with 2 HANDS and with drill press running I guided the holes onto the bit and rocked like a see saw and the bit cut the metal in between the holes very easily. I MUST STRESS THAT I USE A 50 DOLLAR BENCHTOP DRILLPRESS SET ON LOW SPEED. If this grabs the steel,and it has,I have plenty of strength to hold the metal with one hand and shut the machine off. I would not try this with a full size press as In high school I got my shirt caught in one and it wound me into it. One hell of alot of torque on a full size unit. I was using Curtis brand drill bits that were designed to cut with the side flutes but a regular drill bit will probably do the same. Then I took the ragged looking piece of steel to the bench grinder with course wheel and smoothed out to shape. The I took to my el cheapo 4x36 and smoothed up the profile to a nice finish. It worked for me. Cory

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
Ive had them water-jet cut, lazer-cut, Ive used a cutting torch, plasma cutter, hack saw, hand held electric band saw, thin disc on an angle grinder, chop saw and tried the hammer and chisel method. I finally went down and bought a jet metal cutting band saw for $300. It cuts great! All other profiling is from the belt-grinder and the foredom w/sanding drums. Oh yea, I also forge to shape. Bruce
 
I have been using a metal chop saw to cut to length. Then I would rough profile with an 8" serrated wheel and 50 grit belts.. I recently bought a Wilton Tradesman 14" metal/wood bandsaw which I will put to good use..
I can remember the first few blades I made I cut the steel with a series of drilled holes!!! Talk about lazy..:-)

Take Care
Trace Rinaldi
 
I forgot to mention that I cut all my steel to length on a Milwaukie chop saw. I bought it from Harbor Freight as a factory new saw, not a reconditioned one...on sale for $165 delivered to the door.

Cutting to length with a chop saw like that is probably the fastest step involved in making one of my knives. Well worth the cost.

Nick
 
I have some pics, but none posted at the moment. I did a Celtic leaf blade out of pure copper. Still haven't put fittings on it, though.
Thanks for the vote on the tagline. It's from Fight Club.

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Oz

"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken!"
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
 
Vaquero -
One of Bob Engnath's tips (or somebody's) is to run a piece of 1/2" all thread up through the plate on your drill press, use two nuts to lock it in place. That way, if your bit binds and the steel gets away from you, it only goes about a half turn around before it bumps against the all-thread.
 
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