How do you put new plates (scales) on a PM2

MyLegsAreOk

MyLegsAreOk

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Aug 31, 2017
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The deal is these screws either don't move, bend my hex, or strip. I want to get the titanium scales to replace the blurple G10s but I'd like to get an idea from other PM2 owners on how do get these off before I drop the 100USD or so on titanium scales, and find out I can never do the project.

Thanks in advance
 
Heat the screws, and get/use quality Torx bits. If you've already badly stripped the screws, you'll probably have to drill them out.
 
I had the same problem until I picked up a set of WIHA torx screwdrivers. Now they come apart and go back together with relative ease, comparatively. Heat works as suggested if they still won't come off.
 
If you have to resort to drilling, use one size larger drill bit (cobalt if they are stainless screws) than the threaded portion of the screw.
This will allow you to drill off only the stripped head portion.
Once you get all the heads off the scale can be pulled over the "studs" left from the screws.
Heat, and a pair of mini vice grips will easily remove the studs.

Otherwise you will have a bitter fight to the end trying to remove flush set screw remnants from your frames. Not to mention, sloppy scales after they are removed.

Edit:
I saw someone here post "A soldering iron" is very helpful in applying focused heat to the screws. 15-20 seconds or so, and the lock-tite should be no issue
 
Man, I'll have to see who even sells Wiha or if I need to get them on amazon. The way I popped one side loose it pressing crazy hard with a power drill to apply torque after I used a hair dryer on it a bit, but I think I got lucky getting enough screws out to pivot one side with the lanyard hole to I can apply blu lube to the brass and blade hole.

Thanks for the input, I'll see when I get the scales. Another user sold them too me for a great price so I'll find out if I can do this soon.
 
Welp I managed to grab a Weha kit and swap the scales, they aren't perfectly snug because I keep stripping the screws while tightening so it's left with blade play. Does spyderco sell stronger screws? Like titainum or cvm ones?
 
The Wiha bits are great I agree ... keep a few sets and small drivers. And a little heat may help as already stated.

Not sure if you know but changing the scales on the PM2 ... the screws will seem like childs play compared to getting the new scales back on over the lanyard hole pin ... they are a real PITA!
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
Man, I'll have to see who even sells Wiha or if I need to get them on amazon. The way I popped one side loose it pressing crazy hard with a power drill to apply torque after I used a hair dryer on it a bit, but I think I got lucky getting enough screws out to pivot one side with the lanyard hole to I can apply blu lube to the brass and blade hole.

Thanks for the input, I'll see when I get the scales. Another user sold them too me for a great price so I'll find out if I can do this soon.
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The big E has them. A good set is about $20-30. And I recommend getting a heat gun harbor freight or northern tool. It will save you a lot of agravation.
 
I changed out my blurple scales with my dewalt impact driver, high quality torx bits and firm pressure just to pop them loose. Probably sacrilegious but worked quickly and easily for me.
 
For any knife never try to force a screw. If it doesn't easily come loose, it has loctite. Stop what you are doing or you will strip either the screw or the screw driver.

Use a heat gun, hair dryer, soldering iron, or put the knife in boiling water. Spyderco even mention a shock method that works for them (shock the screw by force to shock the loctite loose).

All their new knives don't or at least shouldn't have red loctite anymore due to issues like these that only hurt the customer. They did not say what other type of thread locker they would use instead if any. But red loctite is the devil.
 
Mo2 said:
For any knife never try to force a screw. If it doesn't easily come loose, it has loctite. Stop what you are doing or you will strip either the screw or the screw driver.

Use a heat gun, hair dryer, soldering iron, or put the knife in boiling water. Spyderco even mention a shock method that works for them (shock the screw by force to shock the loctite loose).

All their new knives don't or at least shouldn't have red loctite anymore due to issues like these that only hurt the customer. They did not say what other type of thread locker they would use instead if any. But red loctite is the devil.
Click to expand...

Funny how that goes... I heard no more red too and then found out my KW Millie S90V Titanium had red on the standoffs...the hard way.
 
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