how do you remove light scratches/scuffs off stainless handles?

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Nov 11, 2007
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i just picked up a spyderco ATR and it has a few light scuffs on the handles and 1 light scratch on the blade. anyone out there have a good way of removing these?
 
Try metal polish like Flitz. If that's not enough, you can sand it out by using the correct grit wet/dry emory paper. Figuring out the correct grit size is up to you but it'll probably be at least 320 grit.

personally, if the polish doesn't work, I'd leave it alone.
 
Someone over at the Spyderco forums mentioned using a green Scotch pad on the scales, in a uniform direction. As for the blade, I'd use a metal polish as already suggested. The more scratches already on the knife, the less bad you'll feel when you add a few of your own.
 
Padawan said:
Someone over at the Spyderco forums mentioned using a green Scotch pad on the scales, in a uniform direction. As for the blade, I'd use a metal polish as already suggested. The more scratches already on the knife, the less bad you'll feel when you add a few of your own.
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the best way I have done it before and it works well!
 
Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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The formula is to either blend the scratches by abrading with the same grit as the finish,
or abrade the surface below the level of the scratches and then refinish.
Bill
 
Also note the old emegency metal polish of baking soda (mix with water to make a paste) or toothpaste.

These are light abrasives and capable of removing light surface scratches in some metals.
 
As recommended by others, I'd look at Scotchbrite pads in the correct grit to match the finish.

I think you get a more consistent finish using the Scotchbrite. Go slow, stay in the same direction, and clean the area frequently.
 
JB in SC said:
As recommended by others, I'd look at Scotchbrite pads in the correct grit to match the finish.

I think you get a more consistent finish using the Scotchbrite. Go slow, stay in the same direction, and clean the area frequently.
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This is very important. The first time I did this (SS calypso jr.) I got steel and sandpaper dust in the pivot, resulting in a perpetual grittiness. Obviously, if you can take your knife apart, definitely do that.
 
A Dremel and rouge will polish a small, bright spot-not exactly what you want to do.
Bill
 
I use a Dremel and varying grits of the little scotch brite wheels on a slow speed.

This also gives a wonderful finish on a blade.
 
As someone who professionally restores knives, I can tell you that the surface contact area of a Dremel is not nearly large enough to consistently refinish anything larger than a wedding band.
I probably have Dremels older than most of you, but you guys know better........
Bill
www.billdeshivs.com
 
Bill DeShivs said:
As someone who professionally restores knives, I can tell you that the surface contact area of a Dremel is not nearly large enough to consistently refinish anything larger than a wedding band.
I probably have Dremels older than most of you, but you guys know better........
Bill
www.billdeshivs.com
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Yeh, yeh something about 10 miles in the snow uphill both ways... ;) I have found that Dremels help you screw something up faster that if you did it by hand.
 
mhawg said:
Yeh, yeh something about 10 miles in the snow uphill both ways... ;) I have found that Dremels help you screw something up faster that if you did it by hand.
Click to expand...

I bought my first one in 1966, and can attest to that :)
 
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