How do you remove rust from a patinad blade?

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Jun 26, 2013
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So yesterday I applied patina on my stainless steel bolo. I used mustard for my pattern and vinegar for the color. I left the bolo wrapped in a cloth soaked in vinegar for about 2 hours. Then I let it dry and applied my pattern using mustard and left the mustard overnight. In the morning, the mustard was black and there was rust on the blade. So I took the mustard off and wiped the blade using a damp cloth with vinegar. I was able to get rid of the rust but now parts of the blade are very dark almost black(Not from the pattern) and parts of it are rust color. I need to know how to get rid of the color without damaging my pattern. Or do I need to just do everything all over again? Please if anyone could give me an answer, I'd really appreciate it.
 
I wouldn't use a green scrub pad (Scotchbrite), as it can remove patina and scratch the actual metal. Steel wool is a better choice.
 
From my experience the best way to remove rust from a blade is electrolysis(hope i speld it right...not my native language).
maybe i cam post a link but in short this is what you need:

1) A broken mobile cell phone adapter or a laptop adapter if the blade is biger - 6-12 V output at near 1 Amp or slightly biger is fine.(i'd say go 4 the laptop adapter if the blade is >3 inch).
2) A plastic or glass container (I use a plastic botel cutout) big enough to hold the blade and electrolite.
3) A SACRIFICE ELECTRODE - this is a piece of flat metal(any flat piece of conductive metal will do) with the surface biger than that of the blade.
4) An electrolite i used water+ baking soda aka baking powder(sodium bicarbonate OR washing soda aka sodium carbonate) 1 liter water+ 1 tea spoon of powder is ENOUGH!


Here we go:
-Cut the plastic botle and measura hoew much electrolite you need.
-Prepare the electrolite by disolving the powder in water and place it in the bottle.
-Tie the sacrifice electrode to the to the + of the charger - this will be the ANODE.
-Tie the - -minus- wire of the charger to the blade.
-Put both the blade and the sacrifice electrode in the electrolite !! Make sure they DO NOT TOUCH!!
-Plug in the charger and the electrolyse proces should begin.

Congratulations!

What else you should know:

1)Rust or Fe2O3 will migrate from the blade (the - electrode) to the sacrifice electrode(+).
2)In this process hidrogen bubbles will form as a secondary product of the chemical reaction. - if you see bubbles forming on the blade this is a sign you got it right.

3)Make sure you ghet the electrodes right oterwise the blade could be oxidized:))

4)You still need to clean up the blade after the electrolyse is complete and the rust is gone.

5)The process can take up betwen 1 and 2-3 hours depending on the size of the blade, the amount of rust amd the charder usde.
6)This process only afects the rust, not the blade material...so if you keep itlonger the blade does not suffer.
7)At the end of the process the blade is not shiny, you'll have to remove the surface coating with a scotchbrite pad or dish wasing pad.

8)The advantage of this process is that it removes rust completley even frome the finest scratches and pitting in the blade.

If the blade has a patina on it i think it will dissapear after the process.

Have fun!
 
Baking soda.

Baking soda.

Baking soda.

It neutralizes the acid/steel reaction, therefore stopping what's causing the rust. Best time to use it, is immediately after rinsing the vinegar/mustard or any other acids from the blade. Sprinkle dry baking soda on it, then scrub the blade with the baking soda and rinse. Keep doing it until you don't see any more red/brown discoloration coming off.

Don't let the blade dry with acids still on it. Don't try cleaning with more vinegar, as that just continues the corrosion, as it's removing the rust.

And just in case, I'd like to reiterate: BAKING SODA!! :D


David
 
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That is very complicated but I will try to learn it. Thank you so much for this very detailed explanation. You are awesome my friend! I really appreciate it.
 
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