how do you remove the black coating off your Emerson?

[colubrid]

I want to get the black coating completely off one of my Emersons. It is already scuffed up and want to remove all the black.

Is there a chemical solvent or what do you recommend?

 

[Seraphim_combat]

To the best of my knowledge sandblasting, soon I’ll have a scuffed up commander I’ll bead blast the blade and bolster for my brother

As far as a chemical dip ... hmm not sure ... possibly mek or possibly a costic acid, try a suppressor dip I think it’s vinager and isopropyl but not sure

 

[harvey554]

I use 120 to 220 grit sandpaper secured to a wooden block for coating removal. I'll move to higher grits depending on the look I want to achieve. You can use chemicals to strip the coating too, but I can't remember what the other members suggested to use.

 

[colubrid]

I use 120 to 220 grit sandpaper secured to a wooden block for coating removal. I'll move to higher grits depending on the look I want to achieve. You can use chemicals to strip the coating too, but I can't remember what the other members suggested to use.

well it sounds like you have done this before. What kind of wooden block? Just a slab and stretch the sandpaper arcoss? How does that line up with the curves of the show side on an Emerson?

 

[harvey554]

Alright, I'll be more detailed.
The sand paper is taped on both ends onto a flat and hard surface. You can secure it in any way as long as the sandpaper stays in place during sanding. I'll tape the sandpaper on a wooden block because it wont mar the blade surface when the sandpaper shifts or tears. Now, you have two options depending on what you're more comfortable with.
1. Secure the block and sand the blade freehand like you are sharpening the knife, but instead of working the edge, you're working the bevels and flats.
2. Or, you can secure the blade and move the block.

I have found that long steady strokes in only one direction are best so that the grind marks are consistent. Otherwise there's a high chance you get odd patterns. For two tone blades, I'll sand the bevels and use tape to protect the maker marks and blade flats. Just like edge sharpening, keeping consistent angles will be important so that you do not round off the bevel edges.

Recurved blades are a little bit of a pain for me. For these, I'll secure sandpaper on a 1in wide block with the edges rounded and work the recurved portions with that.

 

[mt666tm]

You don't have to sand the blade. Get a spray can of " Talstrip Aircraft Coating Remover " . It must be this brand. Other shop-brand coating removers are crap. This way you keep the blasted finish and logo under the black coating .

Do this outside on a piece of cardboard, on ground with nothing important nearby. If this stuff gets on anything, like plastic, etc, it will eat it immediately. Wear gloves, cover up, use eye protection... or do it like me in shorts and a T-shirt. If any gets on your skin you'll know pretty quick. Flush with water and it's all good.

Remove the blade, spray it on thick, and give it a few min to eat at the coating. Then rub with a towel to see how much comes off... repeat until all coating is removed.

I have been using this stuff for years so I use bare hands and it does not bother me too much. Keep a bucket of water next to you and dip your hands in periodically to rinse them when you feel the burn.

Your blade will then look like this:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sandblasted-finish-under-factory-black-blades.1515959/

 

[harvey554]

bingo, that's the post i remember reading. Thanks for the reminder and sample pics mt666tm