How do you sharpen a convex edge in the field?

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uncleknife1

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Mar 24, 2009
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How do you sharpen a convex edge in the field?
I have a Spyderco Hossom Forager & am not used to this type of edge, so I don't know how to do this. - I know at home to use a loose belt grinder, but in the field? not just a stropping?
 
uncleknife1 said:
How do you sharpen a convex edge in the field?
I have a Spyderco Hossom Forager & am not used to this type of edge, so I don't know how to do this. - I know at home to use a loose belt grinder, but in the field? not just a stropping?
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I've come to believe that a convex edge is the easiest to maintain, ESPECIALLY if you're already comfortable with stropping. My favorite sharpening method involves placing sandpaper (wet/dry type) on top of my strop block (leather on wood), and just 'stropping' the knife as I normally would, but using a grit choice suitable for the needs of my edge. If your edge is already in pretty good shape, but perhaps not quite responding to stropping with compound, I'd start with some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Or, if you prefer a slightly toothier edge, maybe start down around 400/600 or so. You'll figure out pretty quickly which grit suits your needs. Pretty much everything you'll ever need to do, from reprofiling to touching up and giving a decent polish to the edge, can be handled with grits in the 220 thru 2000 range. Your own preference will determine if you need or want to take it even further.

Just remember, keep your pressure very light, and the angle as low as possible, so you don't round over the edge. Obviously, since you're using the sandpaper, it won't take near as long to dull the edge, if your stropping technique is inconsistent.

Edited to add:
By the way, since you're asking about a 'field' solution, my strop block is relatively small, compared to the bench-sized strop blocks many use. Mine is made from 2.5" wide oak, 1/2" thick, and cut to just a little under 6" in length. My preferred stropping method involves holding the strop block in one hand (thumb at one end, a couple fingers at the other), and the knife in the other hand. When using the sandpaper, I cut it to the same width, but a bit longer than the block, so I can wrap the paper around the ends of the block, and hold it in place with my fingers at the ends. All in all, I'd have no qualms about putting the strop block and sandpaper in a zip-loc bag (my block will fit nicely in the sandwich-size bags), and taking it with me, wherever I happen to go. Obviously, you could also make the block even more pocketable, using a thinner stock of wood (like 1/4" or so).
 
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I like to use just a strip of old mouse pad and lay sandpaper on that on a flat surface. the mousepad and sandpaper can be rolled up pretty compact
 
A piece of sandpaper on the top of my thigh/jeans leg. My convex knives are <3.5" blades. Obviously this would not work for a large blade.--KV
 
You can rig something easily using a backing (leather or piece of mouse pad) and sandpaper. I carry a piece cut from just a wood paint stirrer like Home Depot carries with sandpaper on one side and leather w/compound on the other. The Altoids tin approach seems to be popular as well. Here you can cut and glue the backing on the lid and carry strips of sandpaper inside, tensioning these when you close the lid. For touch ups, a strip of stiff cardboard with compound on it works fine.
 
kvaughn said:
A piece of sandpaper on the top of my thigh/jeans leg. My convex knives are <3.5" blades. Obviously this would not work for a large blade.--KV
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This is what I do too.

If it's a bigger blade, I'll find a flat-ish surface instead of my leg.

I also have a JRE Industries Field Strop that rolls up small and I can hook it to a tree branch or even step on the end of it to give it some tension.

I find regular stropping minimizes the need for sharpening in the field but to have such a compact and lightweight setup for both makes it silly to not bring both.

B
 
You can sharpen a convex edge on a regular stone........
 
On the field, I use small Victorinox sharpener (pocket size) and those ladies' nail polisher, a sponge block with 4 grade of coarseness. The smoothest is almost as good as stropping using leather + compound, I think, as I never really have the compound.
 
In the field????

I suppose that one could use one's leather belt as an improvised strop. But in my experience, it is far easier to either carry along a spare knive, of better yet, take the field with a properly sharpened knife made from a top end, highly abrasion resistant steel.
 
you can get a 400 grit jflex belt and some white rouge. work up a burr with the belt and use the backside with some rouge applied as the strop. tie the belt to a tree trunk or between 2 trees and adjust accordingly. the belt will roll up into a small roll and the rouge can be put in a small bag.
 
Just a thought, but you'll probably be surprised that you don't need to sharpen it in the field. Convex edges cut and chop long after they shouldn't. If you must, touch up the edge with a small ceramic rod. Doesn't take much.
 
As Mr. Hossom said and I agree that a small cermaic is extremely is very effective and easily carried in kit. I really like the Lansky grey grade ceramic. It can handle a little tougher dulling as well (with a very lite hand) achieve a razor sharpe finish. It works an any type edge except serration and in the case of serration a Spyderco triangle ceramic.
 
Thank you all, especially Mr. Hossom, for the personal advise.
Right now it's so pretty, I almost hate to use it.
 
richard j said:
you can get a 400 grit jflex belt and some white rouge. work up a burr with the belt and use the backside with some rouge applied as the strop. tie the belt to a tree trunk or between 2 trees and adjust accordingly. the belt will roll up into a small roll and the rouge can be put in a small bag.
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Hi Richard, I am new to the forum and have revived this old thread. I have been reading about different convex sharpening systems. I saw your post and it makes alot of sense. A simple and compact convex edge field maintenance "kit." My question is which belt grit from micro-mesh belts from www.micro-surface.com would be equal to the "400 grit Jflex." Also, where can you purchase the white rouge? I know I can get the green stropping compound from my local woodcraft store - would this work too? Thanks in advance.

Todd
 
just get a jflex in 400 grit. they are flexible enough to roll up tight and last a long time. if you coat the backside of the belt with compound before you head out you'll be ready to go when you need it. like jerry said above, a convex edge will cut and chop a long time. i have a knife out on a passaround and so far it has chopped quite a bit of stuff.

i was told that it needs stropped to bring back the shaving edge but it is still sharp enough to do plenty of chopping or cutting. here is a video of it that was made by the member who has it now. he goes by unit on the forum. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q_eMwRaHYg
after he made this video he chopped down a cedar tree but he was weak from being sick earlier in the week. there might be a video of it.
 
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