I have a Lansky System with a base and am reasonably satisfied that I am now able to put a good edge on a blade. Up to a point that is, as I always feel that I have done a less than adequate job on the tip of the blade. I limit myself to just pulling a finger across the blade but the darn tip always seems dull. Could I be doing something wrong? Ideas, Suggestions to improve are appreciated.
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How do you sharpen the tip of the blade?
- Thread starter jebib
- Start date
Ajack60
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2013
- Messages
- 8,489
Use a sharpie to fill in the bevel of the blade, if you can, move the clamp closer to the tip. The mistake I was making was putting the blade in the clamp closer to the back half of the blade which threw the tip grind off to the point of removing too much metal to get the tip sharp. Learned that I had the clamp too far back on the blade. Once I started putting the clamp as close to the tip as possible, the angle of the tip didn't change and was able to get it sharp. On a longer blade, I move the clamp to get the tip area.
The tips of knives are the part that's usually used the most. Both the point and the first inch or two on most blades gets the most attention. So it's natural for the blade to require more sharpening near the tip, as it will usually be the dullest part. If you're trying to make it extra pointy again, bludgeon's suggestion about grinding the back side is a good place to start. It's not the only way, or always the best way, but it's usually effective at restoring the point. Using a magnifying glass or a loupe to examine *why* the tip isn't pointy is very informative.
If the part of the blade *edge* near the tip is dull, then the technique is different. Using sharpie marker on the edge is one of the keys to seeing what's going on. A lot of people fail to grind to the edge near the tip. This is usually because of the curve of the blade. Because the blade is curved, you have to change your angle of approach to the stone. If you are missing the "edge of the edge" you'll clearly see it because the marker won't get removed at the very edge. It will still be black.
One way of changing your angle of approach is to lift the handle of the blade as you go through the curve. But that's a vague description. Let me link you to a video by one of the masters, Mr. Ken Schwartz:
[video=youtube;JFhUXgYS0Os]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFhUXgYS0Os[/video]
Good luck and let us know how you do!
Brian.
If the part of the blade *edge* near the tip is dull, then the technique is different. Using sharpie marker on the edge is one of the keys to seeing what's going on. A lot of people fail to grind to the edge near the tip. This is usually because of the curve of the blade. Because the blade is curved, you have to change your angle of approach to the stone. If you are missing the "edge of the edge" you'll clearly see it because the marker won't get removed at the very edge. It will still be black.
One way of changing your angle of approach is to lift the handle of the blade as you go through the curve. But that's a vague description. Let me link you to a video by one of the masters, Mr. Ken Schwartz:
[video=youtube;JFhUXgYS0Os]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFhUXgYS0Os[/video]
Good luck and let us know how you do!
Brian.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Messages
- 1,760
This.
Your dullness is a result of the angle decreasing as the stone gets further from the clamp. The stone is hitting too shallow to affect the edge.
Use the sharpie, and pay attention to where the stone is removing metal in relation to where the blade is clamped.
Or learn to freehand.
Bludgeon's suggestion pertains to knives that end up with blunted tips from various things, like slipping off a stone. Great advice, but doesn't pertain to your problem. It will definitely come in handy in the future tho . . .
Like if you ever get a sharpmaker.
Heh.
I have noticed a lot of factory knives come with increasingly steep angles near the tip. Using the Sharpie marker with a guided system and you can easily see this. Correct positioning of the clamp is the key to getting this to work with correct angles. The first time you do this to a new knife it will probably take a lot of time.