How do you sharpen your buck?

Sharpening done right is an art, one I've never learned and more than likely never will. I do use the Sharpmaker, more for touching up than real "sharpening" but if a knife really needs work, I have a Pro that does it for me.

Check this sub-forum out: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/794-Maintenance-Tinkering-amp-Embellishment

And these:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...on-buck-specific?highlight=sharpening+methods

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...up-Buck-s-420-HC?highlight=sharpening+methods

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...tones-talk-to-me?highlight=sharpening+methods

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...rpening-Question?highlight=sharpening+methods


Don't get me wrong, no one here minds answering questions, but 99% of your "how do you like", "what do you think of" "how do you do this" etc., questions have already been answered and can be found by doing a simple search of the forum. That might answer your questions faster than posting them here first and waiting for results. Just a thought.
 
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Freehand with a combination of Diamond stones, Norton Aluminum Oxide(India) stones, Hard Arkansas stone, Wet/Dry sandpaper. Diamond stones get water with just a tiny drop of dish detergent as a wetting agent. Oil stones, India and Hard Arkansas get Norton honing oil. Sandpaper is used wet or dry depending on what I am working on. Whichever I choose depends on the steel type, degree of re sharpening needed, like if I buy a used Buck that is very dull, I will go right to a coarse diamond to cut a new bevel, then work my way up. I like to finish on my hand lapped India stone, then strop on loaded leather if I am going for a highly finished edge, if I'm doing rough stuff, I will leave the edge a little coarse.
Sandpaper is often my go to for repairing a point on a blade, working from the back side.
 
Sharpmaker for normal touchup. Wicked Edge Sharpening System for really dull blades or reprofiling.
 
I use a Lansky for most of my sharpening.

Unless you're dealing with an older Buck with the odd hollow grind (put a lot of material behind the edge), there's no magic to sharpening a Buck compared to any other knife. 420HC sharpens easily on normal stones. Above that, you may want to spring for diamond stones.

Most of their blades are hollow ground, which may require some tricks for doing wood working/carving/whittling.

You might search in the Maintenance sub-forum for threads on sharpening systems to read more reviews than you can shake a stick at. IMO, there are 3 basic approaches: A guided system like the Lansky; An angled rod system like the Spyderco; Freehand on flat stones. IMO, those are listed in increasing levels of skill needed to get repeatable results, which is why I stick to the Lansky (no skill).
 
Pinnah, the lansky does require some skill to get a good bevel and edge on your knives. It is just a fairly easy system to learn with some practice on some beater knives. Don't sell your skill short. A good system to learn the basics of sharpening on. I use the paper wheels which is easy to get great results on, but not without some practice at first.

Blessings,

Omar
 
For quick sharpening ,spyderco sharpmaker,when i have lots of time its a complete 3 stage benchstone hand sharpening,followed by a leather strop and polishing compund.
 
Plumberdv said:
Is teaching folks to sharpen a new sideline for Leroy these days? :D
Click to expand...

Dave, I don't know... But he did show me how too... I just don't have a sander like his... :( ...
You can ask him if you go to the show in Pasadena in March on the 8th-10th... :D
I might go this time... I hope to see you there... (Saturday) ... :thumbup:

Here's a 110 he did for me... First a spa and then the last 3 pics is him sharping it...
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:)
 
Razorblades: where did you get your stroping compound? How much of a difference did it make for you compared to stroping without the compound?
 
I get my bars of compound at knivesshipfree,it makes all the difference in the world on a finished edge.
 
All my sharpening is done freehand on either my Norton IM-313 or JUM-3, the IB-8 is a good combination stone too. I try to avoid stropping and instead remove the burr on the final stone. I usually take a knife edge to only 320 grit. DM
 
I've never had any luck using Arkansas or Norton stones. Just something about the way they cut, I just can't get a good edge with them. I tend to use DMT diafolds, and a couple of the Buck sharpeners, namely the Edgetek Flipstik and the dual sided pocket diamond stone. If I feel like making the edge look nice, as well as sharp, then I'll use sandpaper strips on top of leather strips.
 
EdgePro Apex. After seeing the demo by a master bladesmith years ago at OKCA I couldn't resist.

ITE, thank you for the look into the inner sanctum of Leroy Remer who walks the earth like a giant in my eyes. He is to knives what Warren Buffet is to $.
 
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