How do you sharpen your knife in survival situation?

Joined
Jul 7, 2021
Messages
119
Hello,
I am looking for knowledge about sharpening your knife in survival situation. I've found a few articles, but nothing in depth. Really no more than "pick a stone and just do it" type of articles :). Can you recommend me some articles, books or your own experiences/about about this topic?
 
Car window is frosted on the top. Ceramic dish or plate the rough side. Bottoms are not as shiny and glazed as the tops. And yes a rock or.stone. and then you can stash a few sheets of sandpaper in your car or bag.
 
Car window is frosted on the top. Ceramic dish or plate the rough side. Bottoms are not as shiny and glazed as the tops. And yes a rock or.stone. and then you can stash a few sheets of sandpaper in your car or bag.
But what type of stone is best? Where will you find stones that are best suited for sharpening?
 
I would use a round river rock if I could get one. They would be smooth enough. You may find some slate as well. Relatively smooth is what I would look for. A large rounded stone would give you a decent sized surface.
 
survival situation srsly 🤪

you mean you're in the Rocky Mountains, got your gear stolen incl. your portable sharpening stone RRS, found a dull knife in a lodge, and need to sharpen it to save your ***?

i'd go to the creek and fetch a smooth stone and a fresh mackerel. like they did in yellow stone.
 
Preparation for it is key. And for part of that, I'd be picky about which steel you're relying upon, in your knife. Simple stones off the ground aren't well-suited for sharpening supersteels with a lot of hard carbides. Even mid-grade stainless steel like 440C can be challenging on any natural stone. Consider that Arkansas stones, which are considered to be some of the best of any natural sharpening stones, will struggle with any major work on 440C. Something even as basic as 420HC can be a little unresponsive at times, depending upon what types of stones you find on the ground to sharpen it. I mention these things, because I've tried them to satisfy my own curiosity. And where I live, it can be challenging to find a stone that actually works very well for these purposes. At least in part, this is why I prefer to carry blades in simpler steels like 1095, CV and low-alloy stainless (420HC).
 
Last edited:
I have no experience doing that. Generally sandstone could work. But you would need two pieces and smooth them. Quartz and granite have been mentioned in a survival manual, as far as I remember. And some years ago there was a documentary about a Swiss guy (or maybe he was a Frenchman) who tried to survive 60 days on an island. He carried a Swiss Army Knife (would speak for a Swiss guy, wouldn't it?). And he sharpened his knife with some volcanic rocks. Not sure what it was, maybe basalt or obsidian (yes, he could have used an obisidian blade instead).
 
Sandstone, quartz and obsidian are all pieces I've experimented with. I live in the desert southwest of the U.S., and most of these are plentiful here. Sandstone varies greatly - a lot of it I've tried is much too coarse and blocky/blunt in grit shape and it'll do more damage than good, by burring or heavy rolling of the edge, without much real abrasion. And the quartz here is very hard, but also much too coarse in grit size to be very useful. And true obsidian is 'amorphous' in nature, meaning it has no discernible crystal structure. This means it's generally not hard enough, or strong enough microscopically, to abrade anything very hard. I tried quartz and obsidian samples in a 'scratch test' on glass (simple plate glass), comparing each of those to using the corner of a black hard Arkansas stone to do the same. The quartz easily scratched the glass, as did the Arkansas stone. But the obsidian couldn't scratch the glass at all - it was too soft, even in relation to the glass, which itself isn't very hard.

I did get lucky finding one piece of very fine-grained siltstone (or a very, very fine sandstone), which behaved much like a waterstone when used wet. The grit shed easily from the piece, like a very muddy waterstone. I used it to regrind an entirely new edge on a Case folder's blade in 420HC (HRC 55-57). It actually worked pretty well for that, and I used some of the shed 'mud' from the stone as a compound on some leather scrap to strop the burrs away. That's the ONLY piece I've had impressive results with, in all of the looking I've done. It was a small piece, just fitting into the palm of my hand. I've wished I could find a bigger slab of that stuff.
 
Last edited:
Maybe all those writers of survival manuals never tried that in practice. What David wrote can't make one optimistic.

Nonetheless two links:
Bear Grylls style

River rocks (only in German, starting at 22:04)
I'm certain that some geologic regions will be more fruitful than others, in terms of the types of rocks one finds to do these things, and the actual capabilities of the stones found. This is why it's so important to take into account where you are and what you can realistically expect to find, when the 'survival situation' suddenly presents itself. But where I am, I can see it wouldn't be so easy, most of the time.

For me, I'd 'prepare' in the sense that I'd take a known good, manmade hone of my preference with me, wherever I go, and focus on NOT LOSING IT, no matter the situation. This is why I keep my DMT 'credit card' hones in my wallet at all times, and I never leave home without the wallet or the hones. ;)
 
Last edited:
This is why I keep my DMT 'credit card' hones in my wallet at all times, and I never leave home without the wallet or the hones. ;)
You mean those diamond stones that you can get for like 15 bucks each? 🤔

I've read that you could basically use piece of wood to hone your knife because wood can sometimes have little quartz crystals in it's structure but I am really not sure about it being true.

And true obsidian is 'amorphous' in nature, meaning it has no discernible crystal structure. This means it's generally not hard enough, or strong enough microscopically, to abrade anything very hard.
I didn't thought about the obsidian being glassy at first but it seems logical. There maybe some types of obsidians that could contain little crystals of minerals though but I am not really an expert on this.
 
You mean those diamond stones that you can get for like 15 bucks each? 🤔

I've read that you could basically use piece of wood to hone your knife because wood can sometimes have little quartz crystals in it's structure but I am really not sure about it being true.


I didn't thought about the obsidian being glassy at first but it seems logical. There maybe some types of obsidians that could contain little crystals of minerals though but I am not really an expert on this.
Yes, the DMT credit card hones... when I bought mine, they were a little cheaper. Maybe $10-$12 each.

Any wood I've tried doesn't have enough abrasive potential of any kind, by itself. But sometimes 'resharpening' is mainly about realigning a rolled or burred edge, in which case a simple piece of wood could work for that, like a simple strop. And some sand/dirt, if it's the right sort of stuff, can be rubbed onto the wood for some abrasion. Some have used the ashes of burned wood, rubbed onto a piece of wood. The ash contains minerals that have some abrasive potential. But again, it depends on what's available to you at the time.

Some obsidian-like stones do have some crystalline structure. But literally by definition, pure obsidian itself doesn't have a crystal structure. It's formed as a result of very rapid cooling of molten silica, which doesn't allow enough time for crystals to form. The longer it takes for the molten silica to cool, the larger the crystals become.
 
Last edited:
What does 'survival situation' mean? If you're talking about being out in the woods for one night more than you intended, it won't be an issue. If you're talking about a Gilligan's Island scenario, you'll die or be rescued before your dull knife becomed a problem.
 
What does 'survival situation' mean? If you're talking about being out in the woods for one night more than you intended, it won't be an issue. If you're talking about a Gilligan's Island scenario, you'll die or be rescued before your dull knife becomed a problem.
Imagine you are a soldier, you throw your backpack somewhere because enemy fires at you, you survive the situation but backpack is nowhere to be found. I agree that it really depends on situation, but if you are staying in the woods for more than one night and no contact with outer world, it's little worse.
 
Lots of good info on here.

My philosophy is: if you prepare in advance, even a little bit, most situations are turned into an inconvenience instead of a survival situation.

Simple example is your knife. It is pretty easy to spend twice what your knife cost on a proper sheath & its accessories.

You want a sheath that has a fire starting rod, a basic sharpener & some tinder. You also need a dangler to make it super comfortable while working, hiking, entering vehicles or riding horses. You want it to absolutely positively not accidentally fall out of sheath. Being able to unsnap the upper handle snap & have it still be secure & removed and inserted with 1 hand is also beneficial.

I think any outdoor knife is not actually complete without all those things. But many people don't prepare, even a little bit.
 
I would use the sharpener I brought with me. Period. All this "pick up a rock and sharpen" is 90% fantasy IMO. I've tried it, it's much harder than it looks. If I'm carrying a knife, I'm also carrying a DMT. No exceptions to that rule for me.

Reminds me of the common quote "Your survival knife is the one you have on you." No kidding, Capt. Obvious. I've never been kidnapped, brought to the woods, then released. I simply don't go out unprepared.
 
It's really going to depend on your location. Most of the most desired sharpening stones in the pre-supersteel era were naturally occurring and shipped around the world to those who desired those qualities.
As far as things I would be willing to try if time was suddenly less important (and again, in "standard" steels) sand or dirt on a board or cloth as a stropping compound. Wood ash, especially if you found particularly dense woods, or had a material known to be high in silica, like say cigar ash.
Where I am there is a lot of ancient volcanic basalt and soil that is very high in iron (like getting a magnet dirty while hunting for a lost screw in the grass high) so I'm guessing that a steel like 1095 would be strop-able using that as a compound.
Geometry is going to be a factor as well. This is where convex grinds probably would do the best as they react well to stropping, whereas an aggressive v-grind would take a delicate touch to not just dig in and cut away the softer substrate.

There is almost certainly a useful sharpening material in your local area, its just a matter of knowing what it is, and how to best utilize it. In my case, once the edge goes off my LT Wright 3V, its becoming a spear, I've got nothing that will sharpen it. And hopefully in that time, I'll have found a nice branch of iron-bark to use as a steel for my RC-3 because its hard enough to serve the purpose.
 
Where I am there is a lot of ancient volcanic basalt and soil that is very high in iron (like getting a magnet dirty while hunting for a lost screw in the grass high) so I'm guessing that a steel like 1095 would be strop-able using that as a compound.
I know what you are talking about. Soil rich in iron oxide is near to my home and it's quite abrasive.
 
Back
Top