How do you use a strop

kryptonite,
If you are using a belt sander and a strop....
You need to use the belt in a place where the belt will slack to curl around the edge. After you get a burr on the full edge you can strop the burr off.
The trick the the strop is to not over do it.
I think other will add ideas here!!!
 
I strop the way barbers use to do it. Old belt clamped to my bench loaded with 600 grit aluminum oxide compound. I strop away from the edge from heel to point.
Scott
 
Darrel and Scott gave you it all.Smooth strokes with enough pressure to polish the wire edge off.If a dozen strokes don't do it,it isn't ready to strop.
Stacy
 
I`m probably gonna get a belt sander from harbor freight and use a leather belt as a strop. I tried stropping my leatherman with my belt but it didn`t work. Maybe I need some aluminum oxide. I was stropping away from the edge. I`m gonna get a RD6 and learn on that. After that I`ll move up to busse. I know busse quit doing assymetrical edge but does swamp rat do it?
 
Thanks Darrel. I forgot to mention the burr along the edge. I do it first on the grinder then strop. Once I have the convex edge in place, all that's needed to bring the sharpness back is to strop it.
Scott
 
Scott,
It was good seeing you at the Baltimore show.

I have found as most have here that each different steel types even strop differently.
Some take longer and more attention to get the burr off than other material do.

Sharpening is definably not a process that is set in stone.
It take some intuition to sharpen each
type of steel.
 
I have a barbers strop which hangs in my shop and I coat it with a leather stropping compound (barbers supply).

I use a slack belt to work a wire edge then go to strop.

Strop still attached on the wall, I hold the bottom of the strop and pull it towards me..the strop is tight but not rigid. I then place the blade on the strop, edge away from me..lift the spine slightly and and draw the blade down slowly. I watch for the burr to show up, then do the other side of the blade , till the burr re appears...then keep swapping sides till I begin to see the burr break loose...when thats done, its razor sharp. It usualy only takes a few passes per side.

I can tell a lot by the way the burr forms..different steels and different hardnesses form different burrs (to me anyway)...I am always looking for a distinct burr to form, and when I see it, I know the knife will sharpen well.
 
Darrel Ralph said:
Scott,
It was good seeing you at the Baltimore show.

I have found as most have here that each different steel types even strop differently.
Some take longer and more attention to get the burr off than other material do.

Sharpening is definably not a process that is set in stone.
It take some intuition to sharpen each
type of steel.
Click to expand...
Nice being able to talk to you also.;) I agree, each steel type acts differently.
Scott
 
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