How do you use your sharpmaker?

[emwonk]

I just got one of these and it works great for me. I went to work on an old blade after a quick look at the instructions, and I soon had it barely shaving sharp -- the first time I have ever been able to do that.

Now I have a couple of questions -- does anybody use that 30 degree angle as a routine matter? The instructions said that gets used only whan the 40 degree approach doesn't give satisfactory results. (For use on "over sharpened knives."

Also, how do I avoid rounding off the point of the knife, while still getting the blade sharp to the point?

Finally, anybody recommend the mousepad with fine grit sandpaper as a final stap?

 

[Nosmo]

Also, how do I avoid rounding off the point of the knife, while still getting the blade sharp to the point?QUOTE]


I would like to see an answer to this too........
This is one of the reasons I have stayed away from this type of sharpener.

 

[cmd]

Also, how do I avoid rounding off the point of the knife, while still getting the blade sharp to the point?QUOTE]


I would like to see an answer to this too........
This is one of the reasons I have stayed away from this type of sharpener.

Here is how I do it, others may have different opinions: only use the flats for sharpening the tip of a blade.

When using the corners try to not go all the way to the tip of the blade. Pulling the tip past the end of the corner rounds it off by dragging the tip across the side facing you. I usually stop about half an inch or so before the tip reaches the corner.

Hope this helps, my tips stay nice and pointy.

Also, the 30 degree side works great by itself on my D2 blades.

Chris

 

[Redstripe_808]

Hey,

Here's what i do, I use the corners of the stones but i make sure that i drag the blade down the stone so that i end up right near the bottom of the stone by the end of a stroke and i slow down and just go off slowly finishing the tip. I'm going to try the flats as CMD recommends some time too.

A light touch works better with the sharpmaker, and it helps you maintain control as well.

I use a strop and green oxide honing compound from www.leevalley.com
to finish.

Oh, the 30 degree angle would be suitable for kitchen knives that you want a steep angle on, they'll be weaker, but they are a softer temper .....so you can re-steel them before use anway to set the edge straight again.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

Now I have a couple of questions -- does anybody use that 30 degree angle as a routine matter? The instructions said that gets used only whan the 40 degree approach doesn't give satisfactory results. (For use on "over sharpened knives."

Here's the deal on "over sharpened knives" and the 30 degree setting.

Think about the shape of a blade, seen edge-on, say, a flat grind. The sides slant down to the edge, with a secondary bevel, which is what the Sharpmaker works on.

After a while, you sharpen and sharpen, which keeps the secondary bevel at the same 40 degrees, but further and further up the blade as you wear away the original edge. You've seen old blades sharpened down till they look like filet knives!

So use that 40, but then go back and use the 30 also. This will wear down the "shoulders" of the bevel, where the secondary bevel meets the flat of the blade. It makes for an effect like a convex edge, only instead of the smooth convex transition, you have two steps between the flats and the cutting edge. The knife will now present a thinner blade when slicing into material.

 

[Jeff Clark]

I use a belt sander or bench hone to reduce my angle to around 25-degrees included angle before I start using the Sharpmaker medium grit rods. Then I do about 5 strokes per side on the rod edges (alternating sides) and 5 strokes per side on the rod flats both at 30-degree included angle to even up the edge. Then I do about 5 light strokes per side on the rod flats (alternating sides) at around 30-degrees PER SIDE (60-degree included angle) to remove burrs. Then I do about 5 light strokes per side back at the 30-degree included angle setting to get back my acute edge (also on the flats). To get a really sharp edge finish I do about 5 light strokes per side on the rod flats at the 40 degree included angle setting. For a shaving edge I do about 5 more light strokes per side at the 40 degree included angle setting--finally using the flats of the fine white rods.

I don't do much work with the rod edges since I have a belt sander and water stones for bulk material removal.

 

[myopicmouse]

Tip - Putting my finger 2 put pressure on tip i push it down the flat side of
T-AS whilst moving butt of knife upwards then i do it on the white flat side. So i have a sharp edge and pointy end!