How do you..(you guessed it) .sharpen

R

RDog

Joined
Jul 28, 2011
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So my question centers around the Tenacious, w/full serration.

Looking at the blade it seems almost like its a chisel grind of sort, and thus I would think it best not to put a micro bevel on the "flat side." however the spyderco sharpmaker video shows sharpening serrations on the "3rd step" as if it were a regular edge...left, right, left etc. They say it creates a stronger edge.

I have had a tenacious for several months in its box, it was hair shaving sharp, but I decided to see how it would handle breaking down a lot of thick cardboard boxes yesterday. First 3-4 cuts it sailed through several feet of cardboard on each swipe (and thick heavy stuff at that) but soon dulled and needed to be "sawed' through.

Whats the best way to get it back hair shaving sharp. Double bevel or single bevel?

I just want it sharp again so it can go back in the box and await reserve duty.

(Note to self, plain edges seem better for cardboard.)
 
Do a search on youtube...Highly gifted people there.
Spyderco should take a look at Victorinox serrations, they are the best IMO
 
I sharpen my PE and SE on my paper wheel set up in my shop. I carry a dmt in my laptop bag for sharpening in the feild and am waiting for some DMT round sharpeners to field sharpen my SE Pacific.
 
panch0 said:
I sharpen my PE and SE on my paper wheel set up in my shop. I carry a dmt in my laptop bag for sharpening in the feild and am waiting for some DMT round sharpeners to field sharpen my SE Pacific.
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Back when I worked in a woodworking shop I used a buffing wheel on my last combo edge spyderco...it worked great. But don't have that option now. I have a sharpmaker and sandpaper these days
 
Fredde90210 said:
Do a search on youtube...Highly gifted people there.
Spyderco should take a look at Victorinox serrations, they are the best IMO
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Yeah, spent a lot of time looking...gets lots of different "answers."

Never have seen in person the vic serrations. But think a trecker is in my future.



On a side note, 3 replies from 3 different countries...cool.
 
I sharpen serrations like they are plain edges, but only on the corners of the rods like it shows in the book.
 
my problem is getting used to the curve of my ti military during free-handing. looks like i was used to the flattish profiles of the delica and endura. :(
 
RDog said:
But do you sharpen only the beveled side, then remove the burr or just hit it like its a plaine edge?
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I tend to avoid serrations now, but I do have one combo edge knife. They aren't bad for cutting rope especially if you don't keep your knife very sharp. An extremely sharp plain edge draw cuts just as well from my experience anyway.

The big problem with edc and serrations is just what you found yourself cutting cardboard. The chisel grind makes the cut go in at an angle. It makes it hard to make straight cuts.

To answer your original question, I have sharpened serrations both ways. Sometimes with the sharpmaker and I do a microbevel on both sides. It will round the points off slightly. Do it just like Sal teaches in his video.

I also have a Gatco Tri-seps diamond stone that is designed to sharpen each serration individually. This does take more time though. In my opinion, just doing it on the Sharpmaker is faster and the serrations still perform as intended even with the micro bevel and slightly rounded off.
 
Well first I hit just the bevel and deburred the other side, got it to shave a little but not good enough...left a lot of red marks on my leg as well. So I did as spyderco recomends and put a decent edge back on, not like it was out of the box, but good for as much effort as I put into it.

Cutting cardboard was the first thing that a serrated blade let me down on. Sure there are other things like whittling, but I don't find I do that much.

Thanks for the info guys.
 
I work up a burr on the flat edge and then knock it off in the serrations. I then move to a 2-1 stroke just to refine the edge on the lighter stones. I'll wrap some leather around a pencil and drag each large opening across the leather to clean all of it up. I've never had a problem getting my serrations back to scary sharp.
 
tincansurvival said:
I work up a burr on the flat edge and then knock it off in the serrations. I then move to a 2-1 stroke just to refine the edge on the lighter stones. I'll wrap some leather around a pencil and drag each large opening across the leather to clean all of it up. I've never had a problem getting my serrations back to scary sharp.
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+1

That's pretty much how I do it too, I couldn't sharpen serrations at all before I saw this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_8hcCnzaOk Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAs8umcDJOU&feature=relmfu).
 
I use a sharpmaker most of the time or a pro-file set(i only use fine or ultrafine rods).
I touch up the beveled side at 20 degrees until i raise a light burr then i remove the burr with the corner of a balsa strop laying the non beveled side almost flat, once the burr is gone i keep stropping on each side until i can push cut some fine paper or when the edge catches aggressively doing a ‘ samurai hair test ‘
 
RDog said:
Well first I hit just the bevel and deburred the other side, got it to shave a little but not good enough...left a lot of red marks on my leg as well. So I did as spyderco recomends and put a decent edge back on, not like it was out of the box, but good for as much effort as I put into it.

Cutting cardboard was the first thing that a serrated blade let me down on. Sure there are other things like whittling, but I don't find I do that much.

Thanks for the info guys.
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Just keep practicing. When in gets dull, sharpen it, and repeat. Experience with sharpening can be explained, but can't be taught. My dad tried for years trying to teach me to sharpen the kitchen knife with a wet stone when I was a kid, I never could do it until I start using the sharpmaker for a few years and really grasp what it feels like to be hitting the stone with just the edge.

You have already put a better edge on than before and is going the right direction, just keep it up.

SE is not the best for cardboard as it tends to grab the material and tear it up. A thick stock knife like the Tenacious are also bad for binding in cardboard.
 
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