How does one sharpen...

[Omega Leather Works]

Those titanium knives that have a carbonized edge?

I'm thinking knives like a Snody friction folder.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Your question piqued my curiosity. Don't have any of these myself, but still curious about the topic. Did some digging and found this thread in the 'Daniel Fairly Knives' sub-forum:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/878706-How-to-sharpen-Titanium-on-a-budget

He has other info in the thread, but here's an excerpted quote that seems to address the question (on a chisel grind, anyway, coated on one side):

Update - You can use a diamond or ceramic setup (rough is good) on the bevel and strop the carbidized side for maintenance on Ti Knives

David

 

[fervens]

I'm in the same boat as OWE. No experience but am interested. This video looked helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgkBKognjLs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[9blades]

I was under the impression that one of the benefits of a titanium knife with a carbonized edge was it didn't ( need to be sharpened often, or at all. the way it was explained to me is when you cut something the edge with bare titanium wears and the side which is carbonized doesn't (the carbonized surface should be around 70-80 RC IIRC). making it self sharpening, I've handled a couple and they had a similar feel to a knife that had just come of a 300 or 400 grit stone, very toothy. I'm not 100% sure that's all correct though. *throws two pennies at screen*.

Kirby

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

However hard the carbidized edge may be, I get the impression it's a very thin layer/coating, and it still wouldn't be safe from impact damage. In that event, it's good to know there is a way to sharpen it up and/or repair the edge, if needed.


David

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Thanks for the kind words everyone.


Carbidized Titanium is easy to sharpen, just build up a burr by sharpening the non-carbidized side and strop off.

The burr is relatively easy to build up but a bit tougher than normal to remove so keep it on the smaller side. Use a strop or hone to remove the burr.

I have found that just about any sharpening setup will do.


I usually use a scrap of 400 grit sand paper and a home made leather strop for sharpening mine... in general I prefer to stick to cutting softer items or cardboard and let the self sharpening effect do the work for me.

The self sharpening effect is evident when cardboard or abrasive items are cut... the edge never gets scary sharp from more use but does seem to dull then sharpen over more use. I had to try it to believe it! This is great for the general utility user like myself.

For wood carving, bushcraft and chopping I'd stick to steel. I have done extensive testing and the edge holds up very well under hard use. Steel is still the best for carving hard woods...

For daily general use the Carbidized edge is a great aggressive cutter... just plows through softer items like meat and cardboard. No rust, ultralight and easy to maintain.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Those titanium knives that have a carbonized edge?

I'm thinking knives like a Snody friction folder.

Look for a textured silver colored area near the edge to tell... Tungsten Carbide.

Your question piqued my curiosity. Don't have any of these myself, but still curious about the topic. Did some digging and found this thread in the 'Daniel Fairly Knives' sub-forum:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/878706-How-to-sharpen-Titanium-on-a-budget

He has other info in the thread, but here's an excerpted quote that seems to address the question (on a chisel grind, anyway, coated on one side):


David

Just sharpen the one side and strop off...

I'm in the same boat as OWE. No experience but am interested. This video looked helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgkBKognjLs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That is a TiN or Titanium Nitride coating... a bit different than the carbide. In general that type of coating doesn't do much but I have seen it used on nicer knives recently... my guess is that it is more of a protective coating.

I was under the impression that one of the benefits of a titanium knife with a carbonized edge was it didn't ( need to be sharpened often, or at all. the way it was explained to me is when you cut something the edge with bare titanium wears and the side which is carbonized doesn't (the carbonized surface should be around 70-80 RC IIRC). making it self sharpening, I've handled a couple and they had a similar feel to a knife that had just come of a 300 or 400 grit stone, very toothy. I'm not 100% sure that's all correct though. *throws two pennies at screen*.

Kirby

Good stuff there... I wouldn't say Carbidized Titanium doesn't ever need sharpening but it does seem to hold an edge forever with the softer stuff.

True on the toothy edge... you can polish a Ti edge to relatively smooth but the performance is best at the lower grits. If you feel the edge it is like a fine hacksaw.

However hard the carbidized edge may be, I get the impression it's a very thin layer/coating, and it still wouldn't be safe from impact damage. In that event, it's good to know there is a way to sharpen it up and/or repair the edge, if needed.


David

From my experience the carbide will never flake or pop off... it is hard to sandblast or grind off as well. The Titanium holds up relatively well from impact damage but will chip or roll like an other knife can. I did a hard use video where I drilled holes and batoned with m Backpacker model and was happy with the results... there were two small chips that sharpened out in under 30 seconds but that was it.

I take my edges thin on Ti but not as thin as steel near the tip.

Titanium and Carbide will never replace steel but does get a lot of pocket carry from this knifemaker! I really enjoy the way it cuts...

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

^^Thanks very much, Daniel, for your generous feedback here. Always nice to hear from the pros, on topics like this. :thumbup:


David

 

[tiguy7]

I have chisel sharpened knives with carbidized coatings on the non-bevel side. The steel knives have a WC (Tungsten Carbide) coating at 72HRC. The Titanium knives have a TiC coat which is similar in hardness. I sharpen them on SiC and Al2O3 stones. I have the diamond stuff, but it isn't necessary. You can push the burr back into the grinding plane by dragging the coated side, edge trailing, across the side of a ceramic blade.