How far does your lock bar travel?

G

greg c

Joined
Oct 9, 1998
Messages
490
I know lock wear has been hashed and rehashed ad nauseum here.

BUT. . .

I've got a small seb where the lock bar won't touch the other side even when I really mash it, and I want a large Classic that does the same. I know the lockup is solid either way, I just want not to travel all the way over. So my question is, how many large classic seb owners have lockbars that won't touch the nonlocking side, even when you press really hard on it?

Thanks!
 
I don't quite understand what you're wanting/asking. If you don't want it to travel over 100% don't try and push it that way. :confused:

I don't have a large classic, but none of mine travel 100% over.
 
I understand what you are asking Greg. I have a large regular, actually a wood inlaid model, and the locking bar locks at about 30%. I have found that when you dissasemble and put back together that you need to close the blade and tighten the pivot first then tighten the other two screws. For some reason I have always found this method to ensure around a 25 to 30 percent lockup. The end of the spring is also heat treated to make the titanium more wear resistant.
 
The lockbar on my large classic covers about 50% of the tang. If I push the lockbar over, it will cover the entire tang, but will not touch the opposite handle slab.
 
Mine is also 50% and can be pushed to 80%-90%

artsig1, that's not how CRK recommends you assemble it...


Ted
 
It may not be what CRK says, but it works out well for me and it all goes back together correctly. Not sure why doing it this way gives the lockup I mentioned, but it does.

Btw, I've always done things my way......for good or bad!:eek: :eek: :D
 
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