I sharpen alot of other peoples knives and I am always looking new better stones that cut fast. I'm considering of buying DMT dia-sharp extra coarse & coarse plate. What I'd like to know is that how well does DMT extra coarse handle big jobs; rounded, chipped edges.
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How fast does DMT extra coarse cut steel?
- Thread starter J-P SAN
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What have you been using to sharpen knives so far? Lots & lots of variables affecting the working speed of a given hone (steel types, size of hone, technique, etc) depending on what you're comparing to.
In very general terms, I've seldom found a need to even use an XC hone at all for these tasks (edge damage or fully blunt edges). With a bench-sized stone especially, even a Fine or Coarse diamond can usually handle such jobs very easily. I could see using an XC diamond for doing something like acutely re-bevelling a very thick and large blade (6"-8" fixed blade, 1/8"-1/4" spine thickness, for example), where an awful lot of steel needs to come off a previously very obtuse edge. For most jobs involving folder-sized blades or relatively thin & soft/simple steel kitchen knives, I'd probably not feel a need for the XC at all.
David
In very general terms, I've seldom found a need to even use an XC hone at all for these tasks (edge damage or fully blunt edges). With a bench-sized stone especially, even a Fine or Coarse diamond can usually handle such jobs very easily. I could see using an XC diamond for doing something like acutely re-bevelling a very thick and large blade (6"-8" fixed blade, 1/8"-1/4" spine thickness, for example), where an awful lot of steel needs to come off a previously very obtuse edge. For most jobs involving folder-sized blades or relatively thin & soft/simple steel kitchen knives, I'd probably not feel a need for the XC at all.
David
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At the moment my coarsest stone is a 1.75€, 120 mesh, AlOx, 20cm scythe stone which I bought from car store. Next step is double sided Dianova diamond file; 325 mesh and 600 mesh, 20cm. Last step is spydercos fine stone, which has other side polished to almost same grit as spyderco UF, if not even higher; it feels like glass. Scythe stone is great. HOWEVER, I have some kind of obsession towards long lasting, "apocalypse proof" stuff. Scythe stone cuts fast, but it also wears very rapidly. Dianova 325 mesh is very agressive but it still loses to scythe stone in terms of steel removal.
What I have also considered are:
Spyderco medium bench stone; even tough it is clasified as 'fine' stone (around 600-800 mesh?) I've heard that it removes metal quite fast (?)
Norton crystalon; made from silicon carbide, agressive steel remover, but wears notably when compared to spyderco medium stone and DMT diamond plates (?)
DMT extra coarse, being diamond abrassive at 220 mesh sounds like agressive enought to my 'needs'. As grit markings are not always excactly same from maker to maker, I'm concerned about how agressive DMT EC ectually is AND how well it lasts if used with correct pressure.
What I have also considered are:
Spyderco medium bench stone; even tough it is clasified as 'fine' stone (around 600-800 mesh?) I've heard that it removes metal quite fast (?)
Norton crystalon; made from silicon carbide, agressive steel remover, but wears notably when compared to spyderco medium stone and DMT diamond plates (?)
DMT extra coarse, being diamond abrassive at 220 mesh sounds like agressive enought to my 'needs'. As grit markings are not always excactly same from maker to maker, I'm concerned about how agressive DMT EC ectually is AND how well it lasts if used with correct pressure.
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David Martin
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The Spyderco is ceramic. I wouldn't compare that to a SiC. While is doesn't wear/ dish like the SiC and waterstones, it doesn't cut as fast either. The DMT X-coarse cuts on par with the SiC coarse stone. Those two are close. Now the DMT XX coarse cuts fastest and lasts the best. Yet, the diamond stones are pricey. The SiC will cut any steel, is economical but after doing some rebeveling you'll need to flatten it. It's a good workhorse stone.
I've sanded one side of my Spyderco fine ceramic stone finer like you as well. You can tell it feels much finer. DM
I've sanded one side of my Spyderco fine ceramic stone finer like you as well. You can tell it feels much finer. DM
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If you like your scythe stone and want a comparable replacement, get a DMT extra extra course continuous diamond plate. It's a 3" wide x "8 long x 1/4" thick metal plate coated in 120 mesh diamond. As long as you don't abuse it (EG, sharpen too hard and pull the diamond particles loose) it'll last decades. They cut like a file that never dulls.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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If your looking for a diamond plate then the atoma 140 is the way to go. The xcoarse DMT is not a ideal choice for lots of stock removal and it will wear out faster using it as such.
For a stone the Nubatama Bamboo 150 would be a great pick, very slow wearing and is a giant brick of a stone so it should last a very long time. Much faster than any stone you have listed.
For a stone the Nubatama Bamboo 150 would be a great pick, very slow wearing and is a giant brick of a stone so it should last a very long time. Much faster than any stone you have listed.
How much does it cost and where can I buy it? ( I live in Finland)
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XC is no belt sander, but it might be the fastest stone I have seen. The finish from it can also work straight off the stone for tools made for a more coarse edge, like an ax.
I can only recommend the the interrupted stone, though. I bought the continuous stone, and it can clog after just a few passes. Just wipe it with a damp sponge and it will be fine, but it does add a little extra work.
I can only recommend the the interrupted stone, though. I bought the continuous stone, and it can clog after just a few passes. Just wipe it with a damp sponge and it will be fine, but it does add a little extra work.
Then you haven't seen the XXC in action!
Really, seriously, the XXC is a *beast*. It's very impressive in terms of speed.I disagree. I've done some pretty serious metal removal with the XXC and it never clogged. Sure I had metal swarf on the surface and just rinsed it off from time to time. Same deal with the C: Just rinse it and watch the metal dust roll down the drain. It's actually kind of a fun measure for me to see how much gray washes off because it means I did some work on the blade.
I used to use the DMT's dry; that was honestly part of the reason I bought them; so they would be less messy. But I figured out pretty quickly that lubricating them with water with a *tiny* bit of dish soap (like one drop in 2 or 3 ounces of water) made the stones feel better and gave the metal shavings some mobility. I recommend it highly; totally changes the character of the stones for me.
Brian.