How good is Mad Dogs Mirage X?

Joined
May 23, 2000
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8
Does any here have a Mirage X? I have picked one up in a store and examined it and read everything the company has to say about the composite but is it really that durable? Some of the claims regarding its' hardness and flexibilty are pretty hard to believe. I was thinking about picking one up but I don't want to get stuck with a oversize ceramic.
 
It's... fine.

... and I'm a fan of the Dog. The ceramic is interesting from a gadget point of view, and certainly hard as hell.

But the edge leaves something to be desired, and although it appears to be as strong as the claims make it out to be, I can't bring myself to use it that hard. With the other mad dogs, and anything from Busse or Livesay I have no fear using the blades for anything I feel needs doing.
 
I was thinking of getting one too..but the toughness issue really bothers me. I don't want to shell out a lotta bucks for a knife and have it break when i try to use it. Anyone have actual working experience with it? Like chopping or hard cutting?
 
Never, ever chop or pry with a ceramic blade! I don't care what Mad Dog says, but it's simply a bad idea to do that with any kind of ceramic. The Mirage series are meant for deep concealment selfdefense. Not for utility use. Atleast, that's how I see it and I could be wrong
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The MIrage is probably a double baked Zirconium Oxide ceramic. These are fairly strong in comparison to stuff like Boker does. The edge angle is probably left a tad to thick, but I haven't had the chance to handle a Mirage, so I'm guessing. You have to realise that Ceramic is a completely different animal than steel. For it to cut, the angle is somewhat steeper and will not feel as sharp. But the high lubricity of ceramic makes it glide through almost any material...Including meat.
You can get ceramic sharp enough to shave the hairs off your arm, but this is a fairly fragile edge and shouldn't be used to cut anything hard. The utility edge that probably is on the Mirage should hold up a whole lot better. But that doesn't make it a utility knife, so you would be better of forgetting about using it as such.
There, end of rant
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Regards
Joshua "Kage" Calvert

"Move like Water, strike like Thunder..."
 
I do own a MirageX EOD. From my personal and limited experience, I can say this much. Unlike other ceramic blades out there, this one was meant for heavy duty. The blade is extremely thick and stiff. It makes a rather good chopper, but you have to watch your strokes to make sure that there is no rolling or twisting at the end of the stroke. If the edge was left thick enough, there isn't much worry about chipping. But an edge thin enough to slice like the Kyocera knives is prone to chipping. I'm still experimenting with it to find a good compromise. The trouble is that it takes so long to sharpen, and even more so when one needs to grind out a chipped portion. This stuff is really hard! Oh, and like everyone else advises, don't try and pry with it. It's probably bad juju 'cause ceramic, no matter how thick, is brittle and prone to snapping.

My advise is that unless you really have so much cash to splurge, or you really want an interesting addition to your collection, or you're a SEAL and need a zero metal signature knife for your work, go get something else. It's not really user friendly, and you can probably get a better bang for your buck on, say, the Camillus Talonite blade.
 
I do not have any ceramic blades, although I have been tempted many times.

Ceramic research continues, and may in some number of years yield something for the knife world that is "better" than say the CPM steels seem to be... a magic "steel" for knives if you will. But in year 2000, I'd say look elsewhere...back to metal matrices.

We use ceramic trim inside of metal bodied control valves at work (Petrochem industry), but only in specific applications where erosion caused by high pressure drops and erosive particulate impingement and severe wear make this necessary.

Ceramic is VERY erosion resistant. (it happens to be widely Corrosion resistant also).

Erosion isn't the right term for what we want in knife use. We want "abrasion" resistance, and the two are joined at the hip but not identical. Abrasion has to do with frictional degradation... erosion more with high speed particulate bombardment and micro-chipping kind of wear. I'm no metallurgist, so hope that simplistic description makes some sense. We want abrasion resistance in slicing things. (or toughness via Charpy in chopping things).

Ceramic offers erosion resistance something like 3 to 4 times better than Stellite ("Talonite" and "Cobalt" alloys from the likes of David Boye are versions of what is most commonly and "sans-marketing-hype" called Stellite).

I'm not sure how ceramic and stellite compare in abrasion resistance. Ceramic probably wins.

Ceramic, however, has these drawbacks compared with stellite, 440C, ATS-34, etc:

1. Ceramic is very, very hard, usually Rockwell C scale around 70 or better, and hardness, without any exceptions I'm aware of, means brittle. Brittle means chipped edges, and poor impact resistance in cutlery. Just like diamonds are super hard and will scratch anything, and are bound up in metal matrixes to cut/grind many things in industry, yet you can shatter a diamond crystal with a hammer blow rather simply.

(you can have hard carbides embedded in a softer steel matrix, and the hard carbides tend to cut while the matrix is tough and holds them together, but the Rockwell hardness reading is an aggregate matrix reading as we receive it in Rockwell C scale usually. Has to do with the measurement method....literally, Rockwell machines I've seen use a very hard pointed probe and a known force to make a dimple in the metal, and the depth of the dimple indicates the hardness. Obviously this isn't a measure that gets down into the molecular or even particle level of hardness testing)

2. Ceramic has poor tolerance to temperature shock. If you take a control valve, run hot steam through it, then shock it with cold water, pow.... the ceramic will shatter. Now, is this an issue for knives? Maybe not. It illustrates a weakness of ceramic however. You may or may not encounter in the kitchen unless you deliberately tried .... you might be able to deep freeze and then shock a ceramic knife into shattering with hot water. Don't stick a ceramic knife into hot oil or bacon grease!

3. You are relegated to diamond stones with ceramic knives, which I use anyway, but that can be an issue.

4. Reports are all that you can't get the kind of super fine edge, shaving sharp, on ceramic. Nor can you get a "toothy", grabby edge nearly as easily on ceramic vs. steel, the edges tend to be super smooth, like you'd need for precision leather work or shaving, except ceramic is hard to get shaving sharp due to the line width of the edge...it's limit is thicker than metal I guess.

No ceramic knife blades for me, anyway, in year 2000. Maybe in 2010. Or 2020.
 
As far as the MD MirageX series goes, it is not designed as a substitute for steel knives. The MirageX was designed for special purpose use where steel knives couldn't be employed successfully (e.g. highly corrosive environments, very heavy duty cutting, magnetically sensitive areas, etc.,)

The MirageX series knives were not designed to be used for prying, and using it as a prybar is not recommended (though MD has prybars made out of the MirageX material that are amazingly tough.)

The MirageX knives cut very well through media such as cardboard and rope (and will cut nearly forever) and can be used for light chopping tasks through american hardwoods without difficulty. They cut clothing and flesh surprisingly well, which makes them very good defensive tools.

Tim
http://www.streetpro.com
Street Smart Professional Equipment
 
"which makes them very good defensive tools."

Would the knife stand up to a hard thrust into bone?

Will
 
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