How hard are stop pins?

[Matt Shade]

I ordered a 605 special kit designed by DArrel Ralph and am going to make it and give it to my brother as a late graduation present. I probably won't get it until the end of this week at the earliest and he graduates on Saturday but oh well.
Any how I have a scrap of ATS34 that I thought I could use to make a file worked spacer for the back of the knife. Its not heat treated and I'd rather not spend the time to send it out for heat treat. Would I be able to get it hard enough heating it with a propane torch or in a fire and then quenching it in motor oil to incorporate it as the stop? Or would that not work at all? I can always just have it start right behind the stop and leave it unhardened. As long as it has enough corrosian resistance without being heat treated. What do you guys think? Any different ideas ?
Thanbks alot.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.

 

[tom mayo]

you have asked a very complicated question. first of all....ats and all of the air hardening tool steels gain much of their corrosion resistance at high hardness...over 56.....so it isnt very rust free at the annealed state....and your stop pin hardness is relative to how much surface area it has. if it is big, or large surface to surface, you dont need it to be nearly as hard as a round pin....

[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 05-29-2000).]

 

[Matt Shade]

Thanks Tom
I think I'll just pass it off as a bad idea this time. I thought of doing it yesterday when I saw a thread on file work, if I'd thought of it when I was making the order I'd have ordered some 416 or 303 stainless to use and just made the spacer start behind the stop pin.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.