How high do you like your scandi grind? On contrary how low?

[Bladenoobie1]

I'm getting a custom "bushcraft" scandi knife done by one of the makers here on BF. With a scandi grind, I understand the higher the grind is, the weaker the edge will be whereas the lower the grind the stronger the edge will be as more steel will be behind it.

I want the most cutting performance possible, but at the same time I don't want my edge to chip and roll too frequently. So to those who have scandi grind knives and use them frequently, how high or low do you like the grind to be at?

Thanks,
BN

EDIT: How high of a scandi grind would a 30 degrees inclusive edge be on a 5/32" stock?

 

[Adventure Sworn]

I'm not positive as to the exact angle, but in order to find the proper angle for a true scandi (flat), this is a good general rule. Make the depth of the bevel twice as tall as the thickness of the spine. So for a 4mm (5/32 inch) thick spine, an 8mm deep bevel would do. A 3mm thick spine, a 6mm deep bevel will do. This is especially a good rule to follow if you prefer a "true scandi" with virtually no micro-bevel at all. I personally wouldn't recommend going any steeper, though more shallow often doesn't hurt.

I used to follow this rule very closely, but recently I have been going a hint more shallow (8.5 or so instead of 8). This is primarily because many of my customers (myself included) tend to put on a slight micro-bevel in the field. Which would bring me to another simple rule: The stronger the micro-bevel, the more shallow the scandi bevel should be. For example, a scandivex grind (which has a somewhat convex nature to it) is perhaps 10mm deep or more on a 4mm thick blade.

Good post, good questions.

 

[Thomas Linton]

There probably is a reason why so few knives are made in Scandinavia and Finland that have the so-called "Scandi" grind. The vast, vast majority have one or more of: secondary bevel; hollow-ground primary bevel; convex bevel.

 

[Rich S]

Lots of Nordic knives have a Scandi grind. Although since most are machine ground, they do tend to have a slight secondary micro bevel (easily removed with a little honing). I prefer my primary bevel about 1/2 the blade like most Finnish knives. I don't really care for the very narrow bevel that's seen on many Norwegian knives. The older Swedish knives (circa 1950) also have a high bevel. Don't like the modern Mora knives - all plastic, etc. I prefer natural materials: wood handles, iron or brass fittings, good laminated or differentially tempered blades and leather sheathes.

Rich S

 

[awestib]

In my own experience use a 1/8 inch thickness O1 or A2 steel and a 12.5 dps. Overtime with freehand sharpening, you will produce a slight convex bevel with a little more final apex angle.

 

[Thomas Linton]

Lots of Nordic knives have a Scandi grind. Although since most are machine ground, they do tend to have a slight secondary micro bevel (easily removed with a little honing). I prefer my primary bevel about 1/2 the blade like most Finnish knives. I don't really care for the very narrow bevel that's seen on many Norwegian knives. The older Swedish knives (circa 1950) also have a high bevel. Don't like the modern Mora knives - all plastic, etc. I prefer natural materials: wood handles, iron or brass fittings, good laminated or differentially tempered blades and leather sheathes.

Rich S

Relatively few Nordic knives have a "Scandi" grind -- although probably more do since it was popularized by UK bushcrafters. Even fewer keep a "Scandi" grind in use. Nordic custom makers, including the then moderator of the Scandinavian Knife Forum, have posted as much at British Blades but gave up when no one would pay attention.

As for "Well, it's only a micro-bevel," that's like "She's only a little pregnant."