How Horrid Is It?

afishhunter

afishhunter

Gold Member
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Oct 21, 2014
Messages
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Just fiished adding the small crescent.
I tried wet molding, but lacked sufficient clamps. Hopefully the crescent will help it hold shape and fit.
Knife is a Cold Steel KK20 KUDU ring lock, or KR20 KUDU slipjoint.

I know it is a horrible sheath. However, it won't be seen when used to carry the knife like a Sgian Dbuh when I am kilted.
(worn in "strong side" ... like I have a "strong" side. I'm pretty sure both sides are rather weak 🙄 ... sock.)
(swivel snap hook on the KK20 will be removed when kilted.)
View attachment 2365358
Back-stitched 1 stitch (into edge stitching) at the open end. Stitched into edge stitcing at the closed end, then back stitched two stitches and trimmed thread flush. I think (hope) the stitching will not loosen.
 
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Did you glue the edge together before stitching?

Cigarette lighter to melt the stitch pig tails?


I doubt it'll come apart. But if it does, it's an easy fix.


You mentioned wet molding. The leather looks oil tanned. The one leather you don't wet mold.
 
Looks serviceable to me.
Making a functional sheath is the most important part.

Worry about looks later if you care.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
Did you glue the edge together before stitching?

Cigarette lighter to melt the stitch pig tails?


I doubt it'll come apart. But if it does, it's an easy fix.


You mentioned wet molding. The leather looks oil tanned. The one leather you don't wet mold.
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The edge stitching only, when I made the sheath.

The edge stitching only so far. Still need to do the crescent.

Figures.☹️🙄
I was not aware of that. Thank you for letting me know.

I'm not sure if oil or veggie tanned. I'll have to check the Amazon listing.
EDIT: Yep. Oil Tanned.
 
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afishhunter said:
The edge stitching only, when I made the sheath.
The edgestitching only so far. Still need to do the crescent.
Figures.☹️🙄
I was not awware of that.Thank you for letting me know.
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I've made several sheaths without using leather glue.
It'll be fine- it's just more security and a prettier finished product.

Melting the ends of the thread is additional security, too.
Usually mine are tied together between the leather using a reef (or square) knot.

The great thing about working with leather is that if the stitching comes undone, just re-stitch it.
I did that once and it was easier than stitching the first time.
 
Use rubber cement.

Rubber cement is easy to sew through. Don't use super glue or gorilla glue type stuff. Because it's an absolute nightmare to push a needle through.
 
Grasshopperglock said:
Use rubber cement.

Rubber cement is easy to sew through. Don't use super glue or gorilla glue type stuff. Because it's an absolute nightmare to push a needle through.
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I have a 4 ounce Aleene's Leather & Suede Glue. (best (cheapest) price for the $$$/vs ounces of leather glue)

I'll get some rubber cement. I remember that is what we used in leather shoppe when I was in Junior High, 50 odd year ago.

I need some for my bicycle/adult tricylce tube patches, anyway.
(too many goats head/"sandburrs" in North America ... possibly?... probably? ... everywhere on this planet.)
 
afishhunter said:
I have a 4 ounce Aleene's Leather & Suede Glue. (best (cheapest) price for the $$$/vs ounces of leather glue)

I'll get some rubber cement. I remember that is what we used in leather shoppe when I was in Junior High, 50 odd year ago.

I need some for my bicycle/adult tricylce tube patches, anyway.
(too many goats head/"sandburrs" in North America ... possibly?... probably? ... everywhere on this planet.)
Click to expand...



I once made a double layer belt. Had the crazy idea to use some construction epoxy(I found) to glue both sides together. Bad mistake. The sewing was a nightmare. It was more difficult to poke the needle through the glue then it was the leather. It was like a thin, extra durable, sheet of plastic in between the leather. Ended up using a drill press to push the needle through. Had to.

I learned my lesson but good.

(I still use a drill press to push the needle. Keeping it perfectly up and down. But with rubber cement. It's much more easy.)
 
Heres what I learned from the Godfather of sheath makers Sandy Morissey. Glue with contact cement, he and I used Weldwood. Its stays flexible and has a very strong bond. They have both regular and water based, both are excellent.

Try to get vegetable tanned leather if at all possible, its easier to work and the edges are much easier to finish.

Your stitching lines are really good, just practice and a good stitching groover will help. Pricking irons will help with the spacing.

Lastly, he drilled me, NEVER stop learning, NEVER stop seeking new methods and tools. BUT the tools dont make the craftsman, Skill and practice make the craftsman. Practice Practice Practice, and read and never be too proud to ask questions, but you already got that one in hand.

Well done and keep getting better, you've got a good solid start

I do miss my godfather in sheathmaking, I feel so fortunate to be among those he called his sons.
 
Rubber cement is used when you might have to reposition something after glueing. Often say on a gusset on a bag where both ends of the gusset have to be finished. So you can do all the measuring and math in the world but until you glue that gusset up to the side of the bag you never know for sure. So ya rubber cement it on, mark it, pull it off and finish the gusset on the second side. Then you glue er back up with contact cement. On a sheath where you are not repositioning any parts, contact cement. I too like Dwayne use Weldwood. I use the green can which is water based formulation. Been using it for a very long time, probably a tanker truck's worth.
 
Ebbtide said:
Do your awl and needles get all gummy with the green can weldwood?
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Nope course I'm machine sewing but the needle doesn't get gummy. Very few glue lines too and it ain't burning brain cells. Got other plans for those guys after a long day at the cutting table:

vzpv8Ie.jpg
 
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