How I bought a rug and met a kami

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Nov 3, 1998
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I was in the tower yesterday with Sgt Davis, since Howard was released from his profile. Sgt. Davis opened the door, returning from lunch.
“Sorry I’m late,” he said. “The line in the check-cashing place took a while.”
“What did you need cash for, sergeant?”
Sgt. Davis looked over at me, with his typical front-teeth visible chipmunk look.
“Oh, today’s the bazaar.”
“The bazaar?”
“You know where I got those chess sets and tea sets and stuff.”
Ah. Right.

Later, I asked the sergeant if I could go with him.
“Now, what I do,” he said with a grin, “is put 20 dollars in this pocket, and 30 dollars in this pocket, and another 20 dollars in this pocket, and 40 dollars in this pocket.”
“So you can reach into a pocket, and say, ‘this is all I have’.”
“Right. And they’ll, what they’ll usually say, is, ‘well, if that’s all you have, I guess I’ll take it.’”

I cashed a check for $140- I only have three left now, I believe- to have cash, and I still had $10 left from my casual pay withdrawal three weeks ago. I changed out of my uniform, and into PTs, and we went.

The bazaar consisted of a section near the outer wall of Camp Phoenix, just a little inside from Jalalabad Road. The vendors were packed next to each other in little stall-sized areas, covered by tarps. Boys, and a few men, prowled the aisles with Afghan money, trinkets, and even wooden snakes. Sergeant Davis had warned me that they would “get in my face”- meaning inside my comfort zone, but that rarely happened with me, though I kept my unloaded M4 ready, in case I needed to “accidentally” crack someone on the shins to make space. Perhaps because I was ready, I didn’t need to employ my crowd-parting device.

Towards the end of my tour through the booths, I stopped and talked to Mashook, a man selling knives. He had several kukuris, that he called ghurkas. I picked up a kukuri that was about 14” long. It was full tang, with a ground edge, and he said that he got the metal from a rocket. He wanted $110. Wow. I’ve seen better kukuris from HI for $40, and under prodding, I told him so. He pulled out a notebook with some scribbled prices in it, to “prove” to me that I couldn’t get a kukuri for less than he was asking (he would have taken $80). I also lost most of my interest in dealing with him when he assured me that he had made all the knives in front of him, when I could see the industrial stamp on a factory made knife.

Next to Mashook was a dealer selling rugs.
“Look, I show you,” he said. I was really looking for a smaller rug, really a 2x3’ piece or so, and this was much larger.
“That’s very nice,” I agreed. “How much?”
$550.
Look at the colors, he told me. Look at the stitching.
“Nice, tight knots,” I agreed. “It’s beautiful. I just don’t have that money with me.”
“How much?” he asked. “How much you want pay?”
“Oh, I can’t afford this,” I told him honestly.
“How much you have? For you…I go four-ninety.”
“That’s very fair, I’m sure,” I assured him. “That’s probably too cheap. I just don’t have that kind of money. And I don’t need something this large. Do you have something a little smaller?”
“Too big? Not too big. You take home, you like.”
“I live in a small space.” I indicated an area about the size of the rug. “My space is only about this big, including my bed; not much room for a rug.”
“You hang on wall.”
“This is a very nice rug, and I wish I could get it. But it’s too big, and I don’t have the money for it.”
He finally produced a smaller rug, still larger than what I had envisioned, but half the size of the first one.
“Camel wool,” he said, rubbing his hand across the surface. “More expensive than sheep.”
“How much you want?”
“For you, I go- two-twenty.”
“Wow, that’s very fair.”
“You buy?”
“I’m sorry, I just don’t have that much on me.”
“How much you have?”
“Oh, I don’t have enough.”
“How much?”
“It’s not enough. I don’t want to insult you.”
Eventually, I apologized for even entering his stall, with his fine rugs, for wasting his precious, valuable time. He agreed-finally- to take $140, because he wanted repeat customers, he said. I had wanted to keep my other $10, so I’d have a little cash left for the next two weeks, but when I gave him the $140, and he saw I had another $10, he said he’d agreed for $150. What the hell. All the during this time, Mashook was stalking by, trying to get me to buy his kukuri. I guess he thought my statement about value was a bargaining tactic, and he kept asking, “how much you pay?” I already told you, you bastard. Back off.

So, I don’t know if I got taken, broke even, or made out. Matter of perspective, I guess. But I should have listened to Sergeant Davis.
 
Wonderful story.

It all sounded like too much money, though.
Foreign servicemen must have screwed up the local economy.
140 bucks for a small rug in-country? Nepal kamis make 49 cents an hour or something.


munk
 
Great story John.

I don't think you paid too much. If it is a well made rug it will last forever and $150 is ridiculously cheap by our standards.

Sure, it might be a lot by local standards, I wouldn't know.

But, none of us here mind supporting kami's in Nepal, and feel they should be allowed to make a good living. No difference for rug makers in Afghanistan.


~ B
 
The value to you is in where you bought it and the circumstances you bought it under.

You will have it a life time like the items my Dad handed down to me from WWII.

And that, as they say, is priceless.
 
288ab7ce.jpg


Rifle for scale...
 
You know, the value HI provides us was really brought home when I was looking at the kuks Mashook actually made. The one I was interested in was a decent piece, but I'd take a 14" BDC for that $80 instead, every time.

The rug is about 32x50"

Glad y'all liked the story.
 
We call rugs like that, "Stained glass windows for the floor."

Wonderful rug you have there, and a priceless story with it. It will last forever and your great grandchildren will be still enjoying it.

The Afghans have some really interesting "war rugs" also, but they are not as beautiful as yours.
 
I think the rug looks great.

Your rifle is set up much like mine, BUIS, Aimpoint, nice rig.
 
Neat story, thanks for sharing :)

The days of folks going there to buy quality Afghan rugs at dirt cheap prices for extremely high resale and profit gain Stateside, are surely in it's last days. If the Afghanistan situation continues to more or less keep on stabilizing and growing (government and politics), and, if Nato and US soldiers continue to show these people that their wares are desirable and have high dollar value, I can see a path that is leading to cutthroat dealers no longer being able to take advantage.

The more the word gets out that their wares are fetching real good money, and that the market of these items will grow as a more free society grows in Afghanistan, then the usual dealers will have to pay much higher dollar amounts to purchase these goods (them having to pay much more fair prices for them). This will greatly cut these cutthroat "fatcat" dealer profits. They will have to pay more for these rugs, but at the same time they will need to be more competitive in their pricing, since the more free society will also allow and entice more dealers to enter the fray. More competition will mean lower prices, allowing more folks to be able to afford these awesome rugs that may not have been afordable to them before.

Not all will be good news though. I'm sure that a more robust market will also bring a lot of mediocre quality rugs. Investment by outsiders will also probably bring "cut corner" methods that may not hurt quality so much, but may eliminate much of the hand craftsmanship that these rugs have always been famous for (all in the new goal to cut production time and to enhance production numbers) .

I think that there may very well be a time, near in our future, where there will be a big seperation of desirability between pre war, war/occupation, and post war/occupation Afghan rugs.

The pre war and war/occupation period rugs will most likely command the higher prices, where the post war will probably be lessened greatly in desirability and value.

Time will tell :)
 
45-70 said:
I think the rug looks great.

Your rifle is set up much like mine, BUIS, Aimpoint, nice rig.

I LOVE the links you have in your sig! 45-70! Suggest everyone scroll up and read them!
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Sorry, don't mean to hyjack the thread and a discussion of those links might be better in W&C, but sure are worth reading! 45-70 if you don't post them there, I will!
 
Jimmy,

I can see the varying levels of quality, at least to some degree. I saw some much less expensive rugs, but could tell at a glance they were not of nearly as high quality (not saying they were "inferior", just working class. ;)).
 
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