How I contour and polish an edge.

Joined
Oct 14, 2009
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1,377




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This is a very old Sharpmaker. Came with brown and white rods. White went straight into the trash.


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As you can see from the above two photos, the point of mine is ground down and is nice and flat. Best way I can describe this is there is a shell or glaze on the rods. Once you break through that coating and get into the meat of the rod, then it will start to do some work. Before that, it barely take any metal away. As it gets fouled up with steel, I use a wet cloth or papertowel folded a few time to remove the build up. The towel will get black. You need to do this so the rods will keep cutting.

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Here is my 5 that is contoured and polished. You can see that the coating has also been worn away where it starts to meet the edge. That is how far I lay the knife over when I am working on the rods.

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I start with the knife straight up and down. I'll run the blade up and down the rod. As I do so, I'll slowly vary the angle. Laying it back further and further. This gives it a rounded, sort of convexed appearance.

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You can see that the knife is laying over a little more in each photo. How far you go is up to you. I've been doing this for 20 years so I can do it quickly and with just feel. Once you get into a rhythm, it is a breeze.

After I'm done getting the exact shape and bevel I want, then I'll rotate the rods so the larger flat area is exposed and then start over. The flats are not worn down and barely take any metal away. Therefore, they polish the edge. The result is below.

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I was wondering how you re-edged your blades. Thanks for the post! I do the like how the Sharpmaker was designed.
 
Great post!

In your experience, do you prefer this to the mousepad method?
That is what I am trying right now and am ok with the results so far,
but am very open to other techniques.
 
TG ; is that brown rod worn down from only use or did you grind some off to get at the more aggressive centre? I'm liking the idea of alternating the angle to suit the edge. Good stuff.
 
Tom, I've been sharpening blades for a long time and use the same method but with regular bench stones. I've never really understood the need for mouse pads and other tricks to get a convex edge. One just slowly varies the angle as Tom shows and it can be done (even with bench stones).

Vin
 
Great post! Do you strop them after?

Nope. All I do is what I described. The flat sides of the rods do the stropping. It puts a nice finish on.


TG ; is that brown rod worn down from only use or did you grind some off to get at the more aggressive centre? I'm liking the idea of alternating the angle to suit the edge. Good stuff.

I used the handle portion of a large bastard file to break through the outer coating and wear it down. Just enough to get to the rougher inner. Then it just keeps wearing down over the years.


Great post!

In your experience, do you prefer this to the mousepad method?
That is what I am trying right now and am ok with the results so far,
but am very open to other techniques.


No Mouse pad. Just Sharpmaker.


Tom, I've been sharpening blades for a long time and use the same method but with regular bench stones. I've never really understood the need for mouse pads and other tricks to get a convex edge. One just slowly varies the angle as Tom shows and it can be done (even with bench stones).

Vin

I did that as well with a large DMT the first time on an ESEE-5. Then finished it off on the Sharpmaker.
 
That's a great tutorial.

What grit was your DMT stone....coarse or fine? I think x coarse might be too scratchy and xx coarse out of the equation altogether...
 
I start with a coarse stone and put ~12 -15 degree edge (flat or v grind), then work to the finer stones and knock off the bevel on the V grind at an even shallower angle.

Then I slowly use a medium to fine stones and vary the angle till I get to about 20-23 degrees per side. When you vary the angle it looks like a convex grind. I then use card board or a very fine stone to strop the edge.

Vin
 
That's a great tutorial.

What grit was your DMT stone....coarse or fine? I think x coarse might be too scratchy and xx coarse out of the equation altogether...

It is an old one and is blue. I know they used to color code things.
 
The black is extra-coarse, blue is coarse, red is fine, green extra fine, yellow extra extra fine. Not too sure what XX coarse is off the top of my head.

Anyways, great tutorial.
 
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