How important is a figure 8 pattern when flattening water-stones?

[KennyB]

Does the figure 8 pattern have any effect on flatness when flattening water-stones, or is it just so that all for corners of the stone are flattened equally so the surface doesn't slant to one side or the other?

 

[stitchawl]

Circles in both directions, figure 8s, large X'... If you make a large X on the stone with a pencil, even rubbing back and forth until the X is gone will work fine. If the stone's surface is somewhat slanted... so what? Just tilt your knife to match. The front surface of most Japanese sword sharpeners is rounded downward while the middle is often dished out 1/4 of an inch. As long as you keep the same angle relative to the edge, it doesn't matter what shape the stone is in. I've seen pro's sharpening on stones dished out more than my soup bowls. The idea of micrometer flat stones is nice, but not really needed if you know how to sharpen. I've read posts by people here who say they flatten after every use. It's not surprising that they need to buy new stones often. They grind away more stone by flattening than by sharpening! If your stone is getting dished, sharpen on the ends and even it out.


Stitchawl

 

[rpttrsn]

I was taught 45 years ago to use the figure 8 if you are looking to keep the thickness the same. You seem to apply more even pressure in every direction of the item when doing it this way. It still can be flat using many other methods as mentioned by Stichawl.
Ron

 

[Jason B.]

I angle the flattener from corner to corner and turn the stone after a few laps, I usually only flatten when I sharpen a razor or if its really needed. As stitch said though, some put way to much emphasis on flat stones.

 

[KennyB]

I angle the flattener from corner to corner and turn the stone after a few laps, I usually only flatten when I sharpen a razor or if its really needed. As stitch said though, some put way to much emphasis on flat stones.

Yeah, I don't really obsess over flattening, but sometimes I wind up wearing a groove into the stone at an awkward spot that's just too irritating to work around. I found that flattening in a circular motion was much faster than the figure 8, so wondered how much it really mattered.

 

[Jason B.]

I only did the figure 8 on the sidewalk with aluminum oxide stones, more surface area to work with. Doing the 8 on two similar size 8x3 stones never seemed to easy.

 

[KennyB]

I only did the figure 8 on the sidewalk with aluminum oxide stones, more surface area to work with. Doing the 8 on two similar size 8x3 stones never seemed to easy.

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've flattened on a sidewalk or concrete floor with sand on it before, but on the flattening stone it's not much bigger than the Norton so if I try to trace a large figure 8 pattern, I go over the edges and stuff. So I have to trace a small figure 8, and that takes a while. Just using a circular motion seems a lot faster.

I like the idea someone suggested of just using a circular motion, and flipping the stone over to the other side intermittedly. Seems like that'd make life simpler

 

[HeavyHanded]

Yeah, I don't really obsess over flattening, but sometimes I wind up wearing a groove into the stone at an awkward spot that's just too irritating to work around. I found that flattening in a circular motion was much faster than the figure 8, so wondered how much it really mattered.

Removing that groove is something I ran into with waterstones as well. Have used a similar sized stone to flatten many times, circular clockwise, counter clockwise, then spin the stone 180 and repeat. If you can manage it, working the entire stone surface will negate the need to do this. You flatten it with the tools you're sharpening, with practice it becomes 2nd nature.

 

[Magnaminous_G]

I use back-and-forth, circles, and whatever strikes my fancy. It will eventually get flat whatever you do because you're grinding away high spots. When there are no more high spots to grind, the surface--by definition--is flat.


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