How loosen up kydex

L

longbow

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Jan 9, 1999
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So took delivery of a kydex sheath by a well known make yesterday. This is for my 311. So the thing is a bear to get the knife in and out of. What is a fix for this. Don't want to cob the sheath up as it took about 3 wks of waiting to get. thanks
 
Try putting some liquid wax on the sheath. Especially on the parts that contact the knife. Might work, might not. It's what we use for pistols and tight kydex holsters. It works sometimes.
 
Easy to fix, easy to screw up. Have the maker adjust it for you, as once you try to do it yourself, you won't have any recourse.
 
Hair dryer and a little time. Heat gun will work faster, but unless you have used a heat gun on kydex, don't. Finally, you can heat it in a 200 degree ish oven until it's pliable and reform it, but do so at the risk it will not work as well as you originally bought it.
I've done all of the above, and the all work, but when you pay for the sheath, be prepared to ruin it if you do it wrong.

Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya?
 
..just a thought, does it have a thumb ramp? did you try to push down on and it`s still tight?
 
I assume this is the Scrap Yard Knives 311, if so its a Resiprene C handle (ie think vulcanized rubber) its going to want to stick to everything it come in to contact with no matter the material. A minimalist approach to the sheath as far as the handle is concerned is the best solution.

Leather pouch sheaths for rubber handled knives almost have to have a drop out retention in order to keep them somewhat easy to draw, any snugness is cause for issues.
 
I loosened my b10 kydex sheath with a hairdryer. Just do it eeeever so slowly and you'll be fine.
 
If you heat with a hair dryer, it won't get it so hot to melt it. As it heats, it will relax some, attempting to return to its original shape (flat). I've done this on holsters before around the trigger guard that where a bit too tight. It's very easy to, but, like someone said, easy to go too far also. Just be very patient.
 
leatherman said:
I assume this is the Scrap Yard Knives 311, if so its a Resiprene C handle (ie think vulcanized rubber) its going to want to stick to everything it come in to contact with no matter the material. A minimalist approach to the sheath as far as the handle is concerned is the best solution.
Click to expand...

Aint that the truth! Until I started using my tiny brain I had nothing but fits with making sheaths for knives with res-c. Have never not had fiddle with the opening after all cleaned and sealed. I always set my eyelets a little lower on a res-c sheath to minimize handle retention and add them if need be when all done, has saved me a many headaches.

Also using a heat guy is not hard, just keep the heat moving and start with slow cycles. Do not keep the heat on any one spot for too long. Another conservative approach is to only keep the heat on one side to start. After a few cycles if not getting the results you are after then try both sides. Also I like to give it a little ole fashion "in out in out" while its still warm. I would however keep exceptions low as the mold around the handle is likely minimal as is so you may end up creating a little bit of play. Good luck bro
Cheers
Eric

eta-does it have an attachment on it?
 
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If you "loosen" it up I'd stay from the thumb-push area since it will try to go back to it's original form... I'm positive the problem you're having is at the finger-guard since that's the main piece of real estate that protrudes from the handle and that the Kydex "grabs" onto. Res-C handles are tricky to make sheaths for and hard to pull off right.

I'd go with Mikes advice and send it back to the maker and address the problem, Res-C is tough stuff but a poorly designed sheath will put some wear and tear on it over time.

Good luck,

Eli
 
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