How many of you own the Sharpmaker?

rc3mil

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And how hard do you find it is, to reprofile the 20' factory edge down to 15' using the diamond rods?
 
I own the Sharpmaker and I reprofiled the factory edge down to 15* using the diamond rods, if we're talking 15 & 15 being a 30* inclusive grind.

It was simple on one side but the other was a bit tougher since I was hitting powder coat.

Just a bit of patience and blowing the dust of the rods - took about 30 minutes start to finish then stropped it with green compund on leather for a bit.

I enjoy sharpening so it was fun. :)
 
I used the stock rods...it took forever but it did it. Biggest issue is getting through that powder coating, it tends to slide on the normal rods.

Now I use a benchstone to do the dirty work, and then touch up on the sharpmaker.
 
I own a Sharpmaker, and have used to do exactly what you describe is needed. My experience using the diamond rods was not an "easy" one. It took some time for sure, but you'll get there...just go into it knowing it will take a while and you won't get frustrated.
 
I'm with Dizwolf,Benchstones(diamond)for reprofiling edges and my 20 year old sharpmaker for touching up.I've since added a stropbat from JRE Industries for the final polishing.
 
I find it worlds more efficients to use a DMT benchstone for reprofiling, and the sharpmaker for sharpening and microbevels. Never saw reprofiling with the SM as very practical, unless it was a very minor job or you own no other suitable tools.
 
I've reprofiled a few knives with the sharpmaker and diamond rods. Its time consuming, but its pretty straightforward from my experience
 
I have a DMT Aligner - it is pretty easy to reprofile an edge with that. I just choose the angle and use the coursest diamond stone I have, once the edge has be ground right I then go through the finer stones until it is nicely polished, then I finish on a strop.
 
I have two of them and two Edge Pro sharpeners as well as some Razor Edge dry hones, diamond sharpeners from EzeLapp and DMT as well as Smith's and Lansky. All of them get used too and my favorite is the Edge Pro but with that said the Edge Pro and all these others combined don't get used as much as the Sharpmaker.

STR
 
I have a sharpmaker and do not care for it all that much.The diamond rods are a must for re-profiling or you might wanna invest in a kegerator cuz your gonna be there a long while without them. Just personal preference i guess. At this point everything i own is a convex grind either by purchase or re-profile and i have never regretted it.
 
The Sharpmaker is more a maintenance type sharpener designed for touching up edges that still have a decent bevel. For reprofiling the edge to create a new bevel you really need something like an Edge Pro to do it right for a nice even bevel and do it both effectively and quickly.

STR
 
Just an aside:

I used the "Edgemaker Pro" pull through set of 4 stages of rods, which are great for kitchen knives, but I tried it on one of my good Benchmade blades to get a very small bevel (it's probably 20*) and then to put a fatter micro bevel over it. DON'T USE THIS ONE! (except for kitchen & filet knives)

(Their website says they work on BM and Spyderco)

Things went very well for a bit, then on one of the pulls, the rods chattered and put three small, ugly chips in my blade edge. One was deep!

It took approx. four to five hours of honing on my Spyderco sharpmaker - including the diamond rods, to get the blade back to normal again.

I learned my lesson the hard way. Never - Ever Again!

I'm thinking of buying another system or buggering up some cheap pocket knives on DMT diamond benchstones until I learn how to freehand.
 
Just an aside:

I used the "Edgemaker Pro" pull through set of 4 stages of rods, which are great for kitchen knives, but I tried it on one of my good Benchmade blades to get a very small bevel (it's probably 20*) and then to put a fatter micro bevel over it. DON'T USE THIS ONE! (except for kitchen & filet knives)

(Their website says they work on BM and Spyderco)

Things went very well for a bit, then on one of the pulls, the rods chattered and put three small, ugly chips in my blade edge. One was deep!

It took approx. four to five hours of honing on my Spyderco sharpmaker - including the diamond rods, to get the blade back to normal again.

I learned my lesson the hard way. Never - Ever Again!

I'm thinking of buying another system or buggering up some cheap pocket knives on DMT diamond benchstones until I learn how to freehand.

I have sharpened countless production folding knives including Benchmades and Spydercos with my Edge Pro models and find its the best of the sharpeners out there. You could set your EP at 18 degrees and sharpen knives even of the same model and get various looking bevels. This has more to do with the primary grind and final thickness as it tapers toward where the edge will be on the blade than it does the settings or angle of your sharpening. A fatter blade will have a wider looking bevel whereas a thin one will have a smaller looking less width bevel to it even if sharpened at the same angle setting on your sharpener. This can even carry over from one side to another on a folder where the logo side has a bevel wider or thinner looking than the opposite side.

STR
 
it takes ages on the sharp maker , i have one and total dig it for touching up an edge real fast... the safety rods have saved me once or twice when i was being careless and in a hurry. then a good quick strop and there nice and ready to go.... i would never reprofile a knife on it again if i can avoid it.bench stone is probably faster and easier for me ... im not a fan of the lansky set ups they annoy me , my friends edge pro is better , but i opted for a bench sander instead of getting the one i wanted. and well now i do all my profiling on that....
 
Can't tell you yet - I do own the Sharpie with the 204D's, my RC-4 is still flying over the Atlantic at this very moment. May have landed by now. :)

I love sharpening, too; so I may dig into it as well. I've noticed on a few other knives I've reprofiled that the flat sides of the diamond rods remove stock quicker than their corners.
 
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