How old is my Buck? {pics}

Joined
Apr 7, 2002
Messages
721
...he asked. :D

My girlfriend was recently given a found Buck 112. We have no idea how long it's been kicking around. She wanted to know how old it is. Unfortunately, there's no date symbol on the ricasso. But I figured there was still a chance somebody here might be able to help, so here I am. Again, there's no date symbol, so I assume the knife predates that system. How long've Buck's been dated? There's also no fingernail nick in the blade. Finally, though I doubt it's a very useful detail, there's a slight flaw in the handle at blade-end: the left bolster is slightly thicker than the right.

However old it is, it's clearly been abused slightly and neglected for a long time, but it's still in good working order. The backspring's a good bit weaker than the one on my Buck 500, but it still holds her closed just fine and locks up securely. All she really needs is a good cleaning and sharpening.

Markings on the ricasso are:

BUCK
112
U.S.A.

buck01.jpg

buck02.jpg

buck03.jpg

buck04.jpg
 
If I recall correctly the 112 is dated in the same way as the 110. I don't believe that I see any dots by the 112 on the stamp so that would but it from 72 to 74. But I could be wrong.

Tom
 
Hokay, so if:
"1974 to 1980: one dot on either side of the model # (example: .110.)",

Then the knife must've been made before 1974.

And if the model was made with Micarta scales until:
"Sometime in 1973, we switched to Segua wood",

Then _either_ this particular specimen was made in the later part of 1973, or it has an anomalous stamp, right?

I never thought it could be narrowed down so closely. Thanks, guys! :D

edited to add: I've _heard_ (grain of salt, grain of salt) that Buck knives from a certain period were made with a sub-par steel that's hard to sharpen and loses its edge quickly. Is there any truth to that? And if so, did 1973 fall into that period?
 
Your 112 would be 440C. Buck switched to 425M around 81 and to 420HC around 94. Hope that helps.

Tom
 
Buck 110 Steel (would apply to most Buck knives also)

Before 1981.- 440C

1981 to 1994.- 425M

After 1994.- 420HC

Yours would be 440C which did have a reputation for being a pain in the a$$ to sharpen.
 
My 1980 110 was a pain to sharpen before I eventually got a diamond sharpener. No problem at all now. But that blade is tough. I abused the hell out of it and it took it all without a problem. :D
 
CapCase said:
My 1980 110 was a pain to sharpen before I eventually got a diamond sharpener. No problem at all now. But that blade is tough. I abused the hell out of it and it took it all without a problem. :D

I personally have always liked 440C, diamond sharpeners are the way to go, to this day my older brother HATES Buck 110's because his only experiance with them was early 440C being to hard to sharpen for him. I have tried to tell him that a white arkansas soft stone wan't the thing to use. yuk yuk
 
I have never heard of a Buck 110 made with "sub par" steel. The older 440C blades were hard to sharpen because I don't recall the existance of any diamond dust sharpening steels around back then. I distinctly remember having a hard time sharpening them on an oilstone but it could be done and took me forever. I quickly learned to not let it get too dull.

Today's Buck 110's are much easier to keep sharp due to the very thin blade grinds compared to the thicker edge profiles they had back in the 440C days.

I wish I still had my first 110 from the late 60's. I traded it off like an idiot in the mid 80's for a newer 110 and thought I got the better of the deal. Still have that 80's one and it holds a good edge.
 
I have pretty good luck sharpening older Buck knives (440C) with a Norton fine India stone.

Tom
 
I remember "way back" when i would often hear folks say that their old 110 kept an edge forever but it was hard to sharpen. The edge geometry we used back then was why that was so.
We decided to make a more universal edge, which happened to be much easier to resharpen, a few years back.
On that 112, it just may be one of the harder to find Segua wood knives. I could not tell from the picture as there was too much light. The segua wood has heavy grains with open pores while the macasar ebony is a lot smoother.
Hope this helps,
 
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