How quickly did you buy a sharpening system?

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Sep 17, 2010
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I only have like two knives at the moment which is pathetic haha. I guess I kinda want to build my collection before buying a sharpening system ( sharpmaker ). Is this a wrong way to go about things?
 
IMO, a sharpening system and the knowledge how to use it is every bit as important as your knives, if not moreso. A $400 Sebenza isn't very useful if it's dull. Yes, most companies will sharpen your knife for you for the cost of return shipping, but you don't want to have to send it in and wait for it to return everytime you want to shave hairs off your arm. Besides, most of the time "resharpening" should only need a slight touch-up, which takes mere seconds with a Sharpmaker. It's far, far easier to keep a knife sharp by touching it up regularly than it is to regrind an entirely new bevel on it when it gets truly blunt and dull.

Something like an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge is great to have for reprofiling if you don't want to send your knife in for a resharpening. Pricey though, and they take some practice. But a Sharpmaker will handle everything else and is well worth the $50. Of course, you can reprofile with the Sharpmaker too, but it takes longer (unless you spring for the diamond rods) and isn't as consistent as the Edge Pro or Wicked Edge unless you've got extremely steady hands.
 
What Planterz said is right on. When I travel I carry my Sharpmaker and a pair of double-sided Diafolds. I can reprofile most knives freehand with the Diafolds, then get them really sharp on the SM. The whole setup cost me about $100, it is cordless and very portable. I sharpen knives for friends when I visit them, it is always appreciated.
 
I've found that I appreciate my knives more when they are properly sharpened.

I enjoy my $40 Leek just as much as my $400 Sebenza, no joke.

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I started to want a sharpener as soon as I saw a warped edge on my first knife. The first sharpener I got was Lansky that I did not like and tossed to garbage, then it was a Spyderco Tri angle that I later sold after I got Apex Edge Pro which I currently use. I also have several leather straps and a hardened steel road that I never use.
If I had to do it all over again I would just go for the Professional EdgePro. Anyways the system is just as important as your skill and understanding that comes with some practice. I have destroyed finishes on the couple of blades that I tried first to sharpen with lansky. I basically learned sharpening using Lansky on Benchmade Nimravus in M2 steel that I tried to re-profile. It was some painful experience that included bad cuts to my hand due to impatience and slipping.
If you not on a tight budget and serious about your upcoming knife collection, I’d recommend getting the EdgePro, it’s not cheap but it will save you the money in a long run. If you want to stay on a cheap side, get a Spyderco Tri angle.
If you shall decide you want to sell it, you should be able to get 60-80% of what you going to pay for a new one, which is not a total loss.
PS. Wicked Edge advertised on the forum’s top banner appears to be a good one too, I just never used it.
 
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I wouldn't trade my Edge Pro Professional for any knife of similar value. It adds the enjoyment of every blade I own.

To answer the original question. I didn't buy it soon enough. You don't know what you are missing until you get a taste of one.

There is no right or wrong way. Do it the way that makes you happy.
 
I agree the Edge Pro is worth the price if you consider having say, 3 fine knives that are dull or 2 fine, very sharp knives and one Edge Pro. They really can put a fantastic edge on a blade and are not hard to master. Listen to Ben's(the inventor) tutorial (on youtube). He is super easy to get a hold of too and speak directly with. No I don't work for him :) I just like to give credit where it's due.
 
Thanks for the Edge Pro recommendations. I've been looking for an all in one kit and this is it. I'm glad I haven't spent anything on sharpening tools yet. It's a little pricey but it looks like it is well worth it. Too bad they're back-ordered until late January. Worth the wait I'm sure.
 
If it's back-ordered from Edge Pro, check the dealer links on his site; you should be able to find one if you can't wait. Or check the secondary market or ebay (there's 2 on ebay, you just have to sift through a bunch of golf clubs).

You should pick up ceramic hones as well, for touching up your blades when you don't want to regrind a whole new edge. I wasn't very fond of the one I got from Edge pro; I do most of my touch-ups with the Spyderco ceramic rods, but freehand rather than set up in the base. You can pick up them individually, but it's only a few dollars more to get the whole kit. Worth every penny, even if you have an Edge Pro (I have both).
 
without a sharp edge a knife is a paperweight, unless you plan on using them for display only.
 
I started out with the large Lansky kit because it was on sale and a good deal. Lately I have been using the Spyderco Sharp Maker. I like the Spyderco set up as it's quick, easy, far less messy and it's effective. Maybe one day I will move to the Edge Pro but I doubt it. I just need a working edge as I use my knives outdoors. And the Spyderco kit more that meets my needs. I agree with the fellows that touch up their blades before they become a lot more work to bring back. For the price of one inexpensive folder, you can get a decent sharpening kit. Better to have two sharp knives then three dull I say.
 
So a sharpMaker with diamond rods would probably suffice for quite awhile?

It will be fine. It all depends on how far you want to go and on what path.

Personally, I stick with the Sharpmaker for a portable system and paper wheels at home.

Ignore the diamond rods and wrap some medium grit sandpaper around the rods. It actually works faster and is MUCH cheaper. If you stick with the Sharpmaker and want to go further, then the ultra fine rods will further refine your edge.

At this point, you need to go to a polishing step. Stones, regardless of type, will only take you so far.

That's why I like my paper wheels. In 2 steps, I can go from reprofiling to polish. I did add another grit step for an extremely sharp edge but that's just me. I bought an additional wheel and put very fine compound on it for that mirrored hair-whittling edge. All this in less than 5 minutes.
 
So a sharpMaker with diamond rods would probably suffice for quite awhile?

Well, you seem pretty new to the whole concept, so I'll try to explain better about the basics (forgive me if I talk too simply, I don't mean to talk down to you, just trying to help).

There's 2 levels of sharpening a knife. Touching up, and reprofiling. When you get a knife from the factory, it will (should) be sharp enough to slice paper without snagging or tearing it, and shave a bald spot on your arm. When the knife is used it'll dull a bit and you won't be able to shave or slice like you used to. Usually, all that's needed is a quick touch-up. On a Sharpmaker you use the 40º angle holes. Very little metal is removed. Eventually though, after many, many touch-ups, enough metal will have been removed that the edge angle is too obtuse to touch up at 40º. At this point it's time for a reprofiling.

Reprofling involves creating an entirely new bevel grind. On the Sharpmaker you use the 30º setting for reprofiling. Reprofiling with the included medium rods can take quite a while, especially with steels like S30V or D2. This is where the diamond rods come in. Or something like the Edge Pro. Or sending it in the factory for them to resharpen it if you don't want to spend the money on such a system or the time to do it yourself.

The 30º and 40º settings on the Sharpmaker work for most any knife for most any user. The Edge Pro gives you much more flexibility if you want it. Reprofiling on an Edge Pro is easier and quicker than using the Sharpmaker, even with the diamond rods. You can do touch ups on the Edge Pro if you use the finest grit stones, but IMO this removes more material than necessary.

Unless you're overly abusive or obsessive, reprofiling is a rare chore. I've owned both my Benchmade 940D2CF and Spyderco Caly 3 ZDP-189 for a few years, carry one of them every day, use them most days, and touch them up probably a couple times a week. And I've only had to reprofile them each once.

A Sharpmaker will tide you over just fine. Make sure you watch the included DVD. The Edge Pro is a good choice when you have more knives or want to start experimenting with different edge bevels.
 
What is the difference between the Edge Pro Professional and the Edge Pro Apex?

A couple hundred bucks.

The Professional has a different base that uses suction to anchor it to a surface for stability. It also accepts the scissor sharpening attachment. It's mainly intended for people who sharpen lots of knives (perhaps professionally).
 
I bought Sharpmaker shortly after I bought my first decent knife and certainly before I bought my second. I just figured out that if I want to keep my knife sharp, sharpmaker will pay for it self after few sharpening. I never bought diamond rod. At that time they were US made and cost much more, so I bought few Congress stones. They can be much coarser than diamond rods and probably will remove steel faster plus cost less. Not sure how they will work with steel like ZPP189, but work pretty good with S30V and VG10.
 
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