How sharp can I get with a fine stone? Also, I need help sharpening...

[rockz4532]

I'm fairly new to sharpening, so I have a few questions, please bear with me.

Right now I am using a Smith's double-sided sharpener as shown here, http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DCS4-COARSE-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00009YV6L.

I recently spent quite some time(2 hours) sharpening my Spyderco Tenacious, as it wouldn't cleanly cut printer paper, it would snag here and there. I used the newbie's marker trick, and I seem to be doing fine following the factory edge. The angle would change sometimes because I'm new to sharpening, but most of the time I stayed pretty well on the bevel.

I did get the blade sharp enough to push-cut printer paper with ease similar to the factory edge, but it still struggled push cutting newspaper. I'm wondering at what point it isn't reasonable to keep using a fine(750 grit) stone and move on to an extra-fine.

Also for a sharpener like this, I've read that light pressure is the way to go, but I sharpened it using medium pressure at the beginning, and finishing off with almost no pressure at all. Should I be using light strokes the whole time?

Lastly, do you all have any tips on how i could maybe save some time or make my knives sharper on a diamond stone? Since the above Smith's is a pocket sharpener, I find it too small so I am ordering a 6x2 DMT diasharp fine stone, so tips on the DMT are appreciated also.

All help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[foxx]

Freehand sharpening takes lots of practice to be good. Keeping the correct angle everytime is key.
Even if you mastered it already, it should take minutes not hours. If you're starting with 750 grit, that might be the problem. If the knife has never been sharpened, it may need some more coarse grit.
I can only say go to Knives Ship Free, they have some great info on sharpening. From there you can decide what to buy, based on how and what you will be sharpening. Edge geomety will be a big deciding factor. Maybe a Lansky or Spyderco's sharpmaker will be good for someone that wants a sharp knife, without the time spent to learn freehand. Learn as much as you can, Youtube has lots of sharpening videos, some are better than others.
TIP: Listen to knife dealers, and older pros, not everyone on Youtube knows what they are talking about.
Good luck

 

[rockz4532]

I have far from mastering free-hand. I'm trying to get a feel of what I'm working towards. Is there some feeling when you hit the right angle? I'm having trouble keeping a consistant correct angle without checking with the sharpie trick every once and a while.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I'm fairly new to sharpening, so I have a few questions, please bear with me.

Right now I am using a Smith's double-sided sharpener as shown here, http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DCS4-COARSE-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00009YV6L.

I recently spent quite some time(2 hours) sharpening my Spyderco Tenacious, as it wouldn't cleanly cut printer paper, it would snag here and there. I used the newbie's marker trick, and I seem to be doing fine following the factory edge. The angle would change sometimes because I'm new to sharpening, but most of the time I stayed pretty well on the bevel.

I did get the blade sharp enough to push-cut printer paper with ease similar to the factory edge, but it still struggled push cutting newspaper. I'm wondering at what point it isn't reasonable to keep using a fine(750 grit) stone and move on to an extra-fine.

The absolute best thing you can do, is to very closely inspect the edge as you go. Use good magnification (10x or better) and bright light. Inspect from the ricasso all the way to the tip. You need to be able to see that the edge has been completely apexed to a very clean, sharp, uniform 'V' all along it's full length. Should be easy to see with good magnification & light, especially if you're using the black marker on the edge. Any sections that haven't been completely apexed will still show the black at the edge. Don't move on from your coarse hone until you see this. The magnification is very important, because it's relatively easy to miss it without seeing up close. If the edge is completely apexed & clean after the coarse, you should see impressive cutting immediately, even before moving to finer grits. It should only get better after that.

(Your post is timely. I spent this afternoon putting a new edge on one of my knives with a DMT Dia-Fold set, from coarse thru EEF. I made sure to use my 10x illuminated magnifier, and it was a HUGE help.)

Also for a sharpener like this, I've read that light pressure is the way to go, but I sharpened it using medium pressure at the beginning, and finishing off with almost no pressure at all. Should I be using light strokes the whole time?

I think you're probably OK on this, as you are. It's not so bad to use slightly heavier pressure (or medium, as you say) when you start with the coarse hone. Until you've apexed the edge, it's all about removal of metal. Just be sure not to get too heavy, as that can sometimes interfere with controlling your angle. Focus on maintaining control over the angle, and use whatever pressure will allow you to do this. Otherwise, if you're leaning into it too hard, the blade will likely pitch up/down as it tries to dig in. Heavy pressure is also going to shorten the life of your diamond hones. It'll scrub the diamond off (eventually).

Once the edge is apexed with the coarse, then it's all about gradually refining the scratch pattern (removing the deep scratches from the coarse). This should be done gently & carefully. Use the magnification to closely watch your progress. As you move higher in grit, it's best to use very light pressure. I also prefer to get much lighter as I progress through the grits.

Lastly, do you all have any tips on how i could maybe save some time or make my knives sharper on a diamond stone? Since the above Smith's is a pocket sharpener, I find it too small so I am ordering a 6x2 DMT diasharp fine stone, so tips on the DMT are appreciated also.

All help is appreciated. Thanks!

You would, as has been mentioned, do well to get a Coarse hone. That'll speed things up. Barring that, the Dia-Sharp 6 x 2 should, in it's own right, save you quite a lot of time, compared to the smaller hone you've been using. The extra surface area, with all that extra diamond, will make a big difference. Removes metal very quick. All the more reason to go about it GENTLY. Just focus on:

1. Inspect the edge closely & frequently as you go.
2. Maintain control of your angle.
3. Keep pressure as light as you can, especially in the finishing stages.
4. BE PATIENT. Don't rush, the results will pay off.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I have far from mastering free-hand. I'm trying to get a feel of what I'm working towards. Is there some feeling when you hit the right angle? I'm having trouble keeping a consistant correct angle without checking with the sharpie trick every once and a while.

Don't be shy about using the Sharpie every, single time you sharpen. It helps a lot. And, as I pointed out in my other post, magnification is a great big help. If your angle is changing constantly, the edge will show it (multiple bevels near the edge, or rounding of the edge or shoulders).

As for 'feeling' when the angle is right, I've noticed a certain 'bite' of the edge into the stone, when the edge is just reaching that 'apex' point. It's important to use the magnification prior to this, so you'll be able to see when you're getting close. Then, lighten your pressure and pay attention to what your fingers are feeling from the edge. It's subtle, but if you know you're close to being there (by inspecting), you should be able to feel it when it's getting sharp.

 

[rockz4532]

Thank you Obsessed With Edges for all of that information.

I've been trying out your advice, I do have a 4x magnifier, but I don't really know what I'm supposed to be looking for. In doing so, I tried to touch-up my Kershaw Blur as the edge seemed dull and reflected light at the very edge on one side of the blade. I think I made it worse, its definitely not sharper and the bevel looks really messy.
How am I doing with this, I did ten strokes after marking the edge and snapped a photo.

Also, as you can see in the picture, I can't even touch that slight recurve. Now I'm wondering how I'll ever sharpen this knife, even if I get those DMT stones...

I will keep trying at the Blur, but I've already scratched the DLC coating at the tip, and so far nothing has been going uphill.

I really suck at sharpening...

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thank you Obsessed With Edges for all of that information.

I've been trying out your advice, I do have a 4x magnifier, but I don't really know what I'm supposed to be looking for. In doing so, I tried to touch-up my Kershaw Blur as the edge seemed dull and reflected light at the very edge on one side of the blade. I think I made it worse, its definitely not sharper and the bevel looks really messy.

This is why I really believe some better magnification (10x or more) would help a LOT. I used a 5x for a while, and it helped some. But I still didn't know what was getting overlooked, until I found one of my old 10x magnifiers (lighted) and started using it. The imperfections in the edge became a lot more obvious. It was easy to see where I hadn't reached the edge (apexed), and other issues, like multiple bevels and rounding, etc., all reared their ugly heads.

How am I doing with this, I did ten strokes after marking the edge and snapped a photo.

Also, as you can see in the picture, I can't even touch that slight recurve. Now I'm wondering how I'll ever sharpen this knife, even if I get those DMT stones...

As for the recurve, DMT does have one or two rounded hones for just such things. Or, a diamond rod could be used. You could even use some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a section of PVC pipe (or, as another member has cleverly suggested recently, a Pringle's can). The sandpaper works surprisingly well (ordinarily used with an edge-trailing stroke, as in stropping).

I will keep trying at the Blur, but I've already scratched the DLC coating at the tip, and so far nothing has been going uphill.

I really suck at sharpening...

This is where my earlier point needs more emphasis. PATIENCE is key. Sounds like you're a bit frustrated and/or tired right now. Don't give up. Take a break & give yourself a chance to relax & think about it a bit, before picking up the sharpening tools again. That's how I do it. I tend to 'obsess' about these things for some time. Then, at some point, it seems to become much clearer what I need to do, and I'll just pull the trigger and go for it. It helps greatly to let things come into focus first, in your mind, before even trying to start.

I'll emphasize again, get yourself a good magnifier. Then, take some time to just look at the edge on your knife, from one end to the other. Look as closely as you possibly can, under bright light. Don't even need to do anything else for a while, if need be. Just look at the edge & think about what it will take to fix what you see. Make darn sure that you can see, without a doubt, if the edge is completely apexed (nice, clean, sharp 'V'; no extra bevels, no rounding, etc.).

Hang in there. :thumbup:

 

[rockz4532]

Ok, I took a quick break, and started at it again. I drew the line of sharpie on the bevel too many times to count, but I seem to be getting a feel for the right angle. As for using the magnifier, I can't really see extra bevels or rounding because my angle is not locked in and varies between strokes, and I naturally convex the edge. I will try to dig up an old microscope and use it at 25x power and see if I can notice anything.

Anyways, after almost an hour of combined sharpening, The edge is sharper, but not sharp, It will snag on printer paper half way into the slice. I think I'm done with this 4 inch sharpening stone, I will order the DMT and have a try with that when it arrives. The smith is just too small and I can't lay it flat, meaning I must use one hand to guide the blade, and one hand to hold the sharpener.

I have also noticed that when running the edge through my finger, very lightly of course, it feels rough. Compared to my Kershaw Zing, that still has a sharp factory edge on it, the Zing feels smooth. Also on my fingernail both my recently sharpened Tenacious and this Blur feel rough compared to the factory sharpened Zing. Now, is this because I didn't go to extra-fine and strop? I think this might be what is referred to as a "toothed edge" on the forums although the tooths are very small.

Also, while browsing YouTube, I found this video series by nozh2002, and he does get his knives hair-splitting sharp. Is he using a good technique that I can maybe try to replicate?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TscN9h-1xQ&feature=related

Sorry for so many questions, I hope it isn't an inconvenience.

 

[eccvets]

do yourself a favor and ditch your hand held stone and get a paper wheel system. You could have hair wittling edges in just minuets (and that is including set up time if you dont have a perment spot to sharpen like I do and have to bust it out of your closet and then have to clean up a bit afterwards to just get the place nice and tidey again if you have OCD like I do).


yes you can get extrememly sharp edges with stones but it takes time, skill, effort, and a crap load of money for all the supplies you need and in the end, you may or may not have an edge your willing to actually use everyday cuz it cost you so much in time and energy. I put back a razor edge which will shave on my 22 inch machette in minuets after I actually used it and hit a few rocks and dented the edge with. Try doing that with stones, you'll be lucky to even get near a sharp edge which will cut paper much less wittle hair with! did i mention a paper wheel system cost 25-35 bucks? a lanskey system cost 50 bucks alone which was my last system I tried and failed with. I mean I could get an edge which I though which was sharp until I tried the paper wheel system and now I can see its total crap! its laughable at what I though was sharp before I moved up and tried something everyone else was raving about.

look it up on youtube for video proof at how sharp and how fast a paper wheel system can get an edge!

 

[jimnolimit]

here's a little advise (as i can't physically show you how to freehand sharpen).

diamond is an aggressive cutting medium. when using it you have to use light pressure (especially toward the end of your sharpening). this is also true for any type of stone you use. if the knifes edge is in good shape don't over work it.

count the amount of strokes you do on each side. if the knife is dull but the edge is not chipped or dented, follow the angle of the edge and do 8-10 strokes on each side, then 6, then 4, then 2 than 1. as you get closer to 2 and 1 per side make sure you are using very light pressure. check the edge for sharpness (against paper), if it still needs more do 3 strokes per side , then 2, then 1. check the edge again. repeat until you get the edge right. to maintain the knife you should only need to do 3 strokes per side, then 2, then 1 (maybe as little as 2, then 1).

even though 750 grit is called fine, in the grand scheme of things it's not that fine. if you look at pics of knives with edges that look like mirrors or splitting hairs, they are going much much finer than 750 grit.

have you thought about using an actual stone instead of a small pocket sharpener?

 

[KennyB]

Ok, I took a quick break, and started at it again. I drew the line of sharpie on the bevel too many times to count, but I seem to be getting a feel for the right angle. As for using the magnifier, I can't really see extra bevels or rounding because my angle is not locked in and varies between strokes, and I naturally convex the edge. I will try to dig up an old microscope and use it at 25x power and see if I can notice anything.

Anyways, after almost an hour of combined sharpening, The edge is sharper, but not sharp, It will snag on printer paper half way into the slice. I think I'm done with this 4 inch sharpening stone, I will order the DMT and have a try with that when it arrives. The smith is just too small and I can't lay it flat, meaning I must use one hand to guide the blade, and one hand to hold the sharpener.

I have also noticed that when running the edge through my finger, very lightly of course, it feels rough. Compared to my Kershaw Zing, that still has a sharp factory edge on it, the Zing feels smooth. Also on my fingernail both my recently sharpened Tenacious and this Blur feel rough compared to the factory sharpened Zing. Now, is this because I didn't go to extra-fine and strop? I think this might be what is referred to as a "toothed edge" on the forums although the tooths are very small.

Also, while browsing YouTube, I found this video series by nozh2002, and he does get his knives hair-splitting sharp. Is he using a good technique that I can maybe try to replicate?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TscN9h-1xQ&feature=related

Sorry for so many questions, I hope it isn't an inconvenience.

One thing that's nice about hand-held sharpeners is that you can move the hone as well as the sharpening hand. This might sound crazy or like a "trick", but you might actually find that it's a lot easier to kind of "pull" the hone with one hand while guiding it with the other, letting one hand take over some of the work. I've used that Smith's sharpener frequently and I find that really helps to control it.

Are you sure you don't have a burr on the edges? The 750 grit does leave a pretty toothy edge, but it shouldn't snag, and it shouldn't really even feel that "toothy" on the fingernail. On my fingernail it kind of has a "gummy" feel to it as it sinks in versus how my more polished edges kind of feel like they're skating over it.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Ok, I took a quick break, and started at it again. I drew the line of sharpie on the bevel too many times to count, but I seem to be getting a feel for the right angle. As for using the magnifier, I can't really see extra bevels or rounding because my angle is not locked in and varies between strokes, and I naturally convex the edge. I will try to dig up an old microscope and use it at 25x power and see if I can notice anything.

OK. Good. It's good to see you're beginning to get a feel for the angle. That's one of the things that gets better with repetition, so keep at it. Also, some convexing of the bevel isn't necessarily a bad thing. In fact, many experts like it that way! So long as the edge itself is truly sharp, don't worry too much about some slight convexing.

Anyways, after almost an hour of combined sharpening, The edge is sharper, but not sharp, It will snag on printer paper half way into the slice. I think I'm done with this 4 inch sharpening stone, I will order the DMT and have a try with that when it arrives. The smith is just too small and I can't lay it flat, meaning I must use one hand to guide the blade, and one hand to hold the sharpener.

Sounds like some progress. The snagging of the edge in the paper might be a burr, or a ding/dent. If it's always snagging at the same point on the edge, I usually suspect a burr, as they really do tend to 'grab' at whatever's being cut. Other imperfections, like dents or rounded edges, will usually just 'bump' through the cut and/or slip across the paper without cutting. Don't worry too much about it right now. The bigger issue is the small hone is impeding your progress. I think it's a good thing that you'll wait for the larger stone to arrive. Once you have something better (hopefully) to work with, some of these other issues will resolve themselves. The burrs are things that generally get cleaned up as you progress into and through the finer grit stages. That's why I wouldn't worry too much about it now. You can deal with that later.

I have also noticed that when running the edge through my finger, very lightly of course, it feels rough. Compared to my Kershaw Zing, that still has a sharp factory edge on it, the Zing feels smooth. Also on my fingernail both my recently sharpened Tenacious and this Blur feel rough compared to the factory sharpened Zing. Now, is this because I didn't go to extra-fine and strop? I think this might be what is referred to as a "toothed edge" on the forums although the tooths are very small.

What steel is your Blur made with? I know that S30V has a reputation for some 'toothiness' at the edge, even after some fine polishing. It's a bit odd, in that you can initially put a fine (hair shaving) edge on it, but that fineness breaks down quickly, leaving a toothy edge that, in itself, is very durable for harder use.

Also, while browsing YouTube, I found this video series by nozh2002, and he does get his knives hair-splitting sharp. Is he using a good technique that I can maybe try to replicate?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TscN9h-1xQ&feature=related

Sorry for so many questions, I hope it isn't an inconvenience.

I think this particular individual (nozh2002) has an excellent reputation. I used to see him posting quite a lot here (he's a BF member), and if I remember correctly, he's pretty widely respected for his abilities. So, in a nutshell, I'd say he is 'using a good technique', as you say. Keep in mind, he's also very highly skilled, with years & years of experience.

 

[rockz4532]

I have a Blur with either 13C26 or 14C28N blade steel. I do have some 400 and 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, so I'll try that. I also have a flat piece of glass to use, so I'll try sharpening the non-recurved portion of the blade on the sandpaper, and if it shows good results, I'll try the pipe/pringles can trick for the re-curves. I will let you know how it goes.

As for the paper wheels suggestion, I would love to sharpen knives in minutes, but I do really want to learn how to free-hand sharpen.
Thanks

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I have a Blur with either 13C26 or 14C28N blade steel. I do have some 400 and 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, so I'll try that. I also have a flat piece of glass to use, so I'll try sharpening the non-recurved portion of the blade on the sandpaper, and if it shows good results, I'll try the pipe/pringles can trick for the re-curves. I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks

:thumbup:

Sounds like a good plan. It's good to adapt & improvise, so far as I'm concerned. Keeps the mind focused, and I think you'll discover some new things along the way. That's always good.

With the sandpaper, LIGHT pressure is more important. Both for the sake of not cutting/tearing/wrinkling the paper, but for the quality of the finish. It'll reward you for it, as long as you're careful.

Good luck.

 

[rockz4532]

Finished with the sandpaper. The edge looks nice, but I can't tell that its sharper. Sometimes it would cut paper cleanly, sometimes it would snag in the middle, and sometimes it wouldn't even start cutting. I did use very little pressure as I was finishing, but the knife is still just as dull. The tip seems to be sharp, but the middle seems to be less sharp. Is there a way I can test how uniform the sharpness is? I'm thinking maybe stones aren't my thing, with a 12 inch piece of sandpaper, it seems the knife still won't sharpen, even though I used the sharpie trick on almost every stroke.
Is there another cutting test that I could try besides paper?

I've also noticed that the edge feels like it is a very obtuse angle, something like 45 degrees, because in order to scrape away the sharpie on the bevel, I must use a very wide angle to do so. I'm not really sure what to do now, chances are the DMT stone won't be much use if the sandpaper didn't work.

Thanks

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Finished with the sandpaper. The edge looks nice, but I can't tell that its sharper. Sometimes it would cut paper cleanly, sometimes it would snag in the middle, and sometimes it wouldn't even start cutting. I did use very little pressure as I was finishing, but the knife is still just as dull. The tip seems to be sharp, but the middle seems to be less sharp. Is there a way I can test how uniform the sharpness is? I'm thinking maybe stones aren't my thing, with a 12 inch piece of sandpaper, it seems the knife still won't sharpen, even though I used the sharpie trick on almost every stroke.
Is there another cutting test that I could try besides paper?

I've also noticed that the edge feels like it is a very obtuse angle, something like 45 degrees, because in order to scrape away the sharpie on the bevel, I must use a very wide angle to do so. I'm not really sure what to do now, chances are the DMT stone won't be much use if the sandpaper didn't work.

Thanks

I think this is the time to stop with the sharpening tools, and do what you need to do in finding/acquiring some better magnification. The issues you're describing (looks nice, but can't tell if it's sharper, snagging on the paper, obtuse edge, etc.) are things that should be easy to see, once you get a good, close look at the edge. These are all things I've encountered in my 'learning curve' of sharpening, and they all became very obvious when I found a decent magnifier to actually look at them. Until you have developed the 'feel' for these things, it's critically important to closely watch the results of your efforts, under magnification, as you go. Make the edge look as 'perfect' as you can, when viewed under good magnification, and the cutting performance will follow.

In the meantime, another thing you might do, is to find a cheap knife (like a kitchen knife or other 'beater'), one that you know can hold or has held a decent edge on it (some REALLY CHEAP knives have steel that'll never take or hold a decent edge; can't learn anything with those), and practice your technique with it. If you're seeing a very thick edge (obtuse) on what you've done so far, make a point to keep your angle lower, and pressure light.

Edited to add:
(The obtuse edge issue probably is contributing the most to your troubles so far. A thick edge can be a good cutter, but it's got to be either very toothy, or geometrically perfect (or nearly so), with a pure edge. If it's just a tiny bit rounded, dinged, or less than perfect in any way, it won't make for good slicing (through paper or whatever). Knives with very thin blades (such as a typical kitchen paring knife) can get away with having obtuse edges, but that's more a function of the blade's thinness, and the job for which it's designed (cutting relatively 'soft' veggies/fruits/etc.). But a wide, imperfect edge on a thick blade is bad news for fine slicing.)

I think it's mostly an issue of practicing at this point, and that might be more productive if you start with something that's not as daunting as a thick, modern blade with a recurve and an obtuse edge. Practice with the tools you have now (diamond hone, sandpaper, etc.), and pay close attention to changes in the cutting performance as you go. If you see the performance trailing off or changing negatively, then STOP what you're doing immediately and think about how to turn it around. Then, go about it slowly and carefully.

Don't give up. Be tenacious about sticking with it. Take your time, and always think about how what you're doing right now is affecting the results.

 

[rockz4532]

I've decided to give it another try with careful examination of the blade, so I used 400 grit to set a good angle that was less obtuse, and after that I used 1000 grit to smooth out the bevel, using light pressure and slow controlled strokes for everything. One thing I changed is that I used a stropping motion as well as a forward motion on the sandpaper. I felt I could keep the strokes consistent this way. Since I used almost no pressure, it wouldn't tear the paper either. It could easily slice paper and shave arm hair! I found some 3M rubbing compound, its usually used to buff cars, it has very fine silica particles in it; after some stropping with that, it could take off arm hair in one pass. Next time I stop by Lowes, I'll see if they have some green stropping compound, I've read some have gotten it there.

Edit: Also, when rubbing the edge on my fingernail or finger, it feels much more smooth, much like how Kershaw's factory edges come. That rubbing compound really did help, despite it being much more fine than green compound.

I am so glad I got this knife properly sharpened, its taken a lot of time but I feel I have learned a lot. I didn't sharpen the re-curve, but I'll wait until the new edge gets dulled before I take on that challenge.

One last question. Would it be bad to use the forward and backward motion on a diamond stone?

Thanks for all the help Obsessed with Edges!

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I've decided to give it another try with careful examination of the blade, so I used 400 grit to set a good angle that was less obtuse, and after that I used 1000 grit to smooth out the bevel, using light pressure and slow controlled strokes for everything. One thing I changed is that I used a stropping motion as well as a forward motion on the sandpaper. I felt I could keep the strokes consistent this way. Since I used almost no pressure, it wouldn't tear the paper either. It could easily slice paper and shave arm hair! I found some 3M rubbing compound, its usually used to buff cars, it has very fine silica particles in it; after some stropping with that, it could take off arm hair in one pass. Next time I stop by Lowes, I'll see if they have some green stropping compound, I've read some have gotten it there.

Edit: Also, when rubbing the edge on my fingernail or finger, it feels much more smooth, much like how Kershaw's factory edges come. That rubbing compound really did help, despite it being much more fine than green compound.

I am so glad I got this knife properly sharpened, its taken a lot of time but I feel I have learned a lot. I didn't sharpen the re-curve, but I'll wait until the new edge gets dulled before I take on that challenge.

One last question. Would it be bad to use the forward and backward motion on a diamond stone?

Thanks for all the help Obsessed with Edges!

Outstanding! :thumbup:

You stuck with it and it paid off, sounds like.

I think, if you've found a method that works for you, I can't criticize you for at least trying out the back/forth motion on the diamond stone. Won't hurt the hone, so long as you keep the pressure light. The diamond does remove metal very fast, so just keep that in mind too. I know some purists might say you should only do edge-leading, but I also know there's more than one way to skin a cat. Many, many people have been sharpening blades for centuries (at least), and have found their own, unique ways to get the same result.

Nice work.