How sharp can you get a knife with an Arkansas stone?

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ahenry

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
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I have been sharpening a few knives with an Arkansas stone (both hard and soft stones) and I just can’t seem to get the edge that I can with other stones. Does anybody else have that same difficulty, or am I doing it all wrong?
 
I use Arkansas stones all the time. I buggered up a bunch of blades when I first started sharpening freehand, but once you've got the knack, my knives are as sharp as anyones'. The trick is maintaining a consistant angle. I always strop a time or two after as well on a sheet of cardboard.
 
Use of an edge guide like such as that available from RazorEdge Systems or Buck (if you can still find one) to maintain a consistent angle helps a lot on any stone, not just Askansas. With some practice you should be able to get an edge as good as the steel will take on an Arkansas stone.
 
Arkansas stones don't cut very fast so the most common problem is just not removing enough material. Another problem can be leaving a burr if you don't super-elevate your final honing strokes (you do want to hone edge first for the same reason). The third issue can be the ultra-smoothness of the Arkansas hones leaves an edge with very little "toothiness". If you have a thin edge like a razor or scalpel you don't need any roughness to the edge to achieve optimal slicing ability. If you have a more obtuse edge (typically on a thicker saber grind blade) you need some of that tooth for good slicing. I find the edge that I get on my medium-fine ceramic rods to be much more effective than if I use an Arkansas stone.
 
How many of you that uses Arkansas stones doesn't use honing oil in conjunction? What's the result?
 
I have always found that the stones cut more consistant when using the honing oil or even water. NEVER use regular type oil on them as it will clog them up severly. Done it once.
 
This method may go against most beliefs, but it gives me a
_-=:eek:=-_ wow sharp edge, pops the hairs from my arm:

First, use a hard arkansas...the grey one, to do the initial sharpening (with or without oil, I have no preference). If you don't have a surgical black one, get one.

next, use the surgical black stone WITH OIL, I have yet to get the razor edge without oil. Sharpen the blade like you are trying to scrape the stone of ice. Do this stroke about 10-20 times. IT IS PERTINENT THAT YOU MAINTAIN THE ANGLE OF THE EDGE.

Now, here is the part most would say you shouldn't do. Use the surgical black stone as a stroper, like spreading butter. Do this
3-5 times on each side intermittently. After you have finished this, THEN strope with a peice of cardboard. the best stroping cardboard I have used is the waxed kind. it is used for vegetables and you can get it from your local grocery store.

This is the method I use on all of my knives, and they all have razor edges. Even my Strider survival knife, with its ultra thick blade.

Regards,

Steve C.
 
clawhands :

Now, here is the part most would say you shouldn't do. Use the surgical black stone as a stroper, like spreading butter. Do this
3-5 times on each side intermittently. After you have finished this, THEN strope with a peice of cardboard. the best stroping cardboard I have used is the waxed kind. it is used for vegetables and you can get it from your local grocery store.
Click to expand...

The reason that I would not recommend that is because I have found such methods tend to promote burr formation. This is a common problem with all edge trailing sharpening. I have no doubt that high sharpness could be achieved, however edge retention would be the critical area. However, if it produces good results for you, that is all that matters.

-Cliff
 
I never could get good results with Ark stones either. I switched on a whim to Norton Water Stones in 220/600/1000/4000/8000 grit. Using the 8000 grit stone on my knives is the best thing I've ever done for them. The edge seems to last alot longer when I do. this setup cost me a pretty penny, In th neiborhood of 2oo dollars but it was well worth it. All my knives are chisel ground, my kitchen knives and my EDC knife. they all scare the hair off my arm without touching the skin ;) (overstatement but you get the idea). My CQC7b gets sharp enough that if you lightly run a fingertip over the edhe you will draw blood, but the edge is so smooth you don't even feel it break skin. When I get my GB I hope I can get the same results
 
I like to use diamond stones first if the blade is fairly dull, then follow with Akansas stones. The diamond ones cut faster and get the edge back, then, if I want a polished edge, I can use Arkansas stones to finish the edge off.
Whoa, I just used the edge of a new, un-opened ream of printer paper for a strop, and it seems to work pretty well. Cool!
 
I think it might depend on the steel.
I can't seem to get my ATS-34 knives as sharp as I can others.

However, 440C, ATS-55, AUS6, AUS8, 420HC, and whatever steel Case, Schrade, Victorinox, and Wenger use--no problem!
I have'nt used the stone on my VG-10 Endura yet.

Good luck,
Allen.
 
I find that the older high cabon steel blades sharpen beautifully on the few Arkansas stones that I have. Though they sharpen nicely on virtually anything anyway. However, my more modern stainless blades don't do quite as well. I usually use diamond and ceramics.
 
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