how sharp of an edge for wilderness blade?

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nc527

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Mar 22, 2009
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I was wondering what type of edge is best for wilderness tasks, such as wood carving and such. Like a really sharp polished edge, or a more toothy edge? also, what grit when sharpening with sandpaper should i go to?
 
For my machetes and axes, I keep them sharp but not shaving sharp using a Lansky Puck. Wonderful little device. Never saw a need for a two-foot razor. My smaller blades keep a well polished edge. As to your sandpaper question, I start at 200 grit and work my way up in 200 grit increments all the way to 2000. 200, 400, 600, etc. I then finish it off with a strop loaded with compound. I think I've got black compound right now. Haven't really noticed a difference between the various colors of compound. The initial process with sandpaper is slow, but once you get it that way, the strop is usually sufficent to maintain the edge.
 
I don't know if this is the best, but I sharpen mine on sandpaper up to 2000 grit, the finest grit I can get at Autozone, and strop them on a plain old belt. It seems like my carbon knives will carve through wood all day with the edge I get.
 
Sharp. As sharp as you can get it. I used to kind of agree with the "toothy edge" but not anymore. A sharp knife is safer and much more efficient. I also carry a small hone to keep it keen if I'm doing a lot of wood work.
 
I do the same as CRR, but I do sharpen axes and hatchets with sandpaper as well. Machetes get a bastard file. On the strop, I use FLITZ instead of compound. Works just as well for me.
 
honed edges unless cutting rope. Usually always honed.
I like scandi on my mora 2000 for feathers and working with what materials the woods provide.

Full flat grind on my chopper/splitter works good enough without getting into more expensive knives.
 
it's like asking how longs a piece of string? as long as you want it, as sharp as you want it!!!!!
 
As sharp as I can get it. Granted the edge angle and type is dictated by what I plan to use it for, but the end result is as sharp as I can get that edge, always.
 
as sharp as I can reasonably apply one with the tools at hand... I'm getting pretty sick of working with grinds more than 15 degrees, too...
 
Dull is dangerous. Just say that to yourself.

Dull edges are more likely to slip. Less likely to pull smoothly. They are not an asset to you kit. So, whether you put a 2000 grit polish on the edge or a 600 one... make sure it is done correctly and is shaving sharp.
 
Polished to push cut newspaper is sharp for me.
I think at least this kind of sharpness is required for wood work.
 
I keep mine hair popping sharp(about as sharp as CRK factory edge). I wouldn't know what grit, I use the fine sharpmaker rods to sharpen with.

+1 on the sharp knife being more effiecent.
 
I use an 800 grit ceramic stone for most of my cutlery, and maybe a bit more polish for the light duty slicers. I'd say that angle and geometry are more important, but I sharpen free-hand and all my knives are a bit different. doesn't bother me much anymore. matter of fact, the Vic soldier in my pocket now will pop hairs out near the tip, but won't cut much near the heel of the blade. still in the process of fixing the damage from the previous owner.
 
This is actually a pretty deep and profound issue worthy of much study among knifees such as us :cool:

Keep in mind that cutting is an act of force not an act of sharpness.
Consider these points to ponder:
* A 1/4" thick blade with a 60 degree inclusive edge that is shaving sharp simply won't be a good slicer. A fairly dull super thin blade will slice with ease.
* A shaving sharp polished edge will pop hairs on your arm but it lacks the micro serrations to easily grip and slice fiberous materials like vegetation, meat, paper and cardboard.

First and foremost, you must consider blade thickness, edge geometry and bevel thickness. As these will greatly affect performance. Next, your knife should always be "sharp" meaning two bevels that come to together to form an edge (think the top of an isosceles triangle with no metal rolled over). The next question becomes how rough or smooth that edge should be.
* To shave your arm, push cut open plastic packages or push cut string to make it pop you should polish the edge as much as possible (less resistence when pushing through the material).
* To carve a turkey or cut steak (slicing), polish less and leave some micro serrations to grab the meat as it's being sliced.
* To slice thick fiber like rope or cardboard, leave the edge even rougher. Meaning it should be sharp but not polished.

I sharpen with an Edge Pro. When I first got it, I used the nifty polish tapes on every edge to make them shine. I soon realized that there was more to sharpening. These days, I sharpen down to the 600 grit stone to leave a little "bite" to edge. I can still shave arm hair and shave wood but it makes slicing an easier task.
 
Classified00_2010 said:
This is actually a pretty deep and profound issue worthy of much study among knifees such as us :cool:

Keep in mind that cutting is an act of force not an act of sharpness.
Consider these points to ponder:
* A 1/4" thick blade with a 60 degree inclusive edge that is shaving sharp simply won't be a good slicer. A fairly dull super thin blade will slice with ease.
* A shaving sharp polished edge will pop hairs on your arm but it lacks the micro serrations to easily grip and slice fiberous materials like vegetation, meat, paper and cardboard.

First and foremost, you must consider blade thickness, edge geometry and bevel thickness. As these will greatly affect performance. Next, your knife should always be "sharp" meaning two bevels that come to together to form an edge (think the top of an isosceles triangle with no metal rolled over). The next question becomes how rough or smooth that edge should be.
* To shave your arm, push cut open plastic packages or push cut string to make it pop you should polish the edge as much as possible (less resistence when pushing through the material).
* To carve a turkey or cut steak (slicing), polish less and leave some micro serrations to grab the meat as it's being sliced.
* To slice thick fiber like rope or cardboard, leave the edge even rougher. Meaning it should be sharp but not polished.

I sharpen with an Edge Pro. When I first got it, I used the nifty polish tapes on every edge to make them shine. I soon realized that there was more to sharpening. These days, I sharpen down to the 600 grit stone to leave a little "bite" to edge. I can still shave arm hair and shave wood but it makes slicing an easier task.
Click to expand...

Good post!:thumbup: Edge geometry does have a huge impact regarding this. I think any blade you take outdoors should be as sharp as you can get it. Doing field sharpening, you most likely won't get it to the same initial level, but it will still be an effective working edge. Steel composition and hardness is also a factor. You can spend as much time on your bushcraft knife as a compact machete, but your machete will dull much quicker...hence a quick touch up on a file or coarse sharpener is faster to keep it functional for appropriate tasks.

A polished edge is always easier to maintain in the field IMHO; even if I can't get it back to the same level, it's easier to get it to a level where it's still sharp enough to function and be safe for carving or cutting tasks.

ROCK6
 
OP is too vague. Are you talking about a certain model knife? A machete or a Mora?

I'd say anywhere from 15 to 25 degrees per side.
 
GrinderMcgee said:
OP is too vague. Are you talking about a certain model knife? A machete or a Mora?

I'd say anywhere from 15 to 25 degrees per side.
Click to expand...

ESEE-4, and Swamp rat HRLM

I now have an edge on the HRLM that will cut string or wood with ease, but likes to slide over paper. It will pop hairs on my arm. I think it may just be sliding over the paper, but when it doesnt slide, it slices cleanly.
 
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