How sharp should I keep my blade?

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xtremepado

Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
27
Last week, during my commute back from school, I decided I needed a knife. I drove straight to Bass Pro Shops and bought a CS Voyager medium to use as an EDC blade. I think I've caught the fever; by Friday I had already ordered a Spyderco Delica 4. I received it and absolutely love it, but I'm not sure how sharp I should keep the blade. I really like having a but I feel like I'm "wearing it out" too fast by sharpening it frequently (I bought a Lansky crock stick sharpener). Am I loosing a significant amount of blade each time I sharpen? How sharp do you keep your EDC knives?

BTW I really like this site :thumbup: everyone here is so nice and helpful
 
You would have to sharpen on those crock sticks for a millennium to actually wear the metal out :P Keep your knives as sharp as you possibly can. Unless you're constantly using your knife every day, you shouldn't need to touch it up all the time. One touch up every week or two with a strop keeps it sharp all the time.
 
Do a search on the SharpMaker, it's a good tool to keep your knives sharp and doesn't break the bank at around $50.
 
The SharpMaker has a few advantages. One, the triangle shaped rods can be used to sharpen serrated edges as well as plain edges (using only the corners). Two, the corners of the rods will concentrate pressure on a smaller area for faster steel removal when needed, but the flats spread the force over a larger area for a more polished finish. Three, the SM has two sets of holes, thirty degree included and forty degree included. You can use the thirty degree angle on better steels such as the VG-10 in your Delica, or you can use it to set a relief bevel (also called a back bevel) to reduce the thickness of the edge and use the forty degree setting to put on a microbevel (also called a secondary bevel). This gives you a slightly less sharp, but more durable edge. It also allows you to touch up the edge quickly, since very little steel is removed when you are only sharpening the very edge instead of the entire backbevel.

Convex edges have their fans. I've been sharpening freehand for many years, so most of my edges are at least slightly convexed.
 
A few things I want to input based on my personal experience:

The Spyderco Sharpmaker is not efficient enough in stock form to do a sharpening job. The sticks it comes with(Coarse and fine) are insufficient to carve at all into the steel, the two pairs of Rods also collect metal easily due to their shallow pores.

Now, I'm sure some agree with me and some will not. I base my judgment above sharpening VG-10, S30V, CTS-XHP, 1095 and 154CM Steels.

While the Spyderco Sharpmaker has it's advantages, I can only count a handful of them and more disadvantages to outnumber them.

1. The Sharpmaker can sharpen Serrated edges, but it's still inefficient due to slow metal removing

2. It can sharpen fishing hooks with the grooves

3. It's easy to learn and get a hold of

4. It's made by a company who gives a darn

5. Can sharpen a multitude of tools, scissors, pliers, nail clippers. All but very slowly

6. I have yet to discover #6;)

Disadvantages:

1. Slow Stock Removal :thumbdn:

2. Two Preset angles

3. Vertical sharpening method, it'll be hard to uniformly sharpen the entire length, the tip will slip off

4. Needs to be scrubbed very often(1-2 knives and it'll build up)

5. The Coarse Rods will need to be replaced when they lose ability to progress


These four disadvantages are more to discourage me to use the Sharpmaker as a unit.

My advice? Something more robust, has more head room, will not need as much maintenance and is cheaper but at the same time more effective.
Since Natural stones wear out and hollow out after use, they will not be my first or second choice.
Diamonds? Diamond stones out there are actually very cost effective. I myself use Diamond stones because they do not hollow out, do not need maintenance, remove metal very quickly and painlessly.

Prove it! Alright, here you go :thumbup:


All done with DMT Diamond Stones from
Coarse->Fine->Extra-Fine-> Backside of Leather with ZAM Compound

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I'm using a DMT aligner right now for my edges. I'm in the process of obtaining an edge pro, though.
 
xtestifyx said:
Disadvantages:

1. Slow Stock Removal :thumbdn:

2. Two Preset angles

3. Vertical sharpening method, it'll be hard to uniformly sharpen the entire length, the tip will slip off

4. Needs to be scrubbed very often(1-2 knives and it'll build up)

5. The Coarse Rods will need to be replaced when they lose ability to progress
Click to expand...

1. Yes, because it isn't a "Reprofile-maker". You shouldn't reprofiling, just touching up.

2. Something is wrong with preset angles? :confused: Not to mention you can slot the rods in the base and use it flat at any angle you want. Or take the rods out and sharpen something you can't bring to the sharpmaker.

3. You need more practice, I have no issues with that.

4. I can touch up my knives for months without needing to scrub the stones..

5. Have you actually had to replace the brown rods? I'm betting you won't have to for 5-10 years.

I like the Sharpmaker, it's quick to setup, easy to use, and provides consistent angles. :thumbup:
 
Josh K said:
1. Yes, because it isn't a "Reprofile-maker". You shouldn't reprofiling, just touching up.

2. Something is wrong with preset angles? :confused: Not to mention you can slot the rods in the base and use it flat at any angle you want. Or take the rods out and sharpen something you can't bring to the sharpmaker.

3. You need more practice, I have no issues with that.

4. I can touch up my knives for months without needing to scrub the stones..

5. Have you actually had to replace the brown rods? I'm betting you won't have to for 5-10 years.

I like the Sharpmaker, it's quick to setup, easy to use, and provides consistent angles. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

You're somewhat right. The issue is still that the Rods are inefficient at sharpening.

If my daily task passes through the point the Sharpmaker cannot fix, I'll be SOL. That's exactly what happened too. 150ft of .25" Cardboard, a whole Pallet of cut out cardboard. Can the Sharpmaker fix CPM-S30V at all?

It didn't. :thumbdn:



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What is a Sharpmaker if it doesn't fix a knife that cuts open more than a letter?

1. It's pointless then for $50. I paid $30 and I'm unimpressed

2. Nothing wrong, but not all knives come in 15 degrees or 20 degrees.

3. Good for you, not a die-hard but it removes so little material that I'll be 80 before I get anything done

4. What do you cut daily?

5. Sal mentioned that you'll have to replace the stones down the road, I did not bet on a timeframe but I believe his word

I prefer something else :p because it sharpens properly and gives you a way better result in two minutes versus the Sharpmaker in thirty

To each of their own :thumbup::cool:
 
I have a DMT Aligner and a Sharpmaker. I used to have to have only the sharpmaker and I kept my knives hair popping with it. I got my military really dull and it took me a few weeks(an hour here and hour there) to get it hair popping again. Then I got my DMT aligner and I could get really dull knives hair popping in less than 30 minutes. I use my SM to retouch when I've used my knives lightly but if I get them really dull, I break out my DMT Aligner. If I had to just keep one, I'd keep my DMT aligner.
 
Josh K said:
1. Yes, because it isn't a "Reprofile-maker". You shouldn't reprofiling, just touching up.

2. Something is wrong with preset angles? :confused: Not to mention you can slot the rods in the base and use it flat at any angle you want. Or take the rods out and sharpen something you can't bring to the sharpmaker.

3. You need more practice, I have no issues with that.

4. I can touch up my knives for months without needing to scrub the stones..

5. Have you actually had to replace the brown rods? I'm betting you won't have to for 5-10 years.

I like the Sharpmaker, it's quick to setup, easy to use, and provides consistent angles. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

+1 :thumbup:
 
singularity35 said:
I have a DMT Aligner and a Sharpmaker. I used to have to have only the sharpmaker and I kept my knives hair popping with it. I got my military really dull and it took me a few weeks(an hour here and hour there) to get it hair popping again. Then I got my DMT aligner and I could get really dull knives hair popping in less than 30 minutes. I use my SM to retouch when I've used my knives lightly but if I get them really dull, I break out my DMT Aligner. If I had to just keep one, I'd keep my DMT aligner.
Click to expand...

I do pretty much the same. I think it should more appropriately be called the "Sharp Keeper". I use DMT benchstones now, but I want to step up to a Edge-Pro for dull knives and re-profiling. IMO, most knives come with a too steep edge angle. I like mine thin.
 
I would NEVER cut that much cardboard with one of my pocket knives. I recycle cardboard all the time. I use a carton knife with disposable blades. What's the point in using a $150 knife to cut cardboard instead of a trip to the dollar store and keeping a fistful of the proper tools with you?

I have used a sharpmaker to reprofile numerous times. I have laid a diamond stone against the sharpmaker rods to create a nice back bevel. I have even used binder clips to hold 1/2" strips of wet/dry sand paper on the rods. A little inventiveness in the field has helped me to sharpen premium steels including S30V without too much effort.

But if you prefer to use diamond stones then use whatever method works best for you. I would even use a rock from the garden if I could. At least the price would be right.

xtestifyx said:
You're somewhat right. The issue is still that the Rods are inefficient at sharpening.

If my daily task passes through the point the Sharpmaker cannot fix, I'll be SOL. That's exactly what happened too. 150ft of .25" Cardboard, a whole Pallet of cut out cardboard. Can the Sharpmaker fix CPM-S30V at all?

It didn't. :thumbdn:



dsc00274qd.jpg




What is a Sharpmaker if it doesn't fix a knife that cuts open more than a letter?

1. It's pointless then for $50. I paid $30 and I'm unimpressed

2. Nothing wrong, but not all knives come in 15 degrees or 20 degrees.

3. Good for you, not a die-hard but it removes so little material that I'll be 80 before I get anything done

4. What do you cut daily?

5. Sal mentioned that you'll have to replace the stones down the road, I did not bet on a timeframe but I believe his word

I prefer something else :p because it sharpens properly and gives you a way better result in two minutes versus the Sharpmaker in thirty

To each of their own :thumbup::cool:
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
I use a DMT aligner and more recently sand paper, finishing with Autosol metal polish on a mouse pad. My sharpening progression is as follows:

-Aligner stones in Lansky clamp, using the lowest setting to set the bevel. As low as it can go, which is usually a little under 15 a side.
-Up to extra-fine. Can shave here (didn't test before this) and cleanly slice paper.
upon which
-Freehand on 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper on wood. By now it can split hairs.
-Strop on autosol and mousepad.
 
In response to the OPs question, unless you are using extra course stones and trying to re-profile your edge every time you sharpen, your blade will last years, maybe decades. I re-profile about once a year or so on my main EDCs. I use the sharp (keeper) maker for touchups every couple days, sometimes less often.

Another idea, if your behind-the-edge area starts to get a little thick after a couple years of good use, try sending your knife to be re-ground to about 0.010" behind the edge. It will immediately become your sharpest and best cutting knife!
 
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