How should I store my knives?

Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
131
How should I store the folders in my collection? My MOD CQD Mark 1 manual, came opened in the box....it was secured by the pocket clip on a cardboard thing, in the open position.....so is it safe to store it in the open position, or should I store in folded?

Also, my Zero Tolerance 0300 came folded in the box.....so is it safe to store it open, or should I store it folded? The ZT0300 is a framelock, and MOD CQD Mark 1 is a plunge lock, if those details matter.....thanks for the help guys!

- G19Cgnr
 
In 45 years of owning folders, I've never heard any reason why there would be any harm in storing them either open or closed, but perhaps I've missed something here.
 
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I like to store them open. Mostly for aesthetics but also to keep tension off the spring on my autos.
 
So solidsoldier, do you reckon that the Assisted Opening mechanism of the ZT300 would be ok to store in the open position? How bout the plunge lock on my manual open MOD CQD Mark 1? Would that one be ok to store open as well? I mean, it came from the factory in the open postion?
 
It would certainly be ok to do so.

BTW, what unit are you... A long time ago, I was an 11c with the 502 INF. Went to Mosul with them 7-03 t0 2-04.
 
AH! A fellow Screaming Eagle! I'm with 3-327.....we're a RSTA (Recon, Surveillance, and Target Acquisition) unit now....changed from regular line infantry, to that....I just got back from a tour in the Salah Ad Din province (Balad) area of Iraq.
 
Here's my goofy ass :D
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Ah! The good old M240B.....how I do LOATHE carrying it, but when the crap hits the fan, you'll be glad you have it! Here's one for ya solid!

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Me and one of the Iraqi National Police....
 
This was with an old school Iraqi cop, we were guarding a bank during the currency changeover from the Saddam dinar to the new stuff.
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Last army pic I post on this thread... I swear ;)

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Wow....its crazy to see how much equipment and such has changed since then....now all theses guys are all decked out in equipment we gave them and such.
 
I was the only guy in my platoon who had a Surefire. I bought an E2 before I deployed. We weren't issued frag or 40mm. I wore a "suicide vest" on patrol the first half of my deployment. Got my own IBA after one of our guys PCS'd. Had to borrow whenever I could.
 
Back to the subject-it doesn't matter how you store them. There is no need to take tension off the spring-they don't wear out.
 
The spring will only wear out if you open/close all the time. :thumbup: Pick a position and stick with it! =D If it were to wear out, just send it back to the manf. I've had to send my MOD CQD Mark II back to the manf twice (Due to lock problems). If they will take care of a lock problem, a spring problem would be a joke to them. :D
 
I've stored my autos open, to 'save' the springs, all others closed.
But if Bill DeS says it doesn't matter (and he ought to know), I may re-think/change my position.
Thanks, Bill, I've wondered about that...especially for those stilletto-type autos with hefty leaf springs...they're under a lot of pressure when cocked, and I wondered if they'd take a 'set'.

BTW, speaking of storage, I saw this stuff at a store the other day:
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Website at : http://no-rust-shield.3inone.com/

Apparently you just drop this package into your storage box and it inhibits rust via a magic vapor...same way machinists' tools are protected by that specially coated paper.

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?
 
I've stored my autos open, to 'save' the springs, all others closed.
But if Bill DeS says it doesn't matter (and he ought to know), I may re-think/change my position.
Thanks, Bill, I've wondered about that...especially for those stilletto-type autos with hefty leaf springs...they're under a lot of pressure when cocked, and I wondered if they'd take a 'set'.

BTW, speaking of storage, I saw this stuff at a store the other day:
hdr_home21734965.jpg


Website at : http://no-rust-shield.3inone.com/

Apparently you just drop this package into your storage box and it inhibits rust via a magic vapor...same way machinists' tools are protected by that specially coated paper.

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

The rust-shield seems like a neat idea, though I can't imagine it having any advantage over oiling tools prior to storage. The ad says it lasts for only a few months, so I don't think it would be economical. Coat your knives with mineral oil and if you really want, store with an easily reactivatable desiccant (silica gel, toasted rice, activated carbon...) and you should be set.

Back on topic: I don't think it will make any noticeable difference as to how your store the knives. That said, I personally prefer to store my collectibles open, both for viewing purposes and the assurance that the springs & liner are free of tension. If you're worried, you can always request a spare torsion bar from the manufacturer. Kershaw AO knives are completely free of tension/compression when open; in fact, I find that the springs sometimes rattle when the knife is open.
 
Back to the subject-it doesn't matter how you store them. There is no need to take tension off the spring-they don't wear out.

This auto custom by WT Fuller has been stored since 1978 in the closed position, it is still faster on opening and locks up tighter than any other production auto I have which I also store closed. I store closed because shelf space is limited. :D
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Final note on vapor-type rust inhibitors:
If you have access to Russian 7.62X39 ammo (Wolf brand, etc), with the steel cases,
they pack a small sheet of rust inhibitor paper between each layer of ammo.
Throw a few of those sheets into your knife storage boxes.
Don't know how long they last, but apparently a long time...
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