How thick-Satanite?

[PaMtnBkr]

I have built a forge from a 14"x8" Dia Pc of steel tubing w/2"Kaowool insulation. I have a 1/8" thick layer of Satanite over the Kaowool. Should I go thicker on the Satanite? Eventually I plan on getting some ITC-100 or equivalent, but that's down the road. I'm still buying hammers, tongs and belts. I assume this would help stabilize the temps? How thick do most folks recommend? I do not do any forge welding but do plan of doing some forging as well as simple heat treating. Thank you!

 

[Cody Hofsommer]

http://hightemptools.com/faq.html#Satanite
I went about 1/4 in four or so layers. I haven't had it going to long, but works like a charm.

 

[Andy Lewis]

You picked a pipe stock size you will be very happy with I expect. I agree with Cody; the sweet spot seems to be around a quarter inch of Satanite. I build up the entry port's refractory to over 3/8" right from the beginning because of the wear and abuse concentrated there. My current liner is going on three years with no cracking or other problems, but I do not weld in this forge. The refractory has just enough mass to both even out and buffer your forge temps without taking forever to come to heat like castable refractories can.

Also wanted to offer my opinion that there is simply no equivalent to ITC-100. I used another common IR reflector product on a rebuild of my last forge - because it was cheaper. No comparison IMO. I eventually sprung for the ITC-100 again and all worked as expected. It makes a functional difference in upper temp range and fuel use.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Yes, 1/4", built up in several layers . Multiple layers dry and cure better than one thick layer. With 2" wool, 1/4" of satanite, and a good coating of ITC-100 that forge you are building will run wonderful. The ITC-100 doesn't need to be very thick, as long as it fully coats the satanite. Make sure the satanite is fully cured and has been fired before painting on the ITC-100.
For a forge chamber your size a quarter pint of ITC-100 will just do the job. A half pint would allow a second coat. I would spent the extra $15.

If you haven't figured the build on the forge ends yet, Insboard works great. It cuts and fits the end of the pipe easily, and has great refractory properties. You just mortar it in place with satanite.
You don't even need to mortar it in place if you don't want to. just use two 1 foot squares of Insboard and cut the front port shape in one. Place it over the front of your forge and place some hard firebricks under the port to hold the front in place. To block off the back opening when not needed, place the other 1 foot square of insulboard over the opening with a couple bricks behind it.

 

[PaMtnBkr]

Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback. Form my back end, I made a plate w/a 3x3 cut-out that clips onto the end over the body of the forge. This plate has 2" of Kaowool with satanite over it. I close up the opening w/a hard firebrick. For the front I have a number of hard firebricks that I maneuver around to the size I need. I am also using a 2" Dia heavy black steel tube for my muffle. It's right at 11" seems to do the trick. Thanks again guys! Don

 

[gixxer1237]

What do you do if your Satanite cracks? Mine did and it had a week to dry before firing.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Dampen the crack area with water and patch it up with more satanite. Cracking usually occurs because the satanite is mixed too wet, or it is put on too thick. This is why applying in several thin layers works best. Apply a thin layer, dry for a day or two, fire , apply another layer, repeat.

 

[gixxer1237]

I did 4 thin layers with a week drying and firing in between. But I may have mixed to wet cause me and the old lady had a several minute debate on the consistency of sour cream...