How tight are the fasteners on the Southard?

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Jun 13, 2007
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I went to slightly adjust the pivot on my Southard and it will NOT budge. I mean it's really on there... both sides. I'm use to other Spydercos, Benchmades and KAI products, and I've never had an issue at all.

What gives? (Hint- it ain't the pivot!) :)
 
Cute 9blades. :)

Well nevermind guys. I broke out a brand new tool, identical to the one I was using before but the rubber grip was slipping a little, so the new one made it a little easier.

It's a very interesting knife. I loosened the pivot just a hair and the flipping action sucked. Tightened it back tight (rororo you were right) and it flips better than when it was new a couple of days ago. This is my first foray into bearing equipped knives, and while I can't (honestly) say they are smoother than one of my Benchmades, they are intriguing.

Very cool design! :thumbup:
 
Cute 9blades. :)

Well nevermind guys. I broke out a brand new tool, identical to the one I was using before but the rubber grip was slipping a little, so the new one made it a little easier.

It's a very interesting knife. I loosened the pivot just a hair and the flipping action sucked. Tightened it back tight (rororo you were right) and it flips better than when it was new a couple of days ago. This is my first foray into bearing equipped knives, and while I can't (honestly) say they are smoother than one of my Benchmades, they are intriguing.

Very cool design! :thumbup:

The pivot design the Southard is not really meant to be adjusted for tension, other pivot designs like the on in the ZT 561 can however.
 
From what I can tell the pivot screws are only good to adjust centering. I found it best to tighten them evenly and all the way tight for best centering and action. I however had a problem with one of the pillar screws, look closely you can see a torx driver piece that broke off in the screw right above the laynard hole. I ended up having to drill it out from the back side because the STR clip I bought uses that pillar (not that screw, he sent a slightly longer screw as needed). I really wish they would have used at least T8 size screws (T10 like the pivot would have been better) for the pillars. The screws themselves are excellent quality, good enough to cause me to twist off the tip of a T6 driver.
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The pivot design the Southard is not really meant to be adjusted for tension, other pivot designs like the on in the ZT 561 can however.

I guess the ZTs must be different from batch to batch. Mne has the pivot all the way tight and it flips easily.
 
I guess the ZTs must be different from batch to batch. Mne has the pivot all the way tight and it flips easily.

Maybe so. Mine can be adjusted for tension, so it can flip super fast or slower.
Still smooth even when it's completely tightened down.
 
Cute 9blades. :)

while I can't (honestly) say they are smoother than one of my Benchmades

bearing flippers require some breaking in. with a few hundred flips and proper lubrication the southard will be significantly smoother without any (and I mean 0) side to side play. Best thing to do to experience this is to simply let the knife work in and try not to "fix" the pivot. It will wear itself in to an unbelievably smooth operating knife.

Maybe so. Mine can be adjusted for tension, so it can flip super fast or slower.
Still smooth even when it's completely tightened down.

I can tighten my 0560 to the point to where the blade wont move period. There is a point were it gets snug then slightly after that it just locks everything up.
 
I had mine tightened down to the exact point where there was real resistance, but after awhile it developed pretty serious binding. I took it apart removing both pivot screws and cleaning it several times, dropping some weapons grease in, some blue loctite, etc.. Had a heck of a time getting it centered again and could not get rid of the binding. Gave up. Came back the next day and the binding was gone. It's ever so slightly off center but I'm afraid to do any more adjustment. I'll let it break in some more before I try that. Still my favorite knife.
 
Maybe so. Mine can be adjusted for tension, so it can flip super fast or slower.
Still smooth even when it's completely tightened down.

A tip for folders that use bearings in a nylon carriage or IKBS, do not use grease. It binds up and pulls in a ton of dirt, lint, etc. instead use a light oil. Some people recommend motor oil. I've tried it on non bearing flippers and it works well.
 
bearing flippers require some breaking in. with a few hundred flips and proper lubrication the southard will be significantly smoother without any (and I mean 0) side to side play. Best thing to do to experience this is to simply let the knife work in and try not to "fix" the pivot. It will wear itself in to an unbelievably smooth operating knife.



I can tighten my 0560 to the point to where the blade wont move period. There is a point were it gets snug then slightly after that it just locks everything up.

I guess I wasn't trying to adjust anything really, it just bothered me that it wouldn't budge for when (if) I decide to change the scale.

I should also say that I don't believe that this particular example could possibly be more smooth. There is no play whatsoever, the arc of the blade, when done ultra-slowly reveals absolutely no hiccupps, bindings or any kind or micro grinding feel and the blade swings completely free when the lockbar pressure is taken off. A truly fine example of (what I can only assume is) perfect tolerances. My comment was more in praise of my experience with a particular (conventionally pivoted) Benchmade than anything else, but with the inclusion of an absolute lack of any side to side play the Southard is a more elegant (if more complex and expensive) solution. The large FB washers in the BKC knife were nearly perfect. There was no play (per-se), but you could push the blade over just the *slightest* amount.

The Southard, for me, is the new high watermark. :thumbup:
 
A tip for folders that use bearings in a nylon carriage or IKBS, do not use grease. It binds up and pulls in a ton of dirt, lint, etc. instead use a light oil. Some people recommend motor oil. I've tried it on non bearing flippers and it works well.

I don't use grease or oil on ball bearing systems. Unless there's galling, then I use PTFE lubricant.
 
I don't use grease or oil on ball bearing systems. Unless there's galling, then I use PTFE lubricant.

Is that a dry lube? I've got some that I bought and realized that it doesn't work well for my regular (Pb) knives. The dry lube actually works really well for Opinels. Wood + liquid = swelling and all.

I'll take a pic of what I'm talking about and you guys can tell me if it's the right stuff for a Southard.

Give me a few mins...
 
PTFE:
Polytetrafluoroethylene

It's a low friction polymer, pretty good stuff. It's non toxic, and stable at room temps. Shouldn't interact with any metals or materials in most places.

The lubricant I use is one that Radioshack sells. It has PTFE.
 
This is the stuff.

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4 oz Non-Stick LubricantUnique dry-film Teflon coating and lubricant. Clean, long-lasting micro-thin, dirt-resistant coating. Effective from -100F to +500F. Uses proprietary resin-bonding technology. For tight tolerance, metal-on-metal applications. Creates a thin, dirt-repelling, chemical-resistant coating. Safe for all surfaces. Does not contain silicone.
 
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