How to add a little more grip to smooth handled CS

Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
400
Hello Everyone,

I recently acquired a Urgent Fury CS. I love the feel of it, it’s just the grip is super smooth. Is there something that can be done (without ruining the handle) to make it a little more grippy? Kinda like how people stipple their plastic pistols, but not that extreme. Thanks in advance for any help :)
 

Attachments

  • A6117A01-1E79-4818-8FE7-42AA290E3D89.jpeg
    A6117A01-1E79-4818-8FE7-42AA290E3D89.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 4
Vet Wrap. Works well, doesn't add a lot of thickness and protects what is underneath.
JsxyTi2.jpg
 
You can either add grip wraps as mentioned above or you can also sand or media blast yours just a little. You have “solid” marbles G-10 scales, so probably won’t hurt anything to have a little texture on there. It’ll take the luster off though.

I’d start with the wraps. Lots of color choices too.
 
You can either add grip wraps as mentioned above or you can also sand or media blast yours just a little. You have “solid” marbles G-10 scales, so probably won’t hurt anything to have a little texture on there. It’ll take the luster off though.

I’d start with the wraps. Lots of color choices too.
Yes maybe bead blast or sanding. I want something more permanent. It’s literally does feel like marble handles lol
 
Last edited:
I like the handle wrap ideas. I've tried flex seal and it's ok but not great.. I bet flex tape would work fantastic but not sure of the tacky glue residue if you decide to remove it at any point. Sanding is also a good option. I like modding stuff though so I would be inclined to try my hand at stipling it.. but I'm retarded ymmv lol
 
I would try some Scotchbrite industrial hand pads. You can buy a little kit with all the grits and just start on the fine side and work your way back to where it is grippy enough. The thing about smooth G-10 is it tends to actually be pretty grippy until it gets wet, then you'll appreciate the texture quite a bit. That's also why micarta/G-10 tends to all be machined into patterns because the nature of the material is quite smooth because it lacks a coarse grain that you may find in natural materials.
 
Last edited:
One that I've seen, and tried is take bicycle innertube. I did it to a HR1 I traded to a buddy.

It adds some thickness, and doesn't work on all handles. The rubber is "sticky" and adds some thickness. Also helps if you hunt in Alaska winters.

I also have meat paws, so I liked the thicker HR1 handle for my hand.

IF you are okay with changing the handle, I would do what Dave Brown did with a round file, then hit the whole thing with 60 or 80 grit sand paper.


And if it was micarta, I'd suggest gently warm up the handle and bees wax. I like the way that feels more then G10 myself.
 
Kdbutler2 - I have one with micarta handles that are too smooth. What is the end result from heating up the handle and putting bees wax on it? I am at the point where I am going to file / sand like David did above. That looks like it turned out pretty well.

Interested to hear more about your idea though first.

Thanks in advance.
 
Kdbutler2 - I have one with micarta handles that are too smooth. What is the end result from heating up the handle and putting bees wax on it? I am at the point where I am going to file / sand like David did above. That looks like it turned out pretty well.

Interested to hear more about your idea though first.

Thanks in advance.

Beeswax is very tacky and adds grip along with water resistance but it must be heated to really be absorbed into the pores or the handle because it's a solid at room temperature. Another option would be to actually make a mixture of some kind of oil w/ beeswax by heating in a cooking pan and then allowing to cool while stirring. Sometimes this is called 'board butter' or 'wood butter'
 
Thank you for the response. I thought it might have been something along those lines. I think I might stick with a file and sanding afterwards. It seems like having a mostly permanently sticky handle would present its' own issues later on down the road.
 
Thank you for the response. I thought it might have been something along those lines. I think I might stick with a file and sanding afterwards. It seems like having a mostly permanently sticky handle would present its' own issues later on down the road.

Not permanent, in fact beeswax should be able to be removed with something like mineral spirits or other solvents. Permanent would in fact be what you describe taking any kind of abrasives to the handle and that would be my last choice after exhausting other options first.


Beeswax won’t decompose on its own, neither will it dissolve in water. You’ll have to use organic solvents to dissolve it, such as acetone, benzene, ether, or xylol. However, many of those substances aren’t safe for human use, so you need to be careful.

I'd suggest Odie's Safer Solvent, though it's pricey for a quart.... https://www.odiesoil.com/odies-safer-solvent-32-oz/

Another safer option is what I have on hand personally that's not too pricey .... https://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-gamsol-odorless-mineral-spirits/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=00456-1016&campaign=Blick Shopping - 1&adgroup=Shopping 1&keyword=&matchtype=e&msclkid=4a4864bd81221274cb8207a94082b0d5&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Blick Shopping - 1&utm_term=4577335631065697&utm_content=Shopping 1
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the response. I thought it might have been something along those lines. I think I might stick with a file and sanding afterwards. It seems like having a mostly permanently sticky handle would present its' own issues later on down the road.
For me, I used a open flame on my oven after thoroughly cleaning. Was real careful. Like toasting an expensive tortilla. But not that hot.

I also heated up the beeswax itself and used it like a crayon to draw the wax on.

Afterwards, i used a terry cloth to clean it all up

It will also darken the micarta to a more solid color.

And sticky isn't the right word for it. But it adds some grip, which I like.
 
Beeswax is very tacky and adds grip along with water resistance but it must be heated to really be absorbed into the pores or the handle because it's a solid at room temperature. Another option would be to actually make a mixture of some kind of oil w/ beeswax by heating in a cooking pan and then allowing to cool while stirring. Sometimes this is called 'board butter' or 'wood butter'
Here is what I use for my good quality leather boots. Kinda like what you are describing. But once this stuff meets friction/heat it gets soft.

 
That’s awesome, that’s what I’m looking at. How much better is the grip? Also, are you offering this as a service ;)
Grip is much better
Just keep in mind this is pretty permanent modification and Busse may not warranty it
But if you would like me to do it, e-mail me and we can work it out.
 
Here is what I use for my good quality leather boots. Kinda like what you are describing. But once this stuff meets friction/heat it gets soft.


I would suggest this as likely the best wax finish, this should harden up and set (polymerize) to become stable for handling. I say likely because I have no direct experience with it but they seem to make wonderful products and will be trying some soon if I can stop buying Busse long enough to purchase other necessities lol.

 
Back
Top