How to brows villager models available? also ww2 vs m43 vs British army.

T

travis1988

Joined
Oct 24, 2014
Messages
3
Hi everybody, I have wanted a kukri for quite a while and now that I have a bit of cash I think I am going to finally be able to get one.
I am thinking of the WW2 model or British service, though the m43 is supposed to be an upgraded version of the ww2. I figure if these were good enough for the Troops in WW2 to use as a camp and field knife and then be used in combat if needed, it should work well for my needs.
which of these do you guys recommend?It will be my first one.

I noticed on the website they list villager models, which sound like the less pretty version of their regular knives. That is fine as mine would be more of a worker than a show on the wall piece and if it saves me money even better.

The thing is Himalayan imports website doesn't seem to work all that well. They mention villager models and have a link to inquire about them, but when i click on it nothing happens, same when I click on the email to ask.I know they have a phone number but you cant get pics over the phone and I would hate to bother them asking all the questions and prices etc if there is a way to see a list or something.

Thank you.
 
The best way to get a villager or other non webstore model is on this forum. Aunt Yangdu posts deals of the day or DOTD's. The DOTD are were most of us get our HI kukris. More than half of the kukri styles aren't listed. There are also links in this forum to a more complete selection. I think you might like an ASTK kukri. It's like a villager but has a full tang blade with a hella strong reputation. Villagers like the KLUVK and DBUVK don't come with sheaths, Karda, or chakma. Look at the pictures on this forum for ideas.
 
Bawanna said:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ihar-gift-from-Keshar-Lal-Dhan-Bahadur-and-HI

I think a KLVUK (villager) is always a good first khukri option. There are still a few left from the DOD listed above.

Tremendous value and a great knife that begs to be used. Also a good way of determining if you want heavier or longer or whatever after you use it a bit.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with Bawanna, especially if you want a working kukri. The KLUVK and DBVUK are a solid choice but remember you will have to make sheath or have one made for it. They have kydex kits for under 20 bucks, its super easy to make a sheath as long as you have a working oven.
 
And we have a few leather benders and kydex melters here as members. Wildman does good machete and khukri sheath.

Pugs is temporarily overwelmed at the moment. I don't recall who does kydex, JW Bensinger I think?
 
Bawanna said:
And we have a few leather benders and kydex melters here as members. Wildman does good machete and khukri sheath.

Pugs is temporarily overwelmed at the moment. I don't recall who does kydex, JW Bensinger I think?
Click to expand...

Doesn't Rhino do Kydex? I could easily be wrong, I remember seeing a thread on it, I just can't find it.
 
Thanks for help. looking at the KLUVK model and 45 bucks looks like a heck of a bargain.
anybody know how thick the blades are? Also can you buy the Karda, and chakma separate?
or are they really not useful?

Edit the email link still dosnt work, have tried IE,Firefox and chrome,still not opening up.
 
Hi Trav! Welcome to the shark infested waters of the HI sub-forum. If the link does not work for you, go back to the first page and search for: Tihar gift from Keshar Lal, Dhan Bahadur and HI on 10-20-2014. I have a KLVUK and use it a bunch. No pansy as*ed playing around, either. There is no karda & chakmak, nor sheath. A karda is not needed at all as it is but a small knife for small chores. The Chakmak is a steel used to realign the blade's edge to help keep it working at optimum, but it does not actually sharpen it. I use a plain whet stone to keep mine up to snuff. Will get a sheath from one of the amigos when my wife finally says I can afford one. You must be the judge to purchase or not to purchase, but for the pittance of money, you'll get one hard worker.
 
Thanks guys, as Fate would have it, called in to ask about the blems and they had an 18 inch WW2 model for 85... so I couldn't resist lol
Its a bit bigger and heavier than I originally wanted, 18 inch and 33oz. was looking at the 16inch model. but for under half price how could I say no?
I figure if It is a bit big and heavy for what I want then I'm sure someone here would want to take it off my hands.

I'm excited. I also wanted to get the jkm- for my brothers xmas gift,looks like a great knife for a hunter, but they were out,Darn.
 
cul4u01 said:
Doesn't Rhino do Kydex? I could easily be wrong, I remember seeing a thread on it, I just can't find it.
Click to expand...

Roninsgrips does very fine Kydex bending. Nice hardware etc. Quality stuff.
Welcom Travis I think them other guys pretty much covered it. I agree with the KLVUK being a great starter:thumbup: Many other good starters as well if you are willing to pay more but you cant go wrong with HI Quality and service. Many of us have scores of blades so careful it is addictive.
 
travis1988 said:
Thanks for help. looking at the KLUVK model and 45 bucks looks like a heck of a bargain.
anybody know how thick the blades are? Also can you buy the Karda, and chakma separate?
or are they really not useful?
Click to expand...

I agree that the KLVUK model would be a good choice. Spine thicknesses vary a bit, since these are hand-made with traditional tools and techniques. However, I think the KLVUK would be in the range 1/4" to 3/8" at the thickest part of the spine.

The karda and chakma are part of the tradition, but not really necessary. You can get the same functionality with a small pocket knife.

The HI M43 is usually thicker and heavier than the vintage WW2 blades. In terms of functionality, if not looks, the KLVUK might be a closer match to the WW2 khukuris. Other people might have different opinions; that's what makes horseracing.

I suggest browsing through DOTD posts by Yangdu for the past few weeks on this forum. That will show you photos, lengths, weights, prices and other information about different models.

Some points of terminology:

1. HI always gives overall length, rather than blade length. So an 18" length means 18" including the handle.

2. A "villager" model is not cheaper or lower quality. In HI jargon, "villager" means a satin finish blade, rather than polished. Some people prefer it that way.

3. The KLVUK is a "true villager" in the sense that it is closer to what a Nepali villager might use. The forging scales are left on and less time is put into the overall finish and appearance of the knife, hence the reduced price, but there is no loss of functionality or strength.

4. A "blem" is a knife sold here on the forum at a reduced price because of a blemish that usually can be fixed rather easily, most often a crack in the handle from drying out too fast (due to the difference in climate from Nepal where they are made to Yangdu's storage area in Reno, Nevada). A "blem" would have just as good a blade as a "non-blem" but needs a bit of work by the purchaser.

Good luck and let us know what you end up with, preferably with pictures.
 
ndoghouse said:
Roninsgrips does very fine Kydex bending. Nice hardware etc. Quality stuff.
Welcom Travis I think them other guys pretty much covered it. I agree with the KLVUK being a great starter:thumbup: Many other good starters as well if you are willing to pay more but you cant go wrong with HI Quality and service. Many of us have scores of blades so careful it is addictive.
Click to expand...

Roninsgrips - that's the one I meant! Thanks Dog!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top