How to care for "high carbon" knives

G

gregvisser

Joined
Jan 17, 2004
Messages
283
Hi guys,

I am just about to buy a Cold Steel Master Hunter in Carbon V (similar to O1 or 1059). I wanted something from hard material to keep an edge longer, but from what I read, this material is fairly prone to rust. Is there any special care I can take to minimize this?

I'll also be using the knife a fair bit - any sharpening system that you can recommend will also be appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg
 
Just clean the edge after use and keep it dry. The worst thing you could do is to sheath the knife in a wet leather sheath. Keep that sheath dry.

Any sharpening system or combination of stones will perform as well with the Trailmaster as any other blade. Spyderco Sharpmaker or other 'systems' are fine for edge-maintenance, but if you choose to re-profile the edge bevels, the 'systems' are not really suitable.

Reprofiling is best done with a coarse diamond benchstone or inexpensive coarse carborundum stone. If you're inexperienced or not confident with hand-stoning, it's probably best to have this done commercially with a belt-sander - and then use your 'system' to maintain the edge.

Hope this helps!
 
I have several carbon V knives and they require less maintenance than most think a carbon tool steel knife would need.

Yes, the steel will rust if left wet long enough and can show surface rust in a short period of time. It's not that difficult to keep carbon steel knives from rusting.

I'll usually just wash the knife down in hot water, dry thoroughly, put as light coat of fp-10 or 3-1 oil on the blade, then wipe the excess off and tuck it away in the sheath.

Many will tell you not to store a carbon knife in the leather sheath and thats probably a good idea if it will sit for years on end, especially if it will stored in a moisture laden environ like Florida, Louisiana, etc.

I reside in NE, USA and have kept a Moran camp knife in carbon steel sheathed in leather for over 14 years [ I never use it ] will NO ill effects to the steel in surface rust or otherwise. The brass guard has discolored quite a bit but thats not really due to the sheath as well.

I do not store my high dollar customs in tool steels in their sheaths, yet if they were stored like that I would think it might be years [ the way they are stored in sealed plastic containers ] before they exhibited any signs of a problem.

I keep a light coat of oil on the blades and the tool steels are always "good to go" when I need them. I don't worry at all about them developing a problem.

As gud4u stated, if the sheath gets wet, make sure the knife is removed as soon as possible and not stored for any length of time that way or you will have major problems.

Most put too much credence and worry in the tool steeled blades rusting away and they only need minimal maintenance over the stainless steels.

My ka-bar in 1095 has been sheathed for 30+ years continuously, used, washed, dried, oiled and put away for years between useage with no issues of it developing even surface rust.

Brownie
 
Many on these forums will recommend waxing the blade with Briwax or other high-end waxes. I have done quite well with good old turtle wax. Anyway, waxing is one way to go.
 
If you're not going to be using it for more than a week or so, wax it with Renissance Wax.

Sometimes, people get concerned about using Ren Wax on a knife that they may subsequently use for food preparation. The jar cautions about it being poisonous. What's poisonous (and what gives the odor) is the petrolium spirits that are the carrier for the wax. When you apply it, that carrier evaporates away (you can tell because the finished blade has no odor). What's left is a microscopically-thin layer of wax. Wax is actually a common food ingredient especially in candies. A few chocolate bon-bons probably have more wax on 'em that your blade does. Any wax that comes off your blade into the food will pass harmlessly through the body and will not discolor of affect the flavor of your food.

If it really bothers you, Ren Wax is a museum-grade product. One of the rules for museums is: don't do anything that can't be undone. Ren Wax can be removed with an amoniated cleaner such as Windex.

Some people worry about wax build-up if they wax a knife frequently. Ren Wax is self-limiting. Each time you apply a new coat, those solvent spirits that carry the new wax also dissolve and remove the old layer.
 
I'm with Brownie....too many worry too much about the care of carbon steel blades. I just keep them clean and dry and have never had any problems in thirty years with rust/corrosion.
 
Is this before, or after you plunge it through a car door....?

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

(no offense to you personally, bro)


Use beeswax or mineral oil. Safe, natural, easy to get/use.
 
Also depends how often it get used, if you store it for longer periods, I like something that leaves a film on it. Just my $0.02 p.s. I have a Master Hunter also, great knife !!
 
I have just started using a lanolin based spray - its called "Lanox" over here and it is great.
 
Thanks for some solid advice guys. I will be using the knife on food (well, dead animals that will become food eventually), so I really like the beeswax idea. The oil is also a good plan - maybe I'll try a film of olive oil on the blade...

Also good advice on keeping the sheath dry.

Cheers,

Greg
 
Wipe the blood off the knife as soon as possible. Carbon steel may discolor slightly even if you take care of it, but this doesn't cause problems.
 
I'd caution against olive (or other plant oil) for long-term storage. These oils can go rancid. For long-term storage, use a light coat of a petrolium or mineral oil. Better yet, wax.
 
Mineral oil is very good.

Good heads up Gollnick, I forgot to mention that. I use it fairly regularly on my 8 lb. Mastadon ivory block to keep it from drying out, as well as my staff and canes.

Brownie
 
I used to oil my carbon steel knives, but I don't anymore; there's just no need to if you live in a dry enviroment, stay clear of moisture, and keep the blades clean. You'll eventually get dark "stains" on a carbon steel blade, but that's natural and it doesn't hurt the steel.
 
I wipe my carbon steel blades down with BreakFree when I'm going to store them for any length of time.
 
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