How to change angles 15 degree to 10 degrees.

[DavidL41]

On a scandi grind that is 15 degrees where would I start to thin it down to 10 degrees? Would I hold it at 10 degrees and grind off near the middle of the bevel till everything is level? Should this be done on a stone or belt grinder?

How do I go from 10 to 15? create a micro bevel/secondary bevel and keep grinding the bevel closest to the edge till it replaces the primary bevel? Should this be done on a stone or belt grinder.

Thanks in advance.

 

[TravisH]

Hmmm ... I'm no pro but feel confident enough in my abilities to try such a reprofile so ...

I'd take my Edge Pro clone, install my coarsest diamond stone (100grit), setup the blade, match the existing bevel at 15°, then lower it to 10°, and grind away.

 

[DavidHoback]

Going from a 15 to 10 Scandi grind by hand, would take a considerable amount of time. 100grit diamond stone would take..well, you wanna start with forever? Honestly, you would need files to even think of it. But I wouldn't even want to without a belt grinder. Even a Harbor Freight 1x30 and cheap belts would be light years ahead of doing it by hand.

 

[HeavyHanded]

On a scandi grind that is 15 degrees where would I start to thin it down to 10 degrees? Would I hold it at 10 degrees and grind off near the middle of the bevel till everything is level? Should this be done on a stone or belt grinder?

How do I go from 10 to 15? create a micro bevel/secondary bevel and keep grinding the bevel closest to the edge till it replaces the primary bevel? Should this be done on a stone or belt grinder.

Thanks in advance.

Mark up the entire bevel with a Sharpie and grind right on top of the existing shoulder toward the edge. This will push the shoulder further up the blade face toward the spine. Most Scandi will have a slight convex to begin with and you could start at the midpoint, just flattening them out will make the edge more acute. But is not the best idea, in the event the edge was reasonably flat to begin with, you will have to grind the shoulder back anyway.

You want to keep as much of the original width as possible anytime you do a regrind - this is the primary concern.

To change from 10 - 15, you'd be best off making it into a convex, or use a microbevel. By the time you grind those 5° per side back off to the same shoulder, you'll have ground most of the life from the edge.

 

[David Martin]

He does ask for both ways. I took his inquiry to be about going from 15* to 10*. In such case, you could do it on a stone with a steady hand.
By laying the blade nearly flat and grind the rounded convex portion of that thick area flat and blend it in down to the bevel. Using a coarse stone and work it finer. With the right stone it would not take long. Using the black ACE Hardware stone I've done it pretty quick. DM

 

[banksy]

Most Scandi will have a slight convex to begin with and you could start at the midpoint, just flattening them out will make the edge more acute. But is not the best idea, in the event the edge was reasonably flat to begin with, you will have to grind the shoulder back anyway.

Interesting, all of my Scandis have had hollow bevels from the factory. Flattening them out takes quite a bit of work.

 

[HeavyHanded]

Interesting, all of my Scandis have had hollow bevels from the factory. Flattening them out takes quite a bit of work.

Y'know, some of mine have come that way as well. But, the usual appearance is of an edge that has been roughed on a wheel and then worked out on a belt - sort of a hollow grind in the center of a convex. My experience being limited to Condor, Mora and Jarvenpaa.