- Joined
- Mar 5, 2013
- Messages
- 7
I was hoping to get advice on how to remove the rust in the markings please, I have not tried anything as I do not want to harm the blade.
thank you all.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
How to clean rust from markings please?
- Thread starter Austrian mma
- Start date
I was hoping to get advice on how to remove the rust in the markings please, I have not tried anything as I do not want to harm the blade.
thank you all.
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2005
- Messages
- 2,714
what about a rust erasor?? it is like a pencil erasor but made for rust.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2013
- Messages
- 7
thank you, can i get them in a store/hardware store or are they best online?
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2005
- Messages
- 2,714
I got them from my supplier. do you have a local gun and knife show?? if so you might what to try there. I use to sell them for $5.00 each but I dont know what the price is today for them. if I new sombody that had them for sale I would be more that happy to tell you. they are being made by united cuttlery by the way.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,440
The rust erasers are abrasive (silicon carbide), and will leave a somewhat 'satin' finish behind (fine scratches). If you don't want to otherwise alter the patina/finish on the blade, I'd avoid using those.
Some WD-40 applied and allowed to soak for a little bit, would loosen up much of that rust. Scrubbing it with a toothbrush or a brass brush could also help in conjunction with the WD-40. Mineral oil can also be used instead of the WD-40. Sometimes very fine steel wool (#0000) works well with WD-40, though it needs to be used lightly. On newer and more abrasion-resistant steels, it'd be fine. On older blades, it sometimes may or may not scratch a little bit. If used lightly, with some lube/oil/WD-40, it'll likely be fine, but you might test a small spot first, just to be sure.
A product called Bar Keepers Friend is about the most effective rust remover, but it uses oxalic acid. If used with water, and not allowed to remain in contact with the steel for more than ~30 seconds or so, it works very well (apply & rub specific spots with a Q-tip, with the powder mixed to a paste with water). The acid will do virtually all the work, so very little scrubbing is needed. Light surface rust will disappear in seconds. It may also remove some patina in the process, but that can come back in time. Just make sure to thoroughly rinse the blade in running water afterwards, and dry/lube/protect the blade as you ordinarily would.
David
Some WD-40 applied and allowed to soak for a little bit, would loosen up much of that rust. Scrubbing it with a toothbrush or a brass brush could also help in conjunction with the WD-40. Mineral oil can also be used instead of the WD-40. Sometimes very fine steel wool (#0000) works well with WD-40, though it needs to be used lightly. On newer and more abrasion-resistant steels, it'd be fine. On older blades, it sometimes may or may not scratch a little bit. If used lightly, with some lube/oil/WD-40, it'll likely be fine, but you might test a small spot first, just to be sure.
A product called Bar Keepers Friend is about the most effective rust remover, but it uses oxalic acid. If used with water, and not allowed to remain in contact with the steel for more than ~30 seconds or so, it works very well (apply & rub specific spots with a Q-tip, with the powder mixed to a paste with water). The acid will do virtually all the work, so very little scrubbing is needed. Light surface rust will disappear in seconds. It may also remove some patina in the process, but that can come back in time. Just make sure to thoroughly rinse the blade in running water afterwards, and dry/lube/protect the blade as you ordinarily would.
David
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2013
- Messages
- 7
thank you all i will read up on those suggested, great forum here.
also could someone point me to a ww2 specialist, in particular with blades, as I know of these markings on my dagger and who they are(the maker) but unsure as to what this was for.
if not i will post in a different section.
thank you guys.
also could someone point me to a ww2 specialist, in particular with blades, as I know of these markings on my dagger and who they are(the maker) but unsure as to what this was for.
if not i will post in a different section.
thank you guys.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,440
For identification info, Bernard Levine's sub-forum here is the best resource. He STRONGLY encourages quality photos (I think yours look good, and additional pics of the entire knife are useful to him), and usually won't reply unless he has a good look at knives posted:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/f...-Levine-s-Knife-Collecting-amp-Identification
David