How to clean up a rough bolster

C

Cyo

Joined
Apr 13, 2009
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225
Perhaps this is not the proper forum, but since it's a question regarding my GEC Premium Trapper I thought I'd start here.

A little over a week ago I purchased my first GEC knife--a lovely #48 Tidioute Dogleg Jack in amber jigged bone. I really like it and have been carrying it every day since. The knife is lovely and well made and I'm sure I'll be adding many more GEC knives in the future. However, there is a very minor detail that makes me a little fussy. (Full disclosure, prior to reading these forums, I doubt I would have ever even noticed this issue.) Where the bolster meets the bone on one corner, the bolster sticks ever so slightly above the bone. It's nearly impossible to see, but running your finger over it, you can feel where the bolster corner sticks above the scale. There's no way I'm sending it back because it's such a minor issue, but I'd like to fix it.

I'd just like to sand it down so it's even. I really like the knife so I don't want my efforts to fix this to damage it. I assume I can just grab a few grades of sand paper and delicately sand the offending corner, but I'm not certain. I don't want the bolster or the bone to look all sanded up when finished.

So, what's the best way to fix this? What grit should I plan on starting and ending with? All advice will be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I've encountered this issue on several of my GEC knives. I think that it is a byproduct of the buffing process at the factory where the bone gets worn down faster than the metal bolster while in contact with the buffing wheel. Regardless of my speculative theories, though, I tend to approach the issue with some silicon carbide wet-dry automotive sandpaper (it's the black stuff).

Normally I start with 200 grit and work my way throug 400, 800 and 1000 grit. Then I finish off the bolster with some buffing compound on a cloth or a powered buffing wheel. I normally mask of the bone and I use thin strips of sandpaper glued down to a stiff backing to essentialy make little tiny files. I have had pretty good success with old credit cards or grocery store membership cards cut in to thin straight strips. I use double sided scotch tape to adhere the sand paper to the plastic card backing. Then I take my time and check my work after every several passes.

Nickel silver is actually pretty easy to work with. Just take your time and check your progress often.

-nate
 
robot37 said:
... I use thin strips of sandpaper glued down to a stiff backing to essentialy make little tiny files. I have had pretty good success with old credit cards or grocery store membership cards cut in to thin straight strips. I use double sided scotch tape to adhere the sand paper to the plastic card backing.
Click to expand...

Nate,

Thanks for this excellent tip! There have been a couple spots I've wanted to reach carefully on other projects (knife kick, etc.) and the closest idea I've had so far has been craft sticks-- and they've proven too thick for what I have in mind.

A cut-down credit card should work well. :thumbup:

~ P.
 
Hey pertinux, wasn't it you that rubbed out a nasty nick in a bolster with some leather or something like that?

Do you think that would work in this situation?
 
I have used the sandpaper method, then followed it up with a loaded strop to bring the polish back.

I have not specifically addressed any bolster/bone fit issues though. (my normal bolster work is to clean up marks from tightening pivots).
 
I've found that the DMT diamond paste works very well for the finer aspects of polishing. Just put a dab on the effected area after your done with the sandpaper and work it in with a cloth.
 
Railsplitter said:
Hey pertinux, wasn't it you that rubbed out a nasty nick in a bolster with some leather or something like that?

Do you think that would work in this situation?
Click to expand...

Sure was!

7113127467_5c619bee66.jpg


Although, when it came down to it 0000 steel wool was even more effective (or at least, faster), followed by more leather.

The final result can be seen at the very right of this picture:

7311500014_8b05f20d2b_c.jpg


However, I proceeded based solely on the good advice of people here, and with only my own knife at risk.

I can't quite visualize what the OP is seeking to address, and even if I could, wouldn't begin to offer my newbie suggestions. Hopefully, he'll find good advice here from others, the way I continually do. :thumbup:

~ P.
 
Thanks for all the help. I'm going to give it a go and will post my results.
 
Success!

I got a couple of mixed grade packs of sandpaper from an auto shop that had grits ranging from 320 to 2500. I gradually worked through all the steps until the offending corner was smooth. I then got some Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish and an old cotton shirt and finished off with a bit of polish. It looks good as new and the bolster is now completely flush with the bone.

Thanks for the help.
 
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