How to compensate for angle variations along blade in guided sharpening?

[mszs]

This is a newbie question.

As far as I understand: With systems like Tsprof, Edge Pro, Wicked Edge, Madedge the arm is anchored at one point and if the blade would be completely straight then we'd get the same angle along the entire blade. But if the blade is not a straight line then on those parts that reach forward more there is a lesser angle than on those parts that do not reach as far forward from the jig. I hope the diagram better explains my question.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KncrScqO6y2sENMS4J49821MSJyQ6NgB/view?usp=sharing
The intended angle on the blade is 19.8°. The tip is set back from the edge by 5mm and the angle on the tip would be 20.17° if measured perpendicular to the straight part of the edge. That's not that much. But the edge at the tip has an angle in this example of 36.87° relative to the straight part of the edge. It then seems that the angle at the tip measured perpendicular to the edge at the tip would be 24.66° or almost a 5° difference to the straight part of the edge.

So, is this an appropriate model of what goes on? And if it is, how do you compensate for it?

 

[cbwx34]

This is a newbie question.

As far as I understand: With systems like Tsprof, Edge Pro, Wicked Edge, Madedge the arm is anchored at one point and if the blade would be completely straight then we'd get the same angle along the entire blade. But if the blade is not a straight line then on those parts that reach forward more there is a lesser angle than on those parts that do not reach as far forward from the jig. I hope the diagram better explains my question.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KncrScqO6y2sENMS4J49821MSJyQ6NgB/view?usp=sharing
The intended angle on the blade is 19.8°. The tip is set back from the edge by 5mm and the angle on the tip would be 20.17° if measured perpendicular to the straight part of the edge. That's not that much. But the edge at the tip has an angle in this example of 36.87° relative to the straight part of the edge. It then seems that the angle at the tip measured perpendicular to the edge at the tip would be 24.66° or almost a 5° difference to the straight part of the edge.

So, is this an appropriate model of what goes on? And if it is, how do you compensate for it?

You adjust for it by where you clamp the blade, in relation to the belly/tip area. See the diagram on this page...

https://support.wickededgeusa.com/p...he-length-of-longer-blades-on-the-wicked-edge

... you can mark the edge with a Sharpie and move it back and forth to find the ideal spot.

(I'm not sure if you're diagram is accurate).

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

It's not the curve in the blade but rather the taper as you near the tip that throws off a guided system.

 

[mszs]

You adjust for it by where you clamp the blade, in relation to the belly/tip area. See the diagram on this page...

https://support.wickededgeusa.com/p...he-length-of-longer-blades-on-the-wicked-edge

... you can mark the edge with a Sharpie and move it back and forth to find the ideal spot.

(I'm not sure if you're diagram is accurate).

Thanks for the link!

I had not considered that the difference in angle might actually be desirable depending on applications.

 

[000Robert]

As cbwx34 mentioned, your sharpie is your best friend. Here are a couple of photos of my Kershaw Launch 1 that I recently sharpened on my WE130. The first one is my setup and the second is the result. I had to take a photo of it a minute ago because I forgot to after I sharpened it. I have been using it for stuff but you can still see the edge good, and it's still sharp. I reprofiled it to 19dps with a toothy 800 grit finish.