How to control temp in coal forge

M

mihaelx

Joined
Dec 22, 2023
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I have 26C3 which requires soaking at 800-820 C for 10 minutes for the best heat treat. Im using my homemade "forge" (hardwood charcoal with weakish airblower that can get it way past 800C).
I put my knife inside of a rectangular pipe i made so it evenly heats, and it works great, even everytime. I can control when it gets to 800.
My question is how can i keep it at that temp without going too hot
(I dont have a thermometer)
I know salt melts at 800, but how to keep it at 800-820 for 10 mins....
 
Short answer - you can't.

We have had many threads on heat control in a forge and there is just no way to equal a HT oven. However, if you want to use a forge, you have to learn when it becomes non-magnetic and how to read the colors once there. 10 minutes is FOREVER when trying to keep the blade at one temperature this way.
In a coal forge the blast gate and blower are how to throttle it back, but coal is very tricky and unforgiving. I have merely turned my head to say something and come back to a Forth-of-July sparkler knife.
Gas forges can be regulated to run more even. A TC can read the temp and help keep the blade at the desired temp. Even a gas forge is hard to control for a long time. You can build a special gas forge with better control. See Karl Andersen's posts and video about his vertical forge in the W2 thread.
 
26c3 might not be the best steel to use in your situation, it will be extremely difficult if not impossible to hold the blade with the accuracy needed without an electric kiln. Do you have access to an alloy similar to 1075/c70? Or 80crv2? These might be better options for HT in a coal forge.
 
running bird said:
26c3 might not be the best steel to use in your situation, it will be extremely difficult if not impossible to hold the blade with the accuracy needed without an electric kiln. Do you have access to an alloy similar to 1075/c70? Or 80crv2? These might be better options for HT in a coal forge.
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No im trying to do a hamon and my ass just wont give up hahah
 
If you are trying for a hamon in 26C3 you want to lower the temp to 785°C. Go for an even heat throughout the blade and quench.
 
Addictive is the word for it. Even a weak hamon gets a dance when it shows as you pull the blade from the etch tank. A wispy hamon wakes the neighbors with your whoops and hollers.

DON'T look at a Japanese book on hamon or you may consider your life worthless and your forging and knife skills a waste of time. Those images are insane and I bow to the people who can create them.
 
mihaelx said:
No im trying to do a hamon and my ass just wont give up hahah
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Also I’m not sure how cost prohibitive shipping would be to Croatia from the US but low manganese 1075 from New Jersey Steel Baron may be a good option for you too. Very good for hamons with the benefits of 1075 as far as heat treating.
 
running bird said:
Also I’m not sure how cost prohibitive shipping would be to Croatia from the US but low manganese 1075 from New Jersey Steel Baron may be a good option for you too. Very good for hamons with the benefits of 1075 as far as heat treating.
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1075 can get hamon????
I order 26C3 from GFS supplies, they have that, god dammit i ordered it just yesterday
 
mihaelx said:
1075 can get hamon????
I order 26C3 from GFS supplies, they have that, god dammit i ordered it just yesterday
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You can probably get a good one on regular 1075 as well, I haven’t tried. Not sure how much different it would be than NJSB’s 1075
 
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