How to Convex a Flat Grind Blade

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gtrplr42

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Jan 2, 2014
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I have a Becker BK7 and find that I don't use it since purchasing my Bark River Bravo 1. The main reason, other that I just love the Bravo1, is that I'm not a huge fan of the flat grind. I did some light batoning with it and the edge did not hold up at all. it now has several small chips and even a rather large flat spot. I was very disappointment, especially considering all the hype about how "indestructible" the Becker knives are supposed to be. I think I would like to make it into a convex grind to see if that will allow it to hold up a bit better. I am just curious how to do this property? or if it is something I should even do at all?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
gtrplr42 said:
I have a Becker BK7 and find that I don't use it since purchasing my Bark River Bravo 1. The main reason, other that I just love the Bravo1, is that I'm not a huge fan of the flat grind. I did some light batoning with it and the edge did not hold up at all. it now has several small chips and even a rather large flat spot. I was very disappointment, especially considering all the hype about how "indestructible" the Becker knives are supposed to be. I think I would like to make it into a convex grind to see if that will allow it to hold up a bit better. I am just curious how to do this property? or if it is something I should even do at all?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

Yeah don't believe the hype. Beckers are decent knives but they're still a low to mid level production knife with common steel. That being said I've never had a problem with the type of grind when batoning. In fact the only knife I've had edge damage on was a convexed bark river but that was because it was ground too thin. I guess more details of what happened would be in order as I HIGHLY doubt the 7 was ground too thin as every knife of that type I've ever seen has been on the too thick side. Aside from custom work. Or you could go over to the Becker sub-forum. Lots of reprofiling threads as a lot of people aren't too happy with the factory edge.
 
By convexing you are making it thinner so it will not help with your issue.
 
You could convex just the edge, which will widen and thicken the bevel a little bit.
I find a 1x30 with trizact belts then loaded leather belts works great on larger thicker blades.
OR you can can go the old fashioned sandpaper and a mousepad path.
 
tjiscooler said:
You could convex just the edge, which will widen and thicken the bevel a little bit.
I find a 1x30 with trizact belts then loaded leather belts works great on larger thicker blades.
OR you can can go the old fashioned sandpaper and a mousepad path.
Click to expand...

Only if you are using a wider/steeper angle. Convexing in itself is just changing the shape of the bevel, everything still relies on the angle sharpened at.
 
Not really sure what happened to be honest. I batoned on top of another chuck of log so the blade would not go into the ground. The only thing I can figure is that one of the logs have several hard knots that were quite hard to get through. However, it still seems like the blade should have held up better. I've subjected my $15 mora to just as much abuse and have not had a problem.
 
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