how to cord wrap?

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Nov 10, 2004
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i have a busse pbf that i would like to cord wrap. i know strider's site has basic instructions, but are there any other resources available? i know there are mebers who will do it as a service, but i would like to learn. thanks
 
i was gonna suggest the strider-method on their website, but you already found that.....

one thing i picked up lately from someone on the forum is that, if you have stretchy cord, it helps to soaken it wet first. that way you can wrap it tightly
 
turks-head-knot-how-to.jpg


i learned how to do a turkes head knot from that image, taken from the ashley book of knots. after a while i got better at it, and was able to do things of this nature - (the two larger pbf's arent as nice as i wanted them to be, but they are vey functional. i had to rewrap the 6" 3 times, and overall it was taking something like 26 hours to finish it, and it was seriously killing me... i just wanted to get it right, but kept second guessing myself on wich way to turn the paracord so it wouldnt twist in the weave)


note that the paracord shell is done in a turks head knot as well. you see it more often then you might think. it is excellent at maintaining weave patern regardless of how much it is stretched or distroted.
ice-pick-wrap-supa-close.jpg


busse nuclear ice pick
ice-pick-with-wrap.jpg


short example on a round medium (blairs f-stix cut off)-
turkshead-ascrima.jpg


the best ive ever done (busse 4" pbf)-
busse-pbfs-wrapped-4inch_inhand.jpg


not nearly as good, but seriously, tighter and more secure then it is possible to get a strider style wrap. so tight infact, that it is not possible to manuever the cord around the weave to help make a more even looking weave without actually stripping the cord with the pliers. its not possible to remove or shift the weave by hand on the 2 larger ones. once youve worked with the turks head for a while, you'll be able to see a few of my mistakes. i tighteened excessively on the second round of picking up slack, so that the last line in the weave was left bulging out of the weave on the 6", and the last 2 lines of the 6" were that way. on several of them, all it requires is to pick the cord up and move it a little to maintain an even weave appearance, but the cord is so tight (or twisted :(, wich is one of the main concernes you'll have after doing a few of them) that you simply cant move it without accidentally cutting it... they could have been done better - but it would have taken me another week to redo them, and i wanted to get them sent out as quickly as possible. i had already had them for about 2 weeks...

busse-pbfs-wrapped.jpg


busse-pbfs-wrapped2.jpg
 
great tips. i love that trukes wrap. but how do you determine the length of the cord to use?
 
That's some nice Turk's Head work. I do those too, but haven't ever wrapped a knife handle with them; I mostly put them on walking sticks, bos, and kayak paddles. Most of the ones I do are not super complex, but that Ashley pic you posted looks like a 16 lead 3 bight specimen -- that's the most complex one I know how to tie, and let me tell you, they're not exactly easy.

Have you thought about doubling or tripling the patterns? You can even put multiple colors into the mix; just feed a second color through alongside the first strand after the knot pattern is established.

Blue skies,
-Jeffrey
 
unfortunately, i dont really know how to terminate the knot well :(

the entire thing is tight enough that were i to try to slip the cord under the wrap, or try to place the end strand through out the entire thing (like the first step in a strider style wrap, so that a strand is running down the length of the handle under the wrap), it would make a very noticable bulge, and be impossible to keep straight during the tightening process.

i basically do a simple single knot, as tight as i can get it, sew it shut, and then burn the ends so they mix with the rest of the paracord.


because of this, i havent tried doing any of the multi strand turks head, just because i dont know what to do with the ends :(


the knives in the photo are a forum members set of busse combat pure bred fighters. the 4", 6" and 8" models that were sold unwrapped.



as far as how much cord length is required, and how to judge it, i tend to do a really loose quick knot and then judge it from there. on these it took about 2 arms lengths (12 feet) fully tightened, but in an untightened state it was 14 or 15. i basically used 3 arms lengths and then cut off the remainder.


this specific knot had 5 spirals (5 x's total on the first set of rotations), so i guess the 4" pbf (wich had 4) would be a 16 lead, and the 6" and 8" would be 19... i need to run through my ashleys book to become better aquainted with the terms. id say that its an overal moderately easy knot to perform, but a very, very difficult knot to tighten.
 
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