How to deal with tiny rust spots?

B

Brett

Joined
Jan 18, 1999
Messages
101
I recently purchased a Benchmade Spike. It's in very good condition, except for a few tiny rust spots on the blade. It appears that there are some of these spots beneath the handles around the pivot where I cannot conventiently reach with a rag.

What's the best way to make sure the rust doesn't progress any farther? I can give the blade a good coating of Tuf-Coat, and maybe squirt some Tuf-Glide around the pivot area, but it's not clear to me this is the best strategy. Should I disassemble the knife? Is it necessary to <em>remove</em> the rust spots before coating with a protectant, or will a protectant stop the rust?

If I need to remove the rust, what's the best strategy? I have read recommendations of rubbing it out with steel wool, emery paper, or other abrasives, but that seems certain to mar the blade. I've also read that naval jelly works well. Suggestions?

Again, the rust spots aren't very noticable, so my only motivation in dealing with them is to make sure they don't spread.

-Brett


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brett@rahul.net
www.rahul.net/brett
 
Definitely keep using your Tuff-Cloth,
it is awsome stuff replenish it with tuff glide that should take care of it but if it doesnt then you should try useing the steel wool and removing em.
But the tuff coat should keep it from spreading.......
 
I've never used it, but I've heard that Flitz works very well. Maybe someone can elaborate on the merits of Flitz.

~Mitch
 
Brett; there is a wealth of information at this site about rust removal:
http://www.loganact.com/mwn/howto/rust/rust.html

Even a thin film corrosion inhibitor will not remove rust. You can only arrest its' progression (perhaps) by using rust preventatives. I suggest you remove the rust, than apply a TFCI, such as Tuf-Glide / Tuf-Cloth. Walt
 
I have had good luck with Flitz on these kind of spots. It does not remove scratches though in my experience. You need to go to sand paper to get out scratches.

To Walt Whelch thanks for the link.

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Roger Blake
 
In the case of this unfortunate Spike, to get at any rust in the pivot, the knife will have to be disassembled. I'd suggest returning it to Benchmade. They can disassemble the knife, polish off that rust, and reassemble it for you for a small fee.

The critical question here is what your intent is for this knife. It it's to be a user, then you can use a polish such as Fitz, or Mother's, or even go to a polishing compound using, for example, a Dremel tool or a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. You can even go to sand paper or a wire brush on a Dremel tool or bench grinder. Then, use a product such as Tuff-Cloth to prevent reoccurance.

If this knife is a collection piece, though, then you have to be much more careful. In this case, I'd start with WD40. Just soak the rusty areas in a bit of WD40 for about ten minutes and then use a paper towel to gently rub and try to remove the rust. Very often, the WD40 will penetrate the rust and loosen it up and then the paper towel is just abrasive enough to wipe it off. You may have to repeat this several times as each time removes a layer of rust. I've also had good results with a bathroom cleaner product called CLR (Calcium, Lime, and RUST remover). It's made to remove rust stains from plumbing fixtures. It also does a good job on blades without destroying the finish as polishing would. But, this is strong stuff, so be careful as it may attack some handle materials (though not the Spike).

BTW, if your Spike is an auto, then you've got an additional complexity. Disassembling it yourself is definitely more complex, but returning it to the factory may be impossible.



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.4cs.net/~gollnick
 
Walt is correct that Tuff Glide will preserve metals and inhibit corrosion but not remove. Try small steps as already mentioned before resorting to sending it back to BM. For hard to reach areas where some light spraying proves ineffective get some small pipe cleaners and apply some Flitz to those rust areas. Flitz does an excellent job of removing surface rust as I' ve been using it on BLUED firearms with NO ill effects on their finish. Several applications and repeated polishings may be needed. And some patience of course. Hope this helps a bit.

L8r,
Nakano
 
Old toothbrushes can be cut to fit most hard to reach needs. They are great, when used with a rust remover, for scouring out rust. Then the inhibitor, there are many great ones. Break-free is a great all purpose remover/inhibitor. A bit smelly, but works well on the guns also.

Brandon

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"You should never never doubt what nobody is sure about..."
 
The knife is a user, so it doesn't need
to be restored to showroom condition.

I think I'll probably try taking it apart,
despite Benchmade's warnings not to. How
hard can it be?
smile.gif


My primary concern is just to stop the rust
and prevent any more from forming. If
I can do this without making the blade
ugly, so much the better.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I had seen
that rust link previously, and it's very
informative.

-Brett


------------------
brett@rahul.net
www.rahul.net/brett
 
Flitz is a great product for removing rust and will leave a protective film to prevent reoccurrence. Follow up with the Tuf Coat. I would not recommend using steel wool or sand paper.
 
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