How to deep pit a blade

Milt

Milt

Joined
Nov 16, 2008
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I want to try pitting a blade prior to grinding. I tried Ferric Chloride, but it only turned grey. What could I use to etch some deep pits to resemble an old style knife?

Thanks,

Milt
 
Milt said:
I want to try pitting a blade prior to grinding. I tried Ferric Chloride, but it only turned grey. What could I use to etch some deep pits to resemble an old style knife?

Thanks,

Milt
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heat it up orange and pound on it with a hammer alot.

trust me the effect looks authentic :)
 
I use a small hammer where the face has a rough welded surface [random]
Heat the area you are working with an A/O torch and hammer the surface.

The blade below was treated in this manner.
DSC01686.JPG
 
Old style knives were finished pretty well. Even those by the local smith were decently finished by draw filing, and often hand polished. Leaving scale and hammer marks on work was a sign of poor workmanship, or a beginner.
 
I think there are two things being talked about in this thread.

1. - As forged finish. Leaving/putting hammer marks a blade.

2. - Antiquing or forced aging - deeply etching/pitting a knife to give it an aged look.

I was just talking to Stacy about the gun blue/bleach finish. I recently tried this on an O1 blade and it worked well at producing an aged affect. BUT - if you try this you need to be aware that poisonous gasses can be produced from the chemical reaction. So PPE are of utmost importance. Here's my O1 blade after the gun blue/bleach treatment:

IMG_4410-XL.jpg
 
I know I don't have a developed "eye" for knives but I often like seeing an "as forged" finish on knives. I'm wondering when it is done traditionally and what to look for to tell a good one from a bad job. Seems I see it most on Japanese kitchen knives and one piece knives (not sure of term - simple knives with no scales etc., sometimes a cord wrap handle). Hope this is adding to the OP's thread and not hijacking - if it's hijacking I'll post another thread - been wanting to ask this for a bit.
 
I think Shawn see's what is happening to this thread. I do not forge, but rather remove stock. I usually do all grinding after HT unless it is 3/16 or heavier. So, I want to pit a heat treated, profiled blade from the handle forward. Then I would grind the bevels leaving some of the pitting near the spine of the blade.
I would think that a strong acid might accomplish what I want to do. Ferric Chloride did not leave any pitting- just grey metal. But it looked rather nice in grey.

Milt
 
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