How to disassemble a Buck 110?

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drysideshooter

Joined
Dec 6, 2011
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244
I've searched and haven't found anything. Can anyone point me to a thread or tutorial on how to disassemble a Buck 110? I want to replace the factor scales on one.
 
The question you first must ask is do you want scale pins, or no scale pins. If you want scale pins it would be better to completely disassemble. If no scale pins are desired you can simply use a Dremel with a diamond ball and grind off the pin heads. Also grind off the Rocker pin head. I use a 1/8" punch and gently drive the rocker pin out. I use a 1/16" punch to drive the scale pins in just a little...then i use a small screwdriver to gently pry off the old scale. Sometimes when working on a beater I'm refurbing, if the bolsters also need work I'll just flat sand the knife with a full sheet of 100-120 grit Alox paper folded in 1/3 lengthwise...lay the paper on a flat board and rub the knife back & forth untill the heads are gone...takes less time than you would think. I like NO scale pins so at this time I cut the rocker pin to length an re-peen it in place... then I roughen up the liners and clean with alcohol. I like to mask off the well and the spine with scotch transparent tape. I also mask off the rear lower pin hole.( keeps the epoxy from getting into the works...NOTE!!! stay well away from the rocker pin with adhesive...Also a toothpick drop of gun oil onto the rocker pin will insure no epoxy bond there...

Make your scales so they fit nice & clean ( that's the fun part for me )

Here's a 112 apart to the point where it's ready to be re-scaled...rocker pin re-peened ( they are virtually twins the 112 and 110,;))


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And here is the same knife the next day :)

Have fun...it's only a knife :D


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You didn't state how old your knife was... If it is an early model, the scales could be pinned AND glued. If that's the case... Good luck! If it's a newer model then no worries...
 
sitflyer said:
You didn't state how old your knife was... If it is an early model, the scales could be pinned AND glued. If that's the case... Good luck! If it's a newer model then no worries...
Click to expand...

When did they switch from pinned and glued to just pinned? Just looking at my 112, probably from '74 or so, I can't tell if there is glue or not.
 
I was messing around with a new 110 that I ended up not really needing, and put some oak on it, end grain out.

buck110endgrain1.JPG


I didn't worry about the checkering cracks because I was experimenting. I might redo it though.

Now that I'm dangerous I've bought another new 110 and want to put some quarter-sawn oak on it for my BIL for xmas. I've also got walnut, cherry, and even some hickory I might like to try.

I was wondering, if I wanted to pin the stocks, where I might find the pins as I haven't figured out how to remove them without destroying both the pins and the stocks. I don't mind ruining the current stocks but think it would be a sin to do that to ebony should I decide to try an older 110. The methods I've read on removal of the pins, ie sawing the top off with a dremel or drilling them out didn't work for me. Thanks for any tips you guys might have.
 
axesbold...That's a nice looking 110...I like that effect!...
I'm looking into brass Escutcheon pins, available in hardware stores, for the scale pins...currently I have a pack of 18guagex5/8" and the shanks are too thin...I'm going to search for a thicker guage to fit the holes better. The heads look pretty good. Rocker pin and Bolster pins can be found at any knife maker supply house.
 
axesbold said:
I was messing around with a new 110 that I ended up not really needing, and put some oak on it, end grain out.

buck110endgrain1.JPG


I didn't worry about the checkering cracks because I was experimenting. I might redo it though.

Now that I'm dangerous I've bought another new 110 and want to put some quarter-sawn oak on it for my BIL for xmas. I've also got walnut, cherry, and even some hickory I might like to try.

I was wondering, if I wanted to pin the stocks, where I might find the pins as I haven't figured out how to remove them without destroying both the pins and the stocks. I don't mind ruining the current stocks but think it would be a sin to do that to ebony should I decide to try an older 110. The methods I've read on removal of the pins, ie sawing the top off with a dremel or drilling them out didn't work for me. Thanks for any tips you guys might have.
Click to expand...

axesbold....I really like the looks of that...great job!! :thumbup:

sitflyer....thanks for the tutorial, but I have one question. Why do you only cover the existing bottom rear handle pin hole to keep adhesive from flowing through and not all three pin holes??
 
When the epoxy is set up but still a little soft I go in with a #11 blade and cut the little balls of oozed epoxy flush with the inside liner. In my mind the epoxy that fills the hole will give a little extra grab...
 
Thanks guys and thanks for that info sit. I'll look into those handle pins you mentioned. Please keep us informed on how they work out for you... Thanks again!
 
These knives look great. Might try this sometime.
One question about the wood though. Is it "normal" wood or is it stabilised?
 
The wood I use is kiln dried. I'm thinking that's what you mean by stabilized? It has been brought down to a stable moisture content. I finished mine with linseed oil, but a Polyurethane might be better.
 
axesbold said:
The wood I use is kiln dried. I'm thinking that's what you mean by stabilized? It has been brought down to a stable moisture content. I finished mine with linseed oil, but a Polyurethane might be better.
Click to expand...
Kiln drying is just a faster and more controlled environment for bringing the moisture content down. Unfortunately it does not stabilize the wood, as it will continue swell and shrink based on the surrounding humidity. Stabilizing wood as madmath mentions involves impregnating the wood with resin under vaccuum conditions. This renders the wood unable to (or significantly lessens the wood's ability to ) absorb water from the surrounding air. Or a sweaty hand.
Based on the grain direction you've used, you may be in for some interesting movement over time. But that's part of the fun of woodworking!
 
Thanks for that info Ronnie.... good stuff.. That probably explains why I never see end grain used like this. It's also very hard to work end grain that thin without cracking and splitting it. You're right... it'll be interesting to see how it holds. I would like to try pinning it because if it doesn't work out the epoxy will be a bear to deal with.
 
sitflyer said:
Here's a 112 apart to the point where it's ready to be re-scaled...rocker pin re-peened ( they are virtually twins the 112 and 110,;))
Click to expand...

Sitflyer and others,

Could you describe the method by which you repeen or repin the pivot?

I've been googling the net looking at tutorials but have not found one yet that clicks for me. I've got more questions than answers at this point!!

Sitflyer, thanks for the pm regarding the thinned 112 (man, that's a stunner and I *am* going to make me one). The google search landed me in this thread and thought it better to put my follow up questions here.
 
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