How to disassemble/assemble a 112

C

cnedeer

Joined
Oct 7, 2009
Messages
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Hey ya'll. I've been lurking here for a while but this is my first post. I have an older 112 I am trying to "spruce up" a little but can't seem to find a good tutorial on how to disassemble it. I understand there is some work involved (with pins etc) but feel I am willing to give it a go.

Maybe a schematic or something?

Thanks in advance.
 
I wouldn't take it apart if I were you just to for a "spruce up" job. It a riveted and pinned knife and they never are quite the same when put back together.

For Cleaning the inside:
I've had good luck with Birchwood Casey "Gun Scrubber" Solvent/Degreaser. It comes in a spray can with a tube like WD40 and I like blowing the inside out with that. I think it works really good. I then follow with Outer's Gun Oil which is a none gumming oil.

A 400 grit sandpaper on the brass will take out the light scratches. Follow that with a 00000 cloth and then Brasso and you should be real happy with the results.

If you are determined to break the knife apart you'll need a 1 ton arbor press to do it cleanly. But you'll likely never get the original fit and finish back on that pivot pin. It was slightly compressed in the original fitting and won't go back in just perfect (or so I have found).

Some of the other guys have a clear sided knife that show the internals for the lockback mechanism. I'm sure they will be along shortly.

Again, don't do it if you just trying to clean it up.
 
Flatlander. Thanks a bunch. I should be more specfic in that I plan on putting some new scales on. A pic of a clear sided knife would be worth a million right now.

I hate to loose the awesome "fit" the knife has now. It is one precision lock.
 
welcome to buck forums
yes there are number of folks that are inclined to tinker..
take the blade out you will need a new bearing..
scales are not so bad.. i have put rubber grips on several
note once you do any home tinkering the warranty is void
that said you can use a razer knife to slip under the wood
then use larger wedge blades as you get more space
you will get to were the rivets will pull out or you will
be able to cut them between the wood and brass
then it is a mater of fitting and epoxying on what ever you want..
 
cnedeer said:
Flatlander. Thanks a bunch. I should be more specfic in that I plan on putting some new scales on. A pic of a clear sided knife would be worth a million right now.

I hate to loose the awesome "fit" the knife has now. It is one precision lock.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum.

How old is this 112 you are going to "mangle", as it is sometimes called here :) and what kind of scales are you planning on putting on it?

Some old 112's might be worth a lot more than what you will have after you install new scales.

Some of the folks scarf up 110's off ebay on the cheep in order to experiment. There are numerous threads about this if you can find them.

And,,,it is required to post pics when you finish :D:D
 
How about a description at least ?

What does tang stamp say ? How many scale rivets ? Nail nic ?
How much blade gone, etc. ?

300Bucks ( But since most talk is 112 I am going by 412Bucks)
 
Flatlander1963 said:
It a riveted and pinned knife and they never are quite the same when put back together...But you'll likely never get the original fit and finish back on that pivot pin. It was slightly compressed in the original fitting and won't go back in just perfect (or so I have found).
Click to expand...

I guess it is all about the time & effort put into it...I've seen production line Buck 110's that were worse looking/fitment than the knives put together by some of the manglers here...and the finish on some of the knives here is simply amazing...(I'm thinking specifically of Redrumm's stone scaled 110's, but there are others here who know their way around a buffing wheel)... :D

After the first four or five 110's/112's you take apart & stick back together, you get a feel for what you're doing...The arbor press, and a set of short pin punches to punch out the pins, is pretty much a must, at least as far as I've found...making up a jig with holes where the pins are helps a lot, too...

As for the pivot pin...None of mine have had problems, but then I'm not a knifemaker; my background is in machine tooling, and I approach problems differently than someone who actually knows what he is doing... :p;)
 
Wow guys, thanks for all the responses. The 112 that is mine since it was new is a 1991 model in mint condition.....well all except for the broken blade tip. :D It is already on it's way to Idaho. I picked one up off fleabay (that arrived just today) that obviously had a broken blade that was ground down. It is in terrible shape (both the blade and body) and that will be my first "mangelee". I am gonna contact Buck tomorrow and see what a new blade will run me and most likely it too will be enroute to Idaho. From what I can gather it is an 81 to 86. I'll take some before pics for sure.

All I really want to do is take out the dings, new scales and maybe some file work. I'm pretty new so we'll see how it goes.

Thanks again for all the help already. Amazing!
 
cnedeer said:
Thanks again for all the help already.
Click to expand...

There *are* pictorial progressions of several knives being re-scaled/re-bladed/etc here in the Buck Forum, but they are buried in the thousands of threads here...If you're a Gold or higher member with Search privileges, you can hunt them out... :)
 
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