How to dome pins?

erik markman

erik markman

Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
1,352
I want to try to dome the pin in my handles but how do I get the nice dome on them?
I use 1/8 th nickelsilver as pinmaterial.
 
Peen the pin heads on top of the scales. Then buff in all directions to smooth them. this is how raised, domed pins were done commercially on cutlery.
 
Use a jewelers ball pein hammer or any very small ball pein, I use a 1.5 oz and 2 oz hammer most. The ball must be polished to a mirror finish so it will leave the pin mirror finished.

I like to leave about half the pin diameter sticking up, make sure it is flat and square to the pin. I cut it long and file it down. Use light glancing blows around the perimeter of the pin. It does not take very much force, but it does take lots of light taps with the hammer. Just keep tapping in circles around the pin. I like to make sure the handle material is finished and buffed before doming, or you will be left with a ring of unfinished handle around the pin. Some people like to buff the pins some don't.


-Xander
 
For some reason, I had it in my head that a drill press and some kind of "domming bit" were used for this.
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.
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Guess not. :o

-Peter
 
If I don't want a mechanical bond, I just measure my pins to exact length, leaving enough for a dome on both ends, cut them and dome them on the grinder with 220, slack belt cleanup with 400, then buff to mirror. I re-check for length after the 220 doming step. I've used this way in the centers of gnarly sambar tapers with good results.
 
Jantz, who else?!

They call the bit a headspinner. Works for 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" pins, its a 1/4" shaft I believe so it wont fit in a dremel, but should fit a rotozip and obviously a drill or drill press.


-Xander
 
You wouldn't want to run a headspinner at a rotozip speed. Use a drill press and slow speed. Firm even pressure will get a good head. A drop of baby oil or water is OK as a lube if the handle material is good with that.
 
I saw a technique years ago where an allen set screw was used in a drill press. There is a small dimple in the end of screw that makes a perfect dome. For a 1/8 pin it might be a 3/16 screw. Good industrial hardware stores sell small kits of different sizes.
 
I bought a head spinner from Jantz (I think) a few years ago. I have used it twice. Unsatisfactory results both times.

Now, I just use my little hammer and it works fine.

Robert
 
Robert Dark said:
I bought a head spinner from Jantz (I think) a few years ago. I have used it twice. Unsatisfactory results both times.

Now, I just use my little hammer and it works fine.

Robert
Click to expand...

Same results for me with one from Texas Knife Supply. Bad results and the spinner ended up softer than the 416 rod. It was ruined AND I didn't get good results. Nearly ruined a a good knife too. I'm glad this thread came up, because I've been wanting to give it all another try.
 
You can also peen normally and use a cup shaped punch to round the heads.
There are also cup burrs.
 
So I have domed two in the last two days....I learned some things! I am using 1/8" 416 pins that I left .040 proud of the handle. Filed square. Using the smallest ball pein hammer I had, which is WAY too large at 8 oz. I peinned them with the ball end, then went to my drill press with a home made spinner made from 3/8" mild pencil rod. Not ideal, I know, but that is what I had. Cleaning and doming the pin worked well until I had 100% contact between the pin and the spinner. I went back and filed the head flat again, and went back to the spinner. This got me to where I wanted to be, then I buffed with white rouge and a lose cotton wheel. I think it turned out pretty good, for me at least. The mild spinner eats away pretty fast, but if you file it to the right depth each time, it seem to work. I will order some w1 drill rod next time I order, but untill then this will work. Oh ya, before I buffed it, I hit it on my deburring wheel to help out the buffing process. Here it is,
38D2A0F1-F1FF-4E03-B57E-E3010201DE75-192-00000062A72781A2_zps94689366.jpg
15116BC1-8931-4DB7-84EF-08E684A721DC-192-00000062A2C8AA98_zps782e39d2.jpg

Well I guess the cell phone don't get much closer then that. Other then the bad pics, what do you think?
Thanks
Cody
 
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I use a mini-version of a head spinner dozens of times a day ( hundreds of times some days). I occasionally use its big brother to do the pins on Stag handles.

When setting diamonds, the excess metal on the prongs is smoothly and evenly made into a round ball by using a beading tool, It can be done by hand with a beading burnisher, or much faster and evener with a rotary cup burr and a flexshaft. These cup burrs come in any size you would want for knife pins. A 3mm cup burr would fit 1/8" pins. Use a Fordham or Dremel tool , wax lube, and slow speed. They come in several types of cuts, from coarse cut to fine cut and also a type called fast-cut. The basic ones should be stocked wherever you find Dremel tools and bits.

The head spinner used in a mill or drill press is the same principle. The enemies of these tools, from 1mm to 1/4" is heat. You may not realize it, but the heat from pressing down too hard, and especially running these fast will weld the cup to the pin....ruining one or both. Lubrication and slow speed are the trick...plus a bit of practice.
 
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